I love the lift strap over anything else and feel it is one of the, if the, most safe operation of the Hi-Lift. I have a 4x10 wood beam cutoff (about 18" long I think) I use in the back of the truck for a jack platform in soft areas at times and for a jack-stand in soft areas as it provides such large surface area and stability. If I need to get the MaxTrax under the wheels or just get the wheels on high ground again, I use the beam laying flat as a base; even in mud and soft sand it works perfect for a solid base under the Hi-Lift.
In a tire change scenario, I use the 4x10 beam cutoff to set under the A-Arm when I jack the wheel up; again, the stability it provides is far greater than a jack stand in soft areas. I use the lift strap to get the blow-out wheel off the ground; the spare then goes under the frame and the 4x10 beam under the A-Arm (dual collapse safety). I then set the vehicle down on the beam as a jack stand to remove the Hi-Lift, and use it as a secondary support on the bumper, hit the lugs with the Milwaukee 18v impact, swap the spare and blowout under the frame, get the lugs back on and install the Hi-lift and complete the process in reverse order. The lift strap was a great addition to my kit many years ago and the tire change process has been my go-to safe operation for years and how I train others to do it. Will not work on solid split-rim steelies but I would expect it to work on the new Defender steelies so let us know.
My beam option works under the frame or under the A-Arm and the spare goes either place too; just depends on terrain and preference.
Happy you are dumping your well earned cash into someone else's new Defender; better be careful, you might be getting in line for one if you like it too much! hahaha
Here is one of the Nigeria NGO Team Members working tire changes during off-road mobility training prior to heading back to Africa.
Getting her Hi-Lift safety refresher and then she's on her own. One thing I've learned and teach with the lift strap is to butt the Hi-Lift base to the outboard edge of the tire before you start putting lifting force on the jack; doing this ensures the jack stays almost completely vertical and will not slip out or push the vehicle in a lateral motion. Notice the position of the base plate; it is about 1/2"-1" max away from the tire before jacking! Put the base in the same spot when lowering it and ka-boom, you're donski!
She places the jack under the bumper with holding pressure once the jack-stand is stable and before the wheel comes off. At this point, the jack is a secondary safety mechanism only.
Back to new Defenders; I'm sure some on here can't wait to see a new Defender on a jack someday soon!