New Build - Choosing a Land Cruiser for Family Overlanding

[Northernlilywhite]

Thanks MPH, not sure if I necessarily need the E lockers from the 98/99's as ATRAC is likely to be enough for anything I am going to get into with the family. However if the right 98/99 pops up I am not going to discount it just for ATRAC. It really depends on the truck I guess. Also I think the LX 98/99 had ATRAC 2 years before the LC's right?

Thanks Creeper. I think I will likely not discount a car because of AHC but won't hunt down a specific year for AHC either. I do like the safety changes that came with the 2003+ plus the 5 speed trans, however the 2003+'s are pushing my budget a bit. I can probably do $15k but really wanted to do $10k. My plan however is to keep is simple and keep it streamlined.

If the family loves it after a year or two of pitching a tent next to the truck I may move to RTT but I am envisaging sliders, 285's and a 2 inch lift and the probably a second battery set up to run the fridge and charge the electronics. However I don't see myself moving to HD springs and aftermarket bull bar and bumpers and a HD winch anytime soon.

 

[Staggrlee]

I parsed the thread and much of this may be covered and I missed it. Safe Harbor Statement: I own a 2000 100-Series and have never owned an 80.

I was where you are in 2008 and torn between a '97 Anniversary Edition 80 and early 100 models.

I chose the 100 for engine with same/better gas mileage as the 80 Series 4.5l I6 with the 100's 4.7L V8, and more power, better brakes, more room, rear AC
I sacrificed the rear e-locker in the 98/99s for the 4-pinion front diff in the 2000+. The A-Trac more than makes up for the lack of the locker. It works really well if you let it...

The only downside is the IFS but there's been ample comment on solid-axle vs IFS. And power, never enough power -- but the 80 won't solve that for you. Even the 4.7L can get wheezy above 7k feet when fully loaded out.

As far as years go, you start getting nicer features (DVD Nav, 5sp, CVT w/marginally higher-output engine etc) post '02, but then you also start getting into more points of failure, costly systems prone to failure like secondary air injection pumps, even more electronics etc. The slee link, and wikipedia, have good details on what features appeared/disappeared on what years as I'm sure you're aware.

Things to be aware of:
The headlights suck
The 2UZ is an interference engine. Do the timing belt regardless unless it's only just been done. Don't carry a spare. If it breaks the last thing you'll be replacing is the belt. Literally.
Carry heater hose t-fittings. They're small and will disable you if they go
There are many compatible relays that can be scavenged from non-essential systems for a spare if needed for something critical
If you install a cargo barrier it is possible to accidentally set the rear child-proof lock if the hatch closes and the button is hit, locking yourself in the back of the truck
Learn how to do trailside hack to enable free wheeling the front hubs so you can drive out with a locked center if you lose your front diff, and carry appropriate tools
Spare ujoints. Small essential item. If you have sufficient slack in the existing ones replace them and carry the old ones.
Have someone check the headers for cracks. Very common but annoying non-fatal problem usually cured with Thorley headers but that's expensive
If the starter seems even a little bit funky move on to another truck. The contacts go and although they don't fail outright without some warning, it's another expensive fix since you have to remove the entire intake assembly to get at it
If you lift it, get the diff drop or be prepared to do your CV boots in about 20-30K miles. Find a shop that's done one before, reindexing the torsion bars and/or installing new ones is a frustrating and time consuming process for someone who hasn't done them before.
Power door lock actuators are a weak link but inexpensive aftermarket actuators are available
The key shell remotes break. Get a lock-n-safe chipped key and just put the remote part on the key ring
Get airbags in the rear shocks and progressive rate rear springs. Good combo of comfort, added load capability and ride height adjust-ability so you don't have to pogo around on HD springs with an empty truck
And last but not least if you're not doing bumpers, get at least one real frame-mounted recovery point, preferably one front and rear. There's nothing on there but tie-down points.

 

[temple]

Check ih8mud.com for all your landcruiser needs. Don't forget the lx 450 and lx 470. I found them to be in better condition and with lower miles for the same money. Better leather, and stereo too. Other than that, it is the same car.

 

[2025 deleted member]

I have never owned either one, but I would get the 100 for your stated use.

 

[SmoothLC]

IIRC, more LXs were sold vs. LCs over the course of the 100 series MYs.

 

[jeff_wright]

Great info on the 100 series trucks! Is there a negative to the 03+ navigation? Also how is the reliability of the ATRAC system?

I hate to consider betraying the Queen...

 

[SmoothLC]

As mentioned above - search the 100 series section of IH8MUD. Lots of good info. over there.

Here's a sample thread on AHC - The Lowdown on the AHC suspension?

I think the general consensus is that if you have it, just keep maintaining it if you use it or replace it when it goes out if you don't.

 

[Northernlilywhite]

I agree with Smooth from what I have read, not first hand experience... YET! Everybody seems to ignore whether a truck has AHC and just maintains until failure then rips it out and throws in a standard shock and spring system. It is a great feature from what I gather, a bit like the air suspension on disco's, but the problem isn't it's capability but its reliability.

 

[Rezarf <><]

I parsed the thread and much of this may be covered and I missed it. Safe Harbor Statement: I own a 2000 100-Series and have never owned an 80.

I was where you are in 2008 and torn between a '97 Anniversary Edition 80 and early 100 models.

I chose the 100 for engine with same/better gas mileage as the 80 Series 4.5l I6 with the 100's 4.7L V8, and more power, better brakes, more room, rear AC
I sacrificed the rear e-locker in the 98/99s for the 4-pinion front diff in the 2000+. The A-Trac more than makes up for the lack of the locker. It works really well if you let it...

The only downside is the IFS but there's been ample comment on solid-axle vs IFS. And power, never enough power -- but the 80 won't solve that for you. Even the 4.7L can get wheezy above 7k feet when fully loaded out.

As far as years go, you start getting nicer features (DVD Nav, 5sp, CVT w/marginally higher-output engine etc) post '02, but then you also start getting into more points of failure, costly systems prone to failure like secondary air injection pumps, even more electronics etc. The slee link, and wikipedia, have good details on what features appeared/disappeared on what years as I'm sure you're aware.

Things to be aware of:
The headlights suck
The 2UZ is an interference engine. Do the timing belt regardless unless it's only just been done. Don't carry a spare. If it breaks the last thing you'll be replacing is the belt. Literally.
Carry heater hose t-fittings. They're small and will disable you if they go
There are many compatible relays that can be scavenged from non-essential systems for a spare if needed for something critical
If you install a cargo barrier it is possible to accidentally set the rear child-proof lock if the hatch closes and the button is hit, locking yourself in the back of the truck
Learn how to do trailside hack to enable free wheeling the front hubs so you can drive out with a locked center if you lose your front diff, and carry appropriate tools
Spare ujoints. Small essential item. If you have sufficient slack in the existing ones replace them and carry the old ones.
Have someone check the headers for cracks. Very common but annoying non-fatal problem usually cured with Thorley headers but that's expensive
If the starter seems even a little bit funky move on to another truck. The contacts go and although they don't fail outright without some warning, it's another expensive fix since you have to remove the entire intake assembly to get at it
If you lift it, get the diff drop or be prepared to do your CV boots in about 20-30K miles. Find a shop that's done one before, reindexing the torsion bars and/or installing new ones is a frustrating and time consuming process for someone who hasn't done them before.
Power door lock actuators are a weak link but inexpensive aftermarket actuators are available
The key shell remotes break. Get a lock-n-safe chipped key and just put the remote part on the key ring
Get airbags in the rear shocks and progressive rate rear springs. Good combo of comfort, added load capability and ride height adjust-ability so you don't have to pogo around on HD springs with an empty truck
And last but not least if you're not doing bumpers, get at least one real frame-mounted recovery point, preferably one front and rear. There's nothing on there but tie-down points.

Awesome post man.

 

[jhanley]

I own both, a 1996 (80 series) and 2000 (100 series). A couple misconceptions come to mind:
The 100 series has better fuel economy
Both my cruisers are in tip-top shape, and, both get horrible fuel economy. Over the last decade, I average approx. 13 mpg (mixed use) in both rigs. Highway, both around 17.
[I]The 100 series has more room[/I]
Ok, sure, a hundy is in fact larger, but, interior volume difference is negligible. Are you stuffing the thing from floor-to-ceiling? Probably not.
The 100 series is faster / quicker / than an 80
Again, the difference here is negligible. Both are turds. Unless you're towing, my 100 certainly wins in that department. If I drag raced my stock-tired landcruisers, the hundy might win by a car length. I never floor them anyways, MPG drops to 10.

Both have been equally reliable. Of course, ******t happens, nothing's perfect, although coming from a Disco, you'll be in Shangri-La.

My opinion, drive both. See which you like best. I'd compare em like this:

A 2002 Porsche 911 is faster, gets better MPG, has a better stereo, etc etc etc... than, a 1991 Porsche 911, but, the 1991 feels cooler (looks cooler, too). That's why I prefer my 80, it feels cooler, and, looks WAY cooler than a 100 (I'll admit, the older the 100's become, they grow on me aesthetically)

While I love my 100, it's semi boring to drive. The 80 hits all my senses.

Driving is emotional, don't just read the spec sheet. And, don't take advice from someone who's owned one, but not the other. Get on Ih8mud, there's a million of us who own both rigs....

 

[jhanley]

didn't mean to turn this into an "80 vs 100" thread, btw.

 

[temple]

btw, which porsche do you drive?

 

[jhanley]

ha, take a guess.....

 

[temple]

ha, take a guess.....

1991 911