Newest Max Coupler

[cnynrat]

Never seen that video, but I can say that I have never seen one that loose.

I never really looked closely at the play in my Max-C, but it is similar to that shown in the video. It's perhaps a bit less than shown in the video, but there is a noticeable amount of movement and you can make it clunk as shown in the video if you move it back and forth.

That said, I don't notice the noise when I'm pulling the trailer. Certainly doesn't seem to be any noisier than the LNR that I used previously. I've probably got about 1000 miles or so on mine. Since I didn't notice this before I can't say what it was like when new. Mine was purchased in November 2010.

For me, the LNR is unacceptable as an off-road coupler due to it's tendency to destroy itself when backing while the trailer is at an acute angle to the tow rig. In my off road towing experience so far it's clear that this is a maneuver you will need to be able to execute. Whether it's tight switchbacks, or the need to turn around in spaces where there isn't room for the turning radius of my rig, I find I am backing with the trailer at an acute angle on almost every trip.

 

[TheTJRod]

Ok, so on the hitch ball mount pivot. Is there any bearing surface between the metal? I have been trying to look this up everywhere and can't find how the pivot is set up. I would like to see some pictures with the entire thing taken apart(including rotational axis) or an exploded drawing(I love those). From what I gather in all the photos I have seen. It uses a 1" bolt so that you can use a standard ball hitch mount for 1" shanks. Then the mount has a bigger than 1" hole(my guess is 1 1/8") to fit a non flanged bearing to have the top portion to swivel in the ball hitch mount. But what are they using to space the two apart. This picture looks like it is missing some parts, at the very least it needs another spacer for the top and bottom of the bolt.

 

[Pikeman]

The picture is missing a washer or two. The one that is shown goes between the drawbar and the top coupler and is what the bearing/ bushing rides on allowing it to swivel. So the total assembly is machined washer under bolt head that rides on bearing/bushing, vehicle side attachment, second machined washer, drawbar, large fender washer nyloc nut. At least that is what came with mine and how I assembled it. Still have yet to use it.

 

[cowboy4x4]

Have they addressed the issue of the pin thats in the square tube working its way out ? I know of one possibly two units where this has happened.

 

[Martyn]

Have they addressed the issue of the pin thats in the square tube working its way out ? I know of one possibly two units where this has happened.

We called on that yesterday. Kilby has been testing a fix for this and has come up with a solution to the issue. At this time I don't know what the fix involves.They should start shipping product again early next week.

Kilby said they will be dealing directly with any customers who are having issues with the pin working it's way up out of the coupler. Anyone who bought one of the new square couplers from AT is welcome to contact us directly if they have concerns.

 

[brentbba]

I love and hate reading great threads like this. Reminds me of how bent and mangled my old LNR coupler is!

 

[Martyn]

I have been in contact with Max Coupler. They have a fix kit for the coupler that will be sent out shortly to everyone who has bought the new style coupler, (pictured above).

The issue is that the shear pin can start to back out of the hole it is pressed into. I'm not certain what the fix is, but it does address the issue.

My advise would be not to use the coupler until you get the fix kit and install it. If you do decide to use the coupler set it up so the pin is on the upper side, check for any movement of the pin, if it has started to back out of the coupler tap it back into place with a hammer. I emphasis again that I do not recommend using the couple until you have installed the fix kit.

 

[jim65wagon]

I have a question on the coupler if someone wouldn't mind answering: The picture shown is the coupler and parts that are installed on our trailer. The trailer manufacturer installed the coupler. Is this all there is for parts? I (maybe mistakenly) believed there was a washer for under the bolt head and some fiber washers involved. As it is now the bolt head and coupler grind against each other when the unit swivels (sometimes the bolt will turn with the unit, sometimes it does not). Is this correct?
.
I'm asking since I did not get to see the coupler packaged as shipped, nor the installation instructions. I'd just like some peace of mind knowing, part of me is wondering if the shop lost some parts. They did hand me the "Fix It Kit" package (after I got the trailer hitched up and ready to tow home) and said they didn't have time to install it - which I did after I got home.....
.
Thanks in advance!

 

[yzftaco]

Can someone please answer this question... I bought one a few weeks ago, and received what is pictured above plus one washer.. Am I missing parts? Does the newer version not need the delrin spacers?

I don't see any delrin or similar material used as a spacer/wear guard here-steel on steel be OK with just paint or am I missing something? Perhaps on the bottom of the thicker plate for the vehicle end?

Nice to see a new design without a massive price increase.

Best of Luck,

Mike

Ok, so on the hitch ball mount pivot. Is there any bearing surface between the metal? I have been trying to look this up everywhere and can't find how the pivot is set up. I would like to see some pictures with the entire thing taken apart(including rotational axis) or an exploded drawing(I love those). From what I gather in all the photos I have seen. It uses a 1" bolt so that you can use a standard ball hitch mount for 1" shanks. Then the mount has a bigger than 1" hole(my guess is 1 1/8") to fit a non flanged bearing to have the top portion to swivel in the ball hitch mount. But what are they using to space the two apart. This picture looks like it is missing some parts, at the very least it needs another spacer for the top and bottom of the bolt.

I have a question on the coupler if someone wouldn't mind answering: The picture shown is the coupler and parts that are installed on our trailer. The trailer manufacturer installed the coupler. Is this all there is for parts? I (maybe mistakenly) believed there was a washer for under the bolt head and some fiber washers involved. As it is now the bolt head and coupler grind against each other when the unit swivels (sometimes the bolt will turn with the unit, sometimes it does not). Is this correct?
.
I'm asking since I did not get to see the coupler packaged as shipped, nor the installation instructions. I'd just like some peace of mind knowing, part of me is wondering if the shop lost some parts. They did hand me the "Fix It Kit" package (after I got the trailer hitched up and ready to tow home) and said they didn't have time to install it - which I did after I got home.....
.
Thanks in advance!

 

[medic83]

Cant wait to use it. Mine came in last week. I will be finishing up the tongue of the trailer tomorrow AM. Im gonna tow the trailer to the dump to get the weight. I really like the new design.

 

[Martyn]

I have a question on the coupler if someone wouldn't mind answering: The picture shown is the coupler and parts that are installed on our trailer. The trailer manufacturer installed the coupler. Is this all there is for parts? I (maybe mistakenly) believed there was a washer for under the bolt head and some fiber washers involved. As it is now the bolt head and coupler grind against each other when the unit swivels (sometimes the bolt will turn with the unit, sometimes it does not). Is this correct?
.
I'm asking since I did not get to see the coupler packaged as shipped, nor the installation instructions. I'd just like some peace of mind knowing, part of me is wondering if the shop lost some parts. They did hand me the "Fix It Kit" package (after I got the trailer hitched up and ready to tow home) and said they didn't have time to install it - which I did after I got home.....
.
Thanks in advance!

Jim

I don't have the coupler in front of me to verify, but I believe the picture, and kit, should have a second washer. The washer goes between the bolt head and the coupler.

On the newest version of the coupler you should find (from the top down):
Bolt
Washer
Vehicle side of coupler
Flanged spacer
Washer
Nylock

 

[jim65wagon]

Jim

I don't have the coupler in front of me to verify, but I believe the picture, and kit, should have a second washer. The washer goes between the bolt head and the coupler.

On the newest version of the coupler you should find (from the top down):
Bolt
Washer
Vehicle side of coupler
Flanged spacer
Washer
Nylock

Thanks Martyn!

That was what I was thinking at the very least, that there should be a washer at the bolt head. Guess I'll make a trip to the magic bolt box in the garage!

 

[gabepari]

I'll take another photo of the "newest" of the newest coupler on Monday when I get into the shop. The one pictured above was the "old" new one, before the fix. These ones were intended, by Kilby, to be run without any washers above OR below the crush sleeve. I consulted with Chris, the manufacturer, before he went AWOL about the concern I had with him not running washers as thrust bearings and relying on the very small bearing surface of the underside of the hex bolt. He assured me that it would be fine. Well, the newer ones have a shouldered spacer AND a washer now. BUT, the washer they provide with the kit is absolute junk and should be replaced. Every coupler that we put on a trailer, or send out to customers, has an upgraded upper washer that we provide.

Who did you buy the coupler from? At the very least, you should contact Kilby and get a shouldered crush sleeve and a washer.

Also, contrary to what the instructions say, I tighten the stink out of the yoke bolt. The crush sleeve (shouldered spacer) should NOT spin when the yoke pivots. The bolt should not be the bearing, if the bolt is loose enough that it can spin then bad things will happen.

If properly assembled, you should not need safety wire or any nonsense to keep the nut on. The nylock, when properly torqued, will not come loose.

Gabe

 

[TacoDell]

wait... ummm

so Chris is no longer using the delrin washers on this redesign ?

I know for my 6K# Max C the "U" bracket (saddle) pivots at the delrin washer and metal washer...
both at the top and the bottom...

since this don't have them... it's going to be metal to metal wear ?

Curious as to the length of this primary bolt...
I'd like one a tad longer then the one that came with my 6K# model...
primarily because I'm mounting it inverted...
and want a few more threads showing at the nut side

Tho' if this bolt has less washers...
I'm going to guess it's actually shorter then what came with the 6K# model ?

 

[jim65wagon]

The one pictured above was the "old" new one, before the fix.

That's the one I have, but with the fix kit installed

Who did you buy the coupler from? At the very least, you should contact Kilby and get a shouldered crush sleeve and a washer.

Sierra 4x4. I think I may contact Chris directly and see about getting the new crush sleeve

Also, contrary to what the instructions say, I tighten the stink out of the yoke bolt. The crush sleeve (shouldered spacer) should NOT spin when the yoke pivots. The bolt should not be the bearing, if the bolt is loose enough that it can spin then bad things will happen.

Thanks, that mirrors my thought on the matter.

If properly assembled, you should not need safety wire or any nonsense to keep the nut on. The nylock, when properly torqued, will not come loose.
Gabe

I've not had any problems with nylocks. I think they are a great invention!

Thanks Gabe!