The conversion is posted as a separate thread. Enjoy!:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=764533#post764533
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=764533#post764533
New project: The White Buffalo (Chevy Express AWD)
- Thread starter zuren
- Start date
Everything I think about putting in the van gets a weight consideration and if there is a way to make it lighter!
I'm trying to learn more about the H-chassis (AWD) that these vans are built on since it is different than the G-chassis (2WD). We installed a Hidden Hitch as well last week and it was supposed to be a direct bolt-on with hand tools. The frame inserts I received in the kit were too small for my frame rails (they were able to spin). Fortunately we were using an impact gun an could spin the nuts down but they either gave me the wrong inserts or the AWD vans have a wider frame. Does wider equal stronger therefore making it a 1500HD type platform?
Accrete
Explorer
Ramblin...
part of the "keeping it light" seems to be relative. When doing some prelims on number crunching for payloads it ran something like this:
1500awd @ ~2100 payload
1500 2wd@ ~2300
2500 2wd@ ~3200
2500 2wd Diesel @ ~2300
3500 2wd@ ~4100
3500 2wd Diesel @ ~3300
Since we had decided to go safe(awd) on the wet highway roads here in oregon there wasn't much choice(!) but our empty off road capable trailer only had 250-300lbs of _stuff_ added to its base weight for a week's journey (most of it was reusable like kitchen gear etc). And it isn't much of a design issue to create an interior of lightweight composits and such that will re-create the basic rear-bed (as platform/storage) and simple counter areas similar to an RB50 or RB54 SMB floorplan and come under 500 or so pounds for the interior. This is my second DIY van project so i'm speaking from my own experience, as the first one used corregated cardboard fiberglassed for walls/cupboard faces and spruce for framework. super light. Got the idea from "Composite Construction For Homebuilt Aircraft". So i'm hoping to come in at around 6000 and then add the 250-300 "payload" for a camping trip. Still coming in well under the 7300 max payload, since our weight-at-scales was a hair under 5200 last week.
part of the "keeping it light" seems to be relative. When doing some prelims on number crunching for payloads it ran something like this:
1500awd @ ~2100 payload
1500 2wd@ ~2300
2500 2wd@ ~3200
2500 2wd Diesel @ ~2300
3500 2wd@ ~4100
3500 2wd Diesel @ ~3300
Since we had decided to go safe(awd) on the wet highway roads here in oregon there wasn't much choice(!) but our empty off road capable trailer only had 250-300lbs of _stuff_ added to its base weight for a week's journey (most of it was reusable like kitchen gear etc). And it isn't much of a design issue to create an interior of lightweight composits and such that will re-create the basic rear-bed (as platform/storage) and simple counter areas similar to an RB50 or RB54 SMB floorplan and come under 500 or so pounds for the interior. This is my second DIY van project so i'm speaking from my own experience, as the first one used corregated cardboard fiberglassed for walls/cupboard faces and spruce for framework. super light. Got the idea from "Composite Construction For Homebuilt Aircraft". So i'm hoping to come in at around 6000 and then add the 250-300 "payload" for a camping trip. Still coming in well under the 7300 max payload, since our weight-at-scales was a hair under 5200 last week.
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TroySmith80
Adventurer
I don't want to threadjack, but Accrete, do you have a writeup of that process, or other resources for that type of construction that you can point us to? Also, i'll google that term "Composite Construction For Homebuilt Aircraft" and see what i find, but i'd love to see a build thread of your cardboard/glassed setup.
Accrete
Explorer
me neither so you all kick me out whenever you wish ; )
([ame="http://www.amazon.com/Composite-Construction-Homebuilt-Aircraft-aviation/dp/093871614X"]Amazon link to the book i mentioned[/ame]) Though i reference the book now and again, the internet will give you all you really need so unless your library is lacking...: ) Here is a quote from a page mentioning the TPG method:
I'm an ultralight-flight wannabe so follow some of the homebuilds/kits. The official style of construction is called Taylor-Paper-Glass, or TPG method. It was Molt Taylor's contribution to ultralight construction. Taylor is known for the original "Flying Car" design. There is a whole class that utilized ".050 kraft paper" for skin/walls/wings as part of the primary construction such as the MICRO-IMP and the BULLET (these are two examples of Taylor's designs). While there are some critical areas with aluminum/SS such as motor mounts and landing grear mounts, the majority of the aircraft is entirely of fiberglassed kraft-paper.
A visit to your local "Warehouse" type retailer (think Costco, Sam's Club, HomeDepot, etc...) will have various products on display that have ~1/4" flat sheets of Corregated Cardboard the width/depth of the pallet, these are great for mock-ups, and even the foundation for the "Core" product sandwiched between the fiberglass cloth/resin. Makes for a super tough end-product. You can fiberglass thin wood strips where there needs to be attachments to shelving (also the sandwich/boards) and such.
i'll stop now before i get the _boot_ : )
cheers,
thom
TroySmith80
Adventurer
Thanks for the info Accrete, that gets me on the path to more. It would be fun to do a project like that. I need a shop! I've been wanting to play with fiberglass for quite a while.
Zuren, it's comin along! What are the 2 grey boxes under your rear bumper?
Zuren, it's comin along! What are the 2 grey boxes under your rear bumper?
Reverse sensors. This was a fleet vehicle that had a reverse alarm and these sensors to tell you if you were about to back over something. There is a small Green/Yellow/Red LED indicator on the dash (with an audible clicking noise) to tell you how close you are getting. The wire to the alarm rusted through so that doesn't work and I'm wavering on whether I keep those or not. Sometimes they are nice to have and other times they aren't that accurate.
dwalt
New member
News to me......
Don't think they make a 2500 AWD???????????????
There is some torsion bar discussion in this thread:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47398
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I think they did early on in very limited numbers. When I was searching for my van I found a beauty in Indiana that was listed as an AWD 2500. It was too far and too much so I didn't pursue it. This is also assuming it was listed correctly (I've found that to be a big issue with internet shopping; most sellers have no idea what they are selling).
dwalt has cranked torsion bars but there has been some discussion and noted differences between these vans. GMC/Chevy color code their torsion bars and it appears that some bars respond to being cranked while others see no change, even with new keys. I'm in the "no change" boat - I cranked mine and saw nothing with orange coded bars. I believe dwalt has blue bars (don't confuse that with another phrase :bike_rider
and was able to achieve some lift. I think we are all still looking into this as time allows.
Photog
Explorer
One of the issues with the trucks, that may be the same with the vans, is the factory shocks are too short. The shocks limit travel, before the suspension reaches the lower travel stops.
When the torsion bars are cranked, the suspension has nowhere to go. Sometimes this looks like it has no effect. There is also a difference in the bars. The heavier bars will respond better to cranking, but they will also ride stiffer.
Try removing the nut on the upper shock mount. Then jack up the van, under the cross member, and see if the suspension travels further down than the shock does.
When the torsion bars are cranked, the suspension has nowhere to go. Sometimes this looks like it has no effect. There is also a difference in the bars. The heavier bars will respond better to cranking, but they will also ride stiffer.
Try removing the nut on the upper shock mount. Then jack up the van, under the cross member, and see if the suspension travels further down than the shock does.
dwalt
New member
dwalt has cranked torsion bars but there has been some discussion and noted differences between these vans. GMC/Chevy color code their torsion bars and it appears that some bars respond to being cranked while others see no change, even with new keys. I'm in the "no change" boat - I cranked mine and saw nothing with orange coded bars. I believe dwalt has blue bars (don't confuse that with another phrase :bike_rider
Day 21 of a 21 day hitch, they're blue alright
.But tomorrow, there's no doubt, I'll achieve some lift!!!:sombrero:
:rockon::roost::xxrotflma:jump::yikes::sunny:verrrry rare the 2500 awd
2003 is the only year I can confirm an awd hd3/4 express. i am in vancouver Canada but this rig was originally purchased in the US. Miles are high at 170k but the price is 6k and the body is good, all discs and pads are just done. I have been planing t0 build an E series van with a U-Joint kit, but that will run me 6k for the conversion plus the van I start with. My goal is seats 4 for travelling,7 for local jaunts, sleeps 2, pulls a 20' boat, and can go anywhere my ram can go.
The vanaconda really inspired me, but I think it will run 15k to have something decent, and the express can be done for <10.
Thanks for the links to the torsion bar stuff, looks like 33s with the right offset wheel will be no problem.:victory:
2003 is the only year I can confirm an awd hd3/4 express. i am in vancouver Canada but this rig was originally purchased in the US. Miles are high at 170k but the price is 6k and the body is good, all discs and pads are just done. I have been planing t0 build an E series van with a U-Joint kit, but that will run me 6k for the conversion plus the van I start with. My goal is seats 4 for travelling,7 for local jaunts, sleeps 2, pulls a 20' boat, and can go anywhere my ram can go.
The vanaconda really inspired me, but I think it will run 15k to have something decent, and the express can be done for <10.
Thanks for the links to the torsion bar stuff, looks like 33s with the right offset wheel will be no problem.:victory: