jh504
Explorer
Removing the BL is not bad at all. I just did it to my truck. I was going to recommend removing it but I wasn't sure what your view of body lifts were. I am not a fan personally, unless its like a 1".
New to me: 87' 4Runner 4x4 SR5 22RE-5spd
- Thread starter defrag4
- Start date
Removing the BL is not bad at all. I just did it to my truck. I was going to recommend removing it but I wasn't sure what your view of body lifts were. I am not a fan personally, unless its like a 1".
defrag4
Road Warrior
Installed a replacement window regulator now I can roll up and down the driverside window, was wondering why my cig lighter wasnt working and ended up yanking out the center console where the PO installed an aftermarket radio
looks like he went a little crazy back there cutting up all the harnesses, tons of loose wires all over the place. I am trying to find a diagram now to find out what is what.
I see a threaded strand with a few wires inside of it that is cut and looks different from the rest of the wiring, i have a feeling that was what once hooked up to the cig lighter
looks like he went a little crazy back there cutting up all the harnesses, tons of loose wires all over the place. I am trying to find a diagram now to find out what is what.
I see a threaded strand with a few wires inside of it that is cut and looks different from the rest of the wiring, i have a feeling that was what once hooked up to the cig lighter
defrag4
Road Warrior
Also replaced the shift boot that the PO had cut up to accommodate for the longer throw into 4L with the BL. No more fumes coming up into the cabin but I will need to come up with a better solution as it keeps yanking out of 4L due to pressure from the boot pulling it back.
I have another boot from a tacoma that I may end up chopping up to accommodate for the longer throw
I have another boot from a tacoma that I may end up chopping up to accommodate for the longer throw
BLKNBLU
Explorer
That will all solve itself with removal of the BL. You can totally do the BL removal. If need be we'll talk you through it. Based on your shift boot comment, it sounds like the PO didn't do any modification to the shift linkage (which is actually a good thing now if you want to go back to original) The only other fly in the ointment is you will probably need to get new (shorter) mounting hardware. Maybe jh504 can help out here as he just went through it. There may also be some bracketry adjustments that were made for the radiator and bumper but that stuff will also be easy enough to figure out and undo.
jh504
Explorer
The original owner of mine used welded inserts to lengthen the shifters. You are ahead of the game if yours are still original. I bought $20 worth of hardware from Lowes to bring my truck back down 3". The bumper has a relocation bracket at the mounts that you just unbolt and take off. Also the radiator should have 4 relocation brackets on it. Just unbolt them as well. It's a straight forward job.
defrag4
Road Warrior
hey man if i can do it myself with $20 in parts its at least worth a shot, i still haven't sold my jeep so worse case scenario its laid up till i figure out how to fix it
i am worried if anything is going to be affected by dropping the BL? i didnt realize that he had not lengthened the shifter, i remember reading that it was pretty much required to do, guess not if you take a hacksaw to it :Wow1:
Ive never worked.on anything with the suspension before though, the FSM is on its way and should arrive next week,
also will have to track down some smaller tires ASAP
defrag4
Road Warrior
Figured I would post pics of some of the things I was talkin about
this is the cut boot, he cut the rubber boot and had to cut the actual boot mount plate as well to clear the throw to 4L, I got a stock boot on there now to keep fumes out but I cant hit 4L at the moment
here is a shot of the rear suspension, it has a Pro Comp Add-a-leaf and unknown shocks
motor shot
some sort of aftermarket wires
ghetto rigged temporary air intake $10 from krager, the stock TB/Airintake boot had the hole in it and when i took it off it fell into a million pieces, this got the job did but i have a feeling it is going to melt, have to upgrade to something beefier for a permanent fix
this is the cut boot, he cut the rubber boot and had to cut the actual boot mount plate as well to clear the throw to 4L, I got a stock boot on there now to keep fumes out but I cant hit 4L at the moment
here is a shot of the rear suspension, it has a Pro Comp Add-a-leaf and unknown shocks
motor shot
ghetto rigged temporary air intake $10 from krager, the stock TB/Airintake boot had the hole in it and when i took it off it fell into a million pieces, this got the job did but i have a feeling it is going to melt, have to upgrade to something beefier for a permanent fix
BLKNBLU
Explorer
If you're not aware of it, here is a perfectly perfect online FSM for a '93.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
It has been good for 99% of the stuff I have done on my '86. Nothing better than having a hard copy you can hold in your hands though. I'm just saying... you don't have to wait. There are others online but I like this one because of the way he has it set up by section. The others, you have to scroll through the whole damn thing to get to what you want.
Also, you can likely run those 33's without the BL as long as you stay on the street. Maybe a little rub here and there turning into a driveway etc. It's not optimum but smaller tires aren't an emergency either. You can hold out for something good rather than settling.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
It has been good for 99% of the stuff I have done on my '86. Nothing better than having a hard copy you can hold in your hands though. I'm just saying... you don't have to wait. There are others online but I like this one because of the way he has it set up by section. The others, you have to scroll through the whole damn thing to get to what you want.
Also, you can likely run those 33's without the BL as long as you stay on the street. Maybe a little rub here and there turning into a driveway etc. It's not optimum but smaller tires aren't an emergency either. You can hold out for something good rather than settling.
defrag4
Road Warrior
good to know, ya i have a downloaded copy of the FSM but found one on amazon for $50 and picked it up, sucks getting my laptop all greasy scrolling through that big document
thebrassnuckles
Explorer
You should swap your airbox and battery locations, It would get rid of the flex pipe across the front of the engine and possibly keep the incoming air cooler.
I just did this swap myself.. I dont have any pictures, but it seems to woork pretty well and it was easy. just extend the wires, drill some holes, and smash stuff with a hammer..
i ran the intake tube that was out the front of the radiator outside the engine compartment into the fender well.. eventually I will run PVC piping up ito the cowl area to keep any excess dirt from getting into the air filter.
the hardest part was extending the MAF plug. theres like 7 wires you have to splice and run around your engine compartment.
I think I gained about 3 hp.:ylsmoke:
I just did this swap myself.. I dont have any pictures, but it seems to woork pretty well and it was easy. just extend the wires, drill some holes, and smash stuff with a hammer..
i ran the intake tube that was out the front of the radiator outside the engine compartment into the fender well.. eventually I will run PVC piping up ito the cowl area to keep any excess dirt from getting into the air filter.
the hardest part was extending the MAF plug. theres like 7 wires you have to splice and run around your engine compartment.
I think I gained about 3 hp.:ylsmoke:
corax
Explorer
look here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Snorkel.shtml#Phase-II
while we're on the subject, my favorite site for most anything 1st gen 4runner, a great read for ideas and excellent for diagnosing the common ailments = 4Crawler's Site
Ruined Adventures
Brenton Cooper
Very good point. I've wondered about that...in my perfect world, I'd love to have a custom aluminum bumper fabbed up with 80% of the bumper being aluminum, mostly the plate surfaces that would wrap around the rear fender. The framework bearing the weight of the tire carrier would be made of steel. Instead of one long swingout, I'd have 2 swingouts, one on each side to distribute the weight. One swingout to carry the tire, the other swingout would have a gear rack for fuel cans or whatever. Each swingout would have a fold down table on the inner side, like the bumper BLKNBLU showed. THis would give me three work/cooking surfaces with the rear tailgate down, and I wouldn't need a whole parking space reserved behind the truck to enjoy it. The only problem is finding a fab-guy who's up to the challenge...and $$$ of course. I'd imagine the aluminum parts would have to bolt to the steel so it'd be a slightly ugly franken-bumper, but oh well.
I did the weldless Zuk mod, with front coils from a '97 TJ...The total lift was about 2-2.5 inches in the rear, which was sagging that much to begin with so I'd look at it as more of a cheap leveling kit, than a lift. If I didn't cut the coils down to 14", it'd be much higher. With 235/75R15 tires on stock wheels, I have about an inch of clearance between the coil springs and the tire sidewall.
I couldn't afford an aftermarket lift and I couldn't stand the saggy rear. I like the fact it is completely removable with no welding or drilling. It may be "hillbilly" but it seems to be the best bang for your buck. $20 bucks and super simple. I've noticed the ride quality has improved a little, especially when I've got about 300 extra pounds of gear in the back. I will admit that I was pretty freaked out trying to pack those springs in between the leaf packs...those spring compressors are sketchy at best. I've loaded tons of gear back there and it doesn't appear to sag.
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