You are not wrong. It goes on the top of the control arm, on the sway bar bolt.
That would be on the front; the question is about the rear. The sway bar is attached to the lower control arm in the rear and you can't reach it with the limit straps. You can however reach the swaybar link, so in effect you are attaching to the lower control arm with my mounting, just through the link. Is the link strong enough to act as a limit strap? Fair question. I've broken a front link before but not a rear.
Dose this increase the ride height, if any at all?
No, the spacers have no effect on ride height. That is still controlled entirely by the wheel sensors and the computers. It does change where the strut rides in it's stroke, and if you are running a lift (via GAP IId, LLams, lift rods, etc) it will put you closer to the original travel. Arguably this would have the benifit of running the air bag pressures at closer to stock and increasing their longevity but I'm not sure about that. I do know it's primary goal is to prevent the tires from wedging hopelessly into the wheel wells when running 32"+ and that it does.
So if I understand correctly the stud snapped simply by removing the nut?? Makes me wonder how well these studs are going to hold up on trails with some of the more severe forces they'll see..
Yes, though I admit I put a lot of torque on it. I had to get it off anyway so I had nothing to loose at that point. It seemed to gall, similar to what I've seen happen with stainless if you don't use anti-seize. The style lock nut provided is a 'prevailing torque' nut. It gains it's locking force by having the last couple threads distorted so that they cut into the bolt as it's installed. They are designed to be single-use parts and not to be taken apart. While they have very good locking characteristics, I think this is the wrong application for them and they are one thing I would recommend Proud Rhino change. A standard nylock type nut would be better here I believe. Or you could just use normal nuts and some red lock-tight if you wanted to make an easy change with stuff you probably already have around the garage. They are M10x1.25 I believe.
Funny....I had my strap there I was told it was wrong by Lucky 8
This is what they wanted. He sent my pic back with the bolt circled in red and told me to turn the bolt around.
I tried this myself but didn't like it. I run a 3/4" wheel spacer (at least for now...may go away soon) and even with that spacer there is significant contact between the strap and wheel/tire when at full extension. It may not rub when the suspension is compressed, but a metal wheel rotating against a fabric strap....I don't like that at all.
Here are some pics I took where I test-fit the strap to the recommended nut
A few things to keep in mind here- 1st, this is at full droop so it is possible it wouldn't rub under normal compression. 2nd, I'm running 3/4" spacers so the problem would be even worse without them. 3rd, I have the tab clocked around to about 10:00 for increased clearance but normal loading will try to pull it back to near 12:00 and make contact worse yet.
I think the location I have chosen is better, though as I mentioned above it does put added stress on the swaybar end link. I don't think it's enough to break a link, but time will tell. The over-all travel limits look to be about the same or maybe slightly less (safer) in my location.
I'd love to hear from somebody at Proud Rhino or perhaps Lucky8 on their opinions. Did they try my location (sway bar link) and have problems? How are they avoiding excess rubbing of the strap in the 'recommend' location?
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I see xray123 used the rear-most spacer stud where i was on the front stud. That may gain a bit of clearance compared to what I tried, but would not be a huge improvement.
