Nice Holes in your hood.

[PhulesAU]

I got one of these today. http://tgtwoffroad.com/store2/index..._id=70&zenid=1e17603aac8a304075f3e0741f85c103 Down here in the bottom of Texas, and the places I get to go heat dispersion is a serious issue. slowly crawling the back country or concrete waste lands of Houston. I'll get some pics to add, If anyone else is interested.

 

[Hunter]

Cant go wrong with that. Good looking as well too. Understand the heat issue living here in Phoenix, its something we always have to consider.

A freind of mine has a Cherokee, and it was always running hot. (well, all Cherokees run hot) He added a small vent/scoop and he said it dropped 10 degrees of his temp.

 

[OS-Aussie]

Looks a lot like the one Poison Spyder sells. I have the GenRight vent kit on my TJ and have thought of putting fans on the inside to draft more.

I have also seen a unit that has vent on one side and cold air on the other.

However cool upgrade, look forward to the install details. :26_7_2: I found the dremel was the best thing to cut the holes for the five piece GenRight kit. What is your plan for the cutting and will you leave the hood structures or clear cut ?

 

[computeruser]

Interesting product. Looks like it would prove helpful, since heat is a bit problem underhood on the TJs. I'm thinking of putting the AEV Heat Reduction hood on my TJ this spring and keeping the old hood in case I change my mind down the road.

Look forward to install pics!

 

[PhulesAU]

It may be Tuesday before the pics make it..... My cameras and I are not getting along. We'll be using a small cut-off wheel, A fellow club member with very steady hands will do the slicing, while I cower in a corner. 4 large holes are abouve my nerve level....It comes with a template and is straight forward. I liked it because it is one piece and when bolted down maintain the structural integrity of the hood.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Uhhhhhh do you know where nascar has the intake?

Its at the base of the windshield. It is there becasue the air pools and actually forces air into the intake at speed.


Now think about that and the hood having louvers and when you are driving down the hwy at 60mph. You are pushing air into the the hood and it is being sucked under the truck. You see as you drive down the road at speed a low pressure area develops under the hood caused by the ground effect the road under the truck that is not moving makes. This sucks air though the radiator and why going 70 you don't need a cooling fan. On a low riding car it actually pulls the car to the ground increasing traction and road holding.


That hood insert defeats that effect by packing the air in from the top.

Then we get into the whole steaming your windshield on the trail if you hit any water. Oil smells and stuff being sucked up by the cowl intake for the HVAC when putting around town. They don't put vents on hoods for a lot of reasons. If you look there is a seal at the back edge where the hood meets the cowl on all cars and it has a very real purpose.

Trail only stripped down truck in the desert. It is probably beneficial. A road driven truck...You may well create an overheat and a whole host of other problems.

 

[PhulesAU]

Uhhhhhh do you know where nascar has the intake?

Its at the base of the windshield. It is there becasue the air pools and actually forces air into the intake at speed.


Now think about that and the hood having louvers and when you are driving down the hwy at 60mph. You are pushing air into the the hood and it is being sucked under the truck. You see as you drive down the road at speed a low pressure area develops under the hood caused by the ground effect the road under the truck that is not moving makes. This sucks air though the radiator and why going 70 you don't need a cooling fan. On a low riding car it actually pulls the car to the ground increasing traction and road holding.


That hood insert defeats that effect by packing the air in from the top.

Then we get into the whole steaming your windshield on the trail if you hit any water. Oil smells and stuff being sucked up by the cowl intake for the HVAC when putting around town. They don't put vents on hoods for a lot of reasons. If you look there is a seal at the back edge where the hood meets the cowl on all cars and it has a very real purpose.

Trail only stripped down truck in the desert. It is probably beneficial. A road driven truck...You may well create an overheat and a whole host of other problems.

This a well thought out response. IF I was driving a stock height Jeep and there were any aerodynamics to begin with. as it sits now, I'm almost a foot taller than stock and with a winch and lights blocking part of the air flow, I having to find ways around the
accepted" logic. Crazy HUH???

 

[ntsqd]

In the 93003 zip I've a friend who punches louvers, which does you no good what so ever. He charges by the job rather than per each as some do so it's hard to quote a price. Say roughly $2 to $3 each based on others in the area. How many louvers does the panel have? Anything less than 65 isn't a great deal.

That being said, Grim is right no matter what lift. Is not "accepted" stuff, it has been proven over and over in wind tunnels on many different vehicles.
What DOES change is the size and area of the pressurized 'bubble' at the base of the windshield. Corresponding to that is the size & shape of the partial vacuum bubble that exists in the middle of flat or nearly so hoods. Like yours. The Ford "Shaker" hood scoops were dumb because they put the air intake in the middle of a vacuum, but the GM Cowl Induction hoods pulled from the high pressure zone at the base of the winshield and worked a lot better.
So those louvers in the middle of the hood will flow the most air at speed. Those near the outer edges might see some venturi effect if the air flowing over the hood is laminar enough, but for that to be most effective the louvers need to be inverted & reversed so that the boundary layer is kept to a minimum. those at the rear of the hood will either be stalled or possibly have reverse flow due to the high pressure at the base of the windshield.

When you get it in place tape some pieces of string behind the openings down one side & go for a drive. That will tell you which are working & which should possibly be plugged.

 

[adrenaline503]

I prefer the Fiero vent on a Cherokee personally.

 

[robert j. yates]

I went the Genrite route.....$34.95 and a cut off wheel got me this.

 

[BigAl]

I don't have a picture but my buddy cut (2) 3"x10" holes in his cherokee hood and used aluminum sofit louvers from LOWES. Total cost was ~$4. They don't really look that bad

 

[PhulesAU]

Geez, you'd think I was adding a snorkle for a ride to wal-mart. I understand the wind tunnel testing and why (sorta) nascar does what they do. " circles are boring" BUT who did the testing at 3 - 5 mph??? That is where this will do the most good. waiting in line on a trail or on ramp just doesn't fit the testing model as described.

 

[ntsqd]

I don't think any of us doubted that. It is the higher speed operation that we're concerned with. I am anyway.


Who wants to be in exactly the same place that they started from every 1.5 minutes anyway?

 

[robert j. yates]

Some Jeeps will run hot no matter what you do. Mine has run in the 220* plus range ever since it was new on the freeway at 65mph with the ac on. I've had my Jeep since March of 98 (brought it new) and have dealt with the following.....

Custom 2 row aluminum radiator = no workie
Separate circuit transmission cooler = no workie
Lowering the winch = no workie
Hi flow water pump = no workie
Hood vents = no workie
Ceramic coated header = no workie
New engine = no workie...the Jeep still runs at 220* plus

Now with all of that said....I do see a noticable flow of hot air out of my Genrite hood vents...particularly in crawling situations. Having done all kinds of investigation on this...it seems I have only a 10* temperature drop across the radiator to which I ascribe the culprit as the ac condensor which runs at 325* My rig is lifted both in suspension and body and this problem was there when it was stock so the lift is irrelevent. While I can appreciate the fact that there is science behind cooling systems and airflow....Jeeps are bricks and have a rather smallish engine bay. They build up heat no matter what once we start driving them harder and load them up with additional weight....figuring out ways to vent it is not a bad thing.

 

[ntsqd]

Late models are designed to run hotter than older vehicles. One year Corvette, that I know of, was programed to turn on the radiator fans at 235*f!

While it is designed in and every single dimension, component, or program sub-routine is expecting that temp, you can affect it with a different value T-stat. Though I'm not sure I'd worry about the high number if it holds steady at that temp regardless of operation.