New (Old 1998) Jeep TJ - lift options

[bshillam]

I have been reading about LCG Jeeps, lifts etc and have come to the conclusion that unless someone is close by and has the experience I don't think I want to saw away at my fenders. Ultimately I want to fit 33" under the 98. I will be off roading it but don't see spending $2k just in suspension. I'd like to pick up a kit for around $1k, maybe one of the short arms with new shocks. Heck new springs and shocks will probably make the Jeep ride nicer since both are original. I am not brand loyal - just looking for a good solid performer. Here's a few I found and thought they included quite a bit for a middle of the road system,
http://www.quadratec.com/products/1...oglemerchant&gclid=CIyp64T0zcQCFcWUfgod5pMAQg

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/procom...campaign=cse&gclid=CLiaqsz0zcQCFc9hfgodvwsAfA

http://www.extremeterrain.com/iron-...pla&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=&XTID=J16379

http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/Suspension/Superlift-Lift-Kit?set-vehicle=1

Another approach might be replacing the fenders with something that allows for more upper articulation. I am thinking though for the trails I have run having the body a few more inches off the ground too would be a benefit. There's a lot of stumps and rocks on the trails that can pass under a slightly lifted body than one at stock height. The last two Jeeps YJs I ran a 4" and found this to be nearly perfect for the trails.

Thoughts? I'd like to avoid a BB and BL - my feeling, with 170K on stock coils and shocks, (that have been beat on) it's time to replace to improve the ride.

 

[JeepSafariDigest]

"For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction" this holds true when one installs these types of lifts on the jeeps.. Sounds simple enough, throw on a set of new coils, shocks and you good to go.. I think a little more detail might be needed in this instance.. is it a IL4 or IL6 What's the current gearing on this?.. One thing I've learned while being here, is that EXPO's tend to stay within their means, use what they have and only upgrade if absolutely necessary.

 

[TripLeader]

I'm going to go with a kit from DPG Offroad when my budget allows.
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This is the one I have in mind.
http://dpgoffroad.com/products/old-man-emu-super-ultimate-tjlj-wrangler-kit/

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This one might be closer to the budget you set for yourself. I might end up with it myself if I can't swing the extra $1200.
http://dpgoffroad.com/products/old-man-emu-deluxe-tjlj-wrangler-kit/
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Replacing the fenders for more clearance is a good option, but very expensive. If you can find an AEV Highline kit someone stored or removed off their Jeep, it will run $2000+. Metalcloak fenders are in the same ballpark.

 

[jaxyaks]

Find some Junkyard fenders and hack them up. Just be aware with the TJ, that you may induce death wobble sooner rather than later unless you are very careful with your lift choice and replacing worn front end parts. Fender clearance and taller tires would slow this down a bit if you have the gears for it.

I learned the hard way about TJ lifts and ruined a perfectly capable LJ Rubi unlimited a few years ago....

 

[bshillam]

I understand about introducing elements that may or may not be necessary. However I have wheeled for years in the PNW and running much smaller than a 33" limits one on some of the trails. I am open to both cutting the current fenders or a quality lift. I am going to run 33x10.5, I have a 4.0L 5spd and am open to the idea that I might have to re-gear down the road. That's ok. I don't need or want a speed demon. The wife has the sports car for that. This is more or less get out into the woods, out into eastern Washington and enjoy spending time off the beaten path. I don't want or need a crawler, just something that is capable of enjoying the path along the journey. No 35,37,40" etc.
As far as death wobble is concerned, do lifts introduce this or do larger tires? Or is a both? I never experience any death wobble with 4" of lift and 33" on my prior Wranglers and CJs - but all prior were leaf springs.

 

[87Warrior]

As far as death wobble is concerned, do lifts introduce this or do larger tires? Or is a both? I never experience any death wobble with 4" of lift and 33" on my prior Wranglers and CJs - but all prior were leaf springs.

It has been my experience that death wobble is the result of one, two, or three things:
- New components move used, or 'worn in', components out of their sweet spot. Think of it like this, adding new coils to a suspension system that has 170K miles on it. Over that 170K miles everything has worn together and when you give the suspension a boost nothing is aligned correctly.
- New components remove part of the slack that the worn suspension system has. If you install new control arms (or just bushings), steering linkage and wheel bearings, the poor 170K mile trackbar with the slightest amount of wear will take all of the shifting forces the road (and Jeep) give to it.
- New components just wear out quickly or are not installed properly.

Since your TJ has 170K miles on it, you should probably budget to replace everything when you lift it. Primarily the wheel bearings, steering linkage (which is a good opportunity to upgrade to a V8 ZJ set up), trackbar (if your lift does not include one) and the control arm bushings (if your lift does not include new control arms). You will also need 3" of lift to clear a set of 33's without removing or relocating sheet metal. My TJ has about 3.25" of suspension lift and a 1" body lift. It clears 35's with no rubbing and factory fender clearances.

The first thing I would suggest is to ignore any 'kits' put together by manufactures. Build your own, exactly the way you want it. Don't be afraid of used parts if you are on a budget. In 2005 I started out with a fancy new Rubicon Express 'kit' on my TJ. Today, the only parts I haven't replaced from the original kit are the bump stop spacers! It is a Franken-lifted Jeep now, made up of components from about every manufacturer!

Since your goal is 33" tires, I would suggest doing a 2" suspension lift (spring, not spacer) and a 1" body lift. You should be able to avoid driveline modifications, but every Jeep is different. It is my suspicion that a motor mount lift and new U-joints would cure any driveline vibrations that my arise from a 2" suspension lift.

 

[bshillam]

This is the kind of feedback I was looking for, I'll make sure to replace the steering linkage, shock - all bushings, wheel bearings as well. Other parts that I should be paying attention to?

 

[jaxyaks]

This is the kind of feedback I was looking for, I'll make sure to replace the steering linkage, shock - all bushings, wheel bearings as well. Other parts that I should be paying attention to?

That's a pretty good start, if you get wobble after replacing those items it will make it a little easier to track down. The leaf sprung jeeps didn't have too much of an issue with wobble, the coils and short wheel base seems to be the magic formula. Mine started wobbling within 3k of changing stock set up. A lot of other solid front axle with coil sprung vehicles can also get DW, dodge trucks come to mind.

I totally understand the need to get a little more clearance, and there are a lot that lift without issues. Your requirements are a reasonable and sounds like you'll be able to overcome any issues. Hopefully you can nip it in the bud right off the bat, I wouldn't wish the frustration of dealing with death wobble on my worst enemy, it's that frustrating.

 

[cbking]

I didn't read through everything but if I were you I'd look into Metalcloak fenders and a small 2 inch lift. That would easily be good for 33s or even 35s but your axles wouldn't like 35's much. There expensive but would be well worth it if you wanna stay low cog.

 

[MOguy]

I would take CBKINGS advice and go this route or if you want to skip the fender modification add a 1" or so body lift and keep your stock fenders. If you keep you suspension lift at about 2" you probably will not have an issues with drive line angles. You can keep you stock drive line and control arms. If they are in good shape they will continue to serve you well. You can cheap out give up some performance and get a 2" budget boost or spend more and get a 2" susp lift and better performance. Either way you will want new shocks and don't cheap out here.

If you have the Dana 35 your axle will be a week link. If you keep your diffs open and go easy on the skinny pedal you should be fine. Re-gearing may need to be considered if you want to regain your lost performance when you go to bigger tires. That gets into more money and you may want to think about upgrading the Dana 35 and considering lockers or some other traction aid.

If you still want more clearance I would lock into a belly up but the you will be looking at drive and more susp modifications and $$$.

 

[VistaCruiser]

Ever think about a tummy tuck? Possible option C to gain clearance at the belly also, although I believe it involves some BL to accommodate. HTH

Sam

 

[MOguy]

There is nothing wrong with a small BL on a TJ. It gives you some room to do a few things.

 

[bwestfla]

I just installed the Zone 4.5 inch combo lift on my 98 TJ 4.0 5spd. The lift is a combo of 3in suspension, 1.25 inch body lift and 1in Motor mount lift. It rides like a dream with my 33's on it. Put 33x12.5x15in Duratracs under it. Did it in my garage by myself over 2 weekends. Decent instructions. Would highly recommend it. Go ahead and buy the adjustable track bar for the front. My steering and ball joints were fine. Get the hydro shocks and not the nitros if you go with the zone kit. Hydros are cheaper and ride better.

Only issue is that I have 3.07 gears and while doable, first gear is really tall now and 5th gear is not really used. I am in Florida and everything is flat so I think I can get away with more.