New trailer- Powder or Paint

[joelN]

So I’m about done welding up my trailer frame and I’m trying to decide which will provide the best protection…. having it powder coated or having it sprayed with POR 15 and some top coat. Another trailer I started I primed with 2K primer and then used raptor bedliner. Sadly I wasn’t happy with the durability. One little Nick and moisture would get below the bedliner and it would peel.

Any advice?

 

[billiebob]

PAINT IT.....

way more durable than powder and easy to recoat. I've had powder coated wheels and painted wheels. The painted wheels are easy to recoat, once powder coating ages what do you do.

And forget the POR..... which stands for PAINT ON RUST..... new steel frame it is rust free. POR is a rust converter, a waste of money on a new steel frame. Just primer it with a bare metal primer.... been years since I painted new steel but I used a product called Velvet Bond..... and top coat it.

ps, are you sure the axle assembly has enough steel/frame to bolt too. the timbren style suspensions generate a LOT of torque

 

[soaringeagle]

Paint makes future modifications much easier to deal with.


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[joelN]

PAINT IT.....

way more durable than powder and easy to recoat. I've had powder coated wheels and painted wheels. The painted wheels are easy to recoat, once powder coating ages what do you do.

And forget the POR..... which stands for PAINT ON RUST..... new steel frame it is rust free. POR is a rust converter, a waste of money on a new steel frame. Just primer it with a bare metal primer.... been years since I painted new steel but I used a product called Velvet Bond..... and top coat it.

ps, are you sure the axle assembly has enough steel/frame to bolt too. the timbren style suspensions generate a LOT of torque

The rails on the trailer are 2x3x.120 steel. From what I have read as long as you use a 2x2 steel cross support like I have In the photo I should be ok without custom hangers. I could certainly add another 2x2 towards the tail of the suspension.

 

[john61ct]

The Timbrens being cross-braced by that not-an-axle tube in the first pic

eliminates the need for added framing or heroic gusseting at the individual mount locations.

Reduces the clearance a bit too though.

OP, are you extending that tube through the Timbren unit like an outrigger?

Doesn't that go through where the tire is supposed to be?

What shows in the second pic will possibly not be strong enough.

On coating the main chassis frame, I also vot for easily obtained primer + paint

when repairs are needed out in the field...

 

[joelN]

The Timbrens being cross-braced by that not-an-axle tube in the first pic

eliminates the need for added framing or heroic gusseting at the individual mount locations.

Reduces the clearance a bit too though.

OP, are you extending that tube through the Timbren unit like an outrigger?

Doesn't that go through where the tire is supposed to be?

What shows in the second pic will possibly not be strong enough.

On coating the main chassis frame, I also vot for easily obtained primer + paint

when repairs are needed out in the field...

The tube through the suspension hasn’t been cut to length yet. Once I drill the holes I will cut the tube.

 

[jwiereng]

Check out hot dip galvanizing in your area. Super durable, and not too costly. Very popular on utility trailers in the salt belt of southern Ontario. Might not be as attractive for you in Arizona. Approx $50-80 per 100 pounds.

 

[billiebob]

The rails on the trailer are 2x3x.120 steel. From what I have read as long as you use a 2x2 steel cross support like I have In the photo I should be ok without custom hangers. I could certainly add another 2x2 towards the tail of the suspension.

View attachment 694790
View attachment 694791

Read the spec from the axle supplier.... that is the only thing that counts. Don't rely on the internet threads.

 

[joelN]

As soon as my steal floor arrives so I can weld it to frame I will start to prep for paint. I decided to prime the trailer with Eastwoods Epoxy Primer and Catalyst. I plan to scuff the whole thing with 3M scuff pads then degrease the whole surface. Still researching best way to degrease it.

I did have a question...my intent is to attach the steal floor by tack welding it from the underside to the frame. Knowing that I will not get a perfect fit does it make sense to at least prime the frame where the steal floor will touch. I am concerned that even after painting, small amounts of moisture could get between the frame and floor.

 

[high-and-dry]

In reverse order, yes paint before the floor goes on, you will burn the paint in the area of the weld, but touching it up is easy.

As for paint prep. Hit it with flapper sander to knock off the scale. Then use purple power degreaser and a brush to give it scrub, start at one end, scrub, work to the other end and then do it again. Then rinse, you will get a flash coat of rust, but the flap sander will knock it off. It should only take 30 mins to give the frame a quick scrub down with the purple power and the brush.

I used eastwoods chassie paint/rust stopper on the last frame I did, and I am very impressed with it.