new suspension

bptp7270

bptp7270

Adventurer
Amesz00 said:
pics of it all flexed up. as you can see, the front does most of the work, ill have to do something with the rears in future, but possibly a 4-link is a little over the top, since its not a rally truck- yet...
Click to expand...

Hi Andrew,
Your truck looks great with the extra ride height and sounds like you are pretty happy with the ride improvement. What have you done with regard to shocks after the lift. I am wanting to improve the billycart ride in my 06 dual cab and have been talking to John at ATW about the parabolics that they hope to have soon. Do you think that the main issue with the factory setup is the shortness of the leaf pack or the lack of bump stop clearance, or both?
 
A

Amesz00

Adventurer
Do you think that the main issue with the factory setup is the shortness of the leaf pack or the lack of bump stop clearance, or both?
Click to expand...

Hi mate,
I think its a bit of both. its no use having really soft rate springs with no travel, in fact that would be worse than stiff springs and little travel, because it would bottom out all the time, most likely ending you with a cracked axle. stiff springs and plenty of travel would be better for the truck than both above, but still give a rough ride.
but i assume ATW would be addressing both of these issues, if they are bringing out a parabolic kit based on standard length leaf packs.
Andrew
 
yabanja

yabanja

Explorer
Amesz00 said:
Just finishing new suspension on my canter.
200mm longer leaves on the front, about 3" higher.
Rears are still fairly stock, just reset about 2.5" higher, with the helpers taken out.
130mm longer, braided stainless brake lines for the front.

still to come:
Modified/new bumpstops on the front. (spring pack is 30mm thicker, so 30mm less bump-stop is required, and you want as much comp travel as poss)
Shock absorbers. ATM has none, and im heaps keen for those big-mother remote res shocks that warrior use on thier coils.
Also plan to run the rear shocks outboard of the chassis, between the springs and brake backing plate.

Even without any shocks, the overall ride on and offroad is probly 5x better than stock. its quite remarkable, the front springs actually do something besides simply hold the chassis several (incredibly useless) mm above the axle...

Anyways just went out for some pics, here they are.
Click to expand...

Sorry to dig up such an old thread…but. I am planning on doing something similar to this on my 2000 SWB Canter with a similar lift of 3" and was wondering if you had to make any modifications to the driveshafts?

Thank you!

Allan
 
westyss

westyss

Explorer
yabanja said:
Sorry to dig up such an old thread…but. I am planning on doing something similar to this on my 2000 SWB Canter with a similar lift of 3" and was wondering if you had to make any modifications to the driveshafts?

Thank you!

Allan
Click to expand...

Andrew would be the best one to answer that but from when I did my suspension upgrade and the info I got from the fellow doing it I got the impression that keeping the lift under 3" ie. mine was 2.5" lift will keep you from doing anything to the drivetrain, although the steering wheel had to be re-adjusted to centre. I did notice bump steer after the mod was done though.
 
A

Amesz00

Adventurer
Wow, dinosaur thread.. haha I saw it and went, New suspension, who's got new suspension?? Lol..
Driveshafts should be fine, atw lifts some of their coil trucks even higher (skifreak can attest to that) and John said to me once they haven't run into problems yet.. if I remember correctly.
The long springs work really well. Especially offroad. There's a springworks in eastern Aust that does the springs, dunno if it'd be worth having em shipped to US though..
It does mean cutting off the hangars and moving them 100mm each way. Plus the chassis crossmembers if you're doing rears as well. Alternatively, have new main + 2nd leaf made that is 35mm longer on shackle end, + re-arch rest of pack higher. That's what I did on the rear of my old rig, worked quite well.
Andrew.
 
gait

gait

Explorer
I have vibration from the front drive shaft above about 50 km/hr after fitting parabolics. Nothing serious but enough to remind me to release the hubs. I fitted the springs while vehicle in UK and am now in India on way back to Aus. I'll probably replace the drive shaft when home. Not sure if related but small oil leak from front of transfer case. Not enough to worry about before I'm home but I have spare seal just in case.
 
A

alan

Explorer
normally if it's a tailshaft angle issue, it will vibrate (rumble) from a standing start, you may have a crook uni.
 
K

kerry

Expedition Leader
Any clue as to how different than package is from the OE setup and what difference it might make in how the truck rides?
 
A

Andelles

Observer
kerry said:
Any clue as to how different than package is from the OE setup and what difference it might make in how the truck rides?
Click to expand...

yer crap ride looks like the springs I got on my canter to many leaves and to thick worse than standard
 
A

Andelles

Observer
Amesz00 said:
Wow, dinosaur thread.. haha I saw it and went, New suspension, who's got new suspension?? Lol..
Driveshafts should be fine, atw lifts some of their coil trucks even higher (skifreak can attest to that) and John said to me once they haven't run into problems yet.. if I remember correctly.
The long springs work really well. Especially offroad. There's a springworks in eastern Aust that does the springs, dunno if it'd be worth having em shipped to US though..
It does mean cutting off the hangars and moving them 100mm each way. Plus the chassis crossmembers if you're doing rears as well. Alternatively, have new main + 2nd leaf made that is 35mm longer on shackle end, + re-arch rest of pack higher. That's what I did on the rear of my old rig, worked quite well.
Andrew.
Click to expand...
who's the spring works that made the springs
 
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