New Super Single Tire Option

I have realized a few things as I start off on this new adventure... I probably bought the wrong tires, which these will wear out eventually and I can buy ones with a higher load rating.

I also have decided I need to approach this build like I would plan a backpacking trip for a week and that is ounces add up to pounds and every once you save you will feel on your shoulders and back. Seems the same can be said about an expedition vehicle. I initially thought of using a box truck for the basis of my habitat build but now am leaning more towards foam core panels for the weight savings, and other benefits. Other things that add a lot of weight are fuel and water. How much is enough or too much? Can I use aluminum instead of steel for the camper subframe? Knowing what tools are necessary, plastic bowls and utensils instead of glass or metal. Will I need a propane tank to run a stove or will I incorporate enough solar to use an induction cooktop. And speaking of electrical, finding the highest amp hour batteries in the smallest lightest package. Everything needs to be looked at though a lens of how can I save weight.
 
Yes, but you no longer have a standard NPR HD, do you?
Has your new front dif setup been load rated by an engineer?

From what I've read the F450 superduty front axle is rated at 5600lbs. And that is greater than the Isuzu standard front axle.
 
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From what I've read
Did you not get an engineering report as part of your 4x4 conversion?
If you didn't, how do you know the safety factors of the modifications?

I don't know how things work in the US, but here it is mandatory to have engineering reports in order to register a modified vehicle.
 
In general, the US isn't that strict, though each state has different standards, and why I have found a lot of parts made in Australia are designed with a high degree of safety built in.

Here is an example. I was shopping for a 2" body lift for my Range Rover Classic and in the US and from a reputable Range Rover specialist vender their body lift kit consisted of a few "pucks" and longer bolts, cost $189.00. From Australia the kit included triangulated braces tying into the frame, seat belt anchor extensions, brackets to lift the front and rear bumpers, etc. Cost $821.00 US.

The difference in design is very evident.

1-5_aba74822-bc2d-426b-b420-e065af9aebbf_720x.jpgIMG_7269.jpg
 
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Fuso owner here, ran Toyo M/Ts for about 60,000 miles, then switched over to the Toyo M/T III. It was like dying and going to heaven. No more flat spotting, no more balancing problems, no more noisy tires and they perform much better in snow and ice. Off road there is no difference in performance between the two tires that I can tell.

My main problem with the M/Ts was that the massive lugs on the front tires would wear on the outside from turning right and left and that would cause a misbalance within 5,000 miles. My tire guy loved me. $ every 5000 miles for a rotate and balance. Fast forward to today. I just completed a 15,000 trek on my M/T IIIs and I had ZERO balance and zero wear problems.

And like others have said, pay attention to heat build up. I have an inside the tire TPMS and watch for heat and pressure buildup especially in summer. When I'm full of diesel and water, I weigh in at just over 13,000#. Traveling too fast (65 mph+) on a highway when it's over 90 degrees could cause problems. Simply pay attention to your equipment. Big trucks are not sports cars. Take it easy, it's the voyage not the destination.
 
Did you not get an engineering report as part of your 4x4 conversion?
If you didn't, how do you know the safety factors of the modifications?

I don't know how things work in the US, but here it is mandatory to have engineering reports in order to register a modified vehicle.

Not like Australia. And I'm not concerned. Seems to be a greater capacity not less. And I'm already 2000 -3000 lbs under weight

Current dry weight 11,600 lbs (truck, habitat and subframe)
 

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