Got the axle done 3500#, electric brakes, rear receiver hitch on, new floor with supports, new tires 35" and wheels. Still have several things to fab up including a top, and rear stabilizing jacks, lights, and surely other stuff.
My only advice is to get it back on the road for a shake down before you cut it up. This way you can see all of the little things needed for your particular setup.
My tailgate was badly cut-in before I got ahold of it. It took me a full day to fab up a strong setup.
It is nice to be able to add the slide out chuck box.
Just be ready for the sides to flex like crazy unless proper bracing is fab'ed in the build.
I had a great internal debate over whether to cut a tailgate in mine too. Just like you are hearing here, some love it some say don't. Convenience is nice. Some said structural rigidity would become an issue if you did...on and on.
What leaf springs did you use? Softer than the super stiff OEM? Even fully loaded I bounce more than I like, I think because of the stiff leaf springs.
I had the spring custom built. All trailer suppliers only had 24" springs. Triple A spring in Utah built these. they rated them at about 2400lb. total. I took the trailer on about a 30 mile trip around town and it pulled perfect, did 70 on the freeway and all good.
Light question. I bought some replacement lights online which are supposed to be like the stock factory. They are 24 volt. Does anybody know what bulbs I will need to convert to 12 volt. Part numbers would be wonderful. thanks
Sorry,I don't have the bulbs in front of me to give a part number. Simple way to attack that one is take the 24v bulb to your local auto parts store. Even the kid behind the counter won't be able to fubar this one.
Just match up the same size bulb in the 12 volt flavor. It really is just that easy. The 24 volt style is the oddball these days so the store should have plenty in stock.
Hope this helps.
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