New wheels or spacers?

[xjaugie]

So, I tried to install a set of Tundra calibers and rotors on my 1st gen tacoma and it did not go well. I attempted to grind down enough of the caliper body to make them fit and it worked for about a month then brake fluid began to seep out of the caliper. Metal just too thin. (dumb move i know) don't judge me...LOL:sombrero:

I did however realize a HUGE difference in the tundra brakes and want to put a set back on the truck. I can either get a set of new wheels with the correct backspacing, or install spacers. Spacers worry me because they seem to be questionable in strength and durablility. Spacers would be a little cheaper, but replacing my, less than year old, wheels seems to be the right way.

Thoughts?

Keep in mind the truck gets used and abused, it is not just for driving to the movies....:ylsmoke:

 

[SWITAWI]

Wheels. Period. Can you really put a price tag on peace of mind? Do it right and you'll only have to do it once.

Motorcyclists have an old saying for people who always take the cheaper alternative... $10 helmet = $10 head. I don't know about you, but the lump between my shoulders is worth a bit more than that to me.

I'll be the first person to tell you that you should always get the most for your money, but spend wisely where it counts.

 

[ol' scott]

Wheels, most certainly. Do consider upgrading your spare too. If you get a flat on the front you'll have to move a rear tire forward and put the spare on the back since the spare doesn't have the correct backspacing either. That or carry a wheel spacer around to install if you get a flat up front.

 

[p nut]

I'm not a fan of spacers. Can't even get them legally here (in my state) and most spacers will fail inspection.

 

[Willman]

Sounds like new rims are in order.....Pictures would help....

I'm not a fan of spacers. Can't even get them legally here (in my state) and most spacers will fail inspection.

Utah? Hummm....Not sure what your talking about.....Never heard that.....I never had an issue will falling inspection.....

 

[p nut]

Utah? Hummm....Not sure what your talking about.....Never heard that.....I never had an issue will falling inspection.....

http://www.liftlaws.com/utah_lift_laws.htm

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techar..._1102_lift_laws_you_need_to_know/viewall.html

"Utah
(State CODE, TITLE 41)

Lift Blocks (§41-6A-1630): Front lift blocks are prohibited. Stacking two or more rear blocks isn't allowed. This section also makes it illegal to use non-OE wheel spacers to increase a vehicle's track width."

 

[Willman]

http://www.liftlaws.com/utah_lift_laws.htm

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techar..._1102_lift_laws_you_need_to_know/viewall.html

"Utah
(State CODE, TITLE 41)

Lift Blocks (§41-6A-1630): Front lift blocks are prohibited. Stacking two or more rear blocks isn't allowed. This section also makes it illegal to use non-OE wheel spacers to increase a vehicle's track width."

It there all right.....

http://le.utah.gov/code/TITLE41/htm/41_06a163000.htm

Must don't enforce it....Discount even installed them....

 

[p nut]

It there all right.....

http://le.utah.gov/code/TITLE41/htm/41_06a163000.htm

Must don't enforce it....Discount even installed them....

Discount told me a few years ago that they don't install them anymore. But haven't checked recently. Yeah, not sure how nit picky they are on this. It's like the tint law. Half the cars I see on the road are below 50% tint. I'm one of the few unlucky that gets caught at 35% tint....

 

[Willman]

Discount told me a few years ago that they don't install them anymore. But haven't checked recently. Yeah, not sure how nit picky they are on this. It's like the tint law. Half the cars I see on the road are below 50% tint. I'm one of the few unlucky that gets caught at 35% tint....

Good point.....

 

[TacoDell]

just thought I'd share my similar situation

have no issue with the brake caliper clearance tho'

I also recently bought new tires and wheels @ 4" bs'ing...
4" bs was good enough for 285's... but not so with the new tires

These larger tires (295's) rub the frame slightly at full steer. lck
uh, well... a little more then slight, when the tire's side lugs hit.

so this has prompted me to think about spacing out the wheels some.

Where I'm going...

installing longer studs to the front hubs (lexus 55mm)

utilizing billet, lug centric .25" spacers.

utilizing open end ET spline drive lug nuts

intended on only doing the front...
tho' I purchased studs and billet spacers
for out back as well.

only got the studs so far.
so just waiting for the other deliveries.

I'll hafta' roll up to Moab afterwards just so I can scoff at their law

I'll be the dweeb stopped on the side of the road checking his lug nut torque ! Lol

 

[p nut]

TacoDell, I would have thought 4" bs would be plenty with 285's. What's the width of your new rims?

 

[TacoDell]

TacoDell, I would have thought 4" bs would be plenty with 285's. What's the width of your new rims?

4" bs'ing is just enough for 285/75/16 tires. (3.75" bs would work even better IMO)
I wheeled plenty with that sized tire with little issue.
'cept that one needs at least 3.5" of lift to allow full travel.
^ I use 2.5" of susp. lift and a 1" body lift
( ^ because a 2.5" susp. lift should be the max. on the ifs 4X )

My wheels are 16 X 8 ProComp alloys # 8069-6883

with the 285's...
I still had some slight rub to the frame at full steering lock (R/L)
and a very slight rub to the foot well/firewall area during max compression.

One side has always rubbed the frame slightly more then the other...
so I attempted to re-center the rack better
and now, it simply rubs more on the opposing side... sigh
I'm going to attempt one more try at re-centering the rack.
Think I might 'ave missed it by one tooth/notch.
Probably can't eliminate all of the frame rub.
But I'd like to at least minimize that.

My recently purchased 295/75/16 kooks are taller and slightly wider.
^ at least 1/2" taller and about a 1/4" wider then a 285.

it changes everything.
and now... I gotta modify the wheel wells some more for fitment.

adding the .25" spacers is simply to keep the tire
from rubbing the frame less... doubt it will completely go away.
but it might work as a temporary band aide.

Changing wheels to a 3.75" bs'ing, would eliminate the need for spacers,
but it cost too much to play.
and I already spent more then I should've for the new tires/wheels.
Moving outboard farther say a 3.50 bs'd wheel
would likely put the tire into the outer fender lip
and necessitate trimming the outer fender lip.

nah... don't want to go there.

If I were to do it over again...
I'd have simply stuck with the 285's
and a 3.75" bs'd wheel.
I would have had less hassle and expenditure.

The front hub studs were going to get extended regardless
because IMO the original front studs are too short from the factory.
Acceptable for many wheels... but not so with the ProComp alloys.
The center chunk of the PC alloy wheel is much thicker then many others.
And is my reason for extending the hub studs.

 

[JCMatthews]

It there all right.....

http://le.utah.gov/code/TITLE41/htm/41_06a163000.htm

Must don't enforce it....Discount even installed them....

In Utah the law is spacers not adapters. I know there is not a lot of difference, however my friend owns a Les Schwab store and this is what he told me. They can install adapters but not spacers. I believe that the old spacers did not have new studs in them, and the adapters always have. Spidertrax spacers are really good. My brother has been running them on his Jeep Commander for years without even one nut coming loose.

 

[xjaugie]

Looks like it will be new rims with 3.75 backspacing in my future. Better piece of mind is worth a few dollars. I once lost a 38" Super Swamper off the front of a pre-88 chevy truck doing 65 MPH, don't wish to do that again.