Northbound Tundra, building a 5 speed manual transmission swapped 2001 Toyota Tundra with 2uzfe 4.7 liter engine into an overland adventure vehicle

[beef tits]

The older I get the less I understand the manual transmission fetish. I drove manual vehicles strictly for years. I even did a few manual swaps on automatic vehicles when I was younger (80's Supra and an old S-10). Looking back it was not at all worth the time or effort. I finally switched to automatics in 2020 and I will never go back, should have done it years ago. No point to this post other than suggestive "old man wisdom"

 

[MudWaspSR5]

Yeah, just about everything is stock Toyota in this build except for the adapter plate and throwout bearing, including the clutch pedal. A list with oem part numbers is a good idea that I will work on. Now that I have some miles on it I’m thinking about building kits for people who are interested in the swap.

Any luck with all that northbound? I'd specifically like to know details about the wiring with the 4wd truck vs 2wd. I'm about to buy a Tundra and plan to do this mod within the next six months. I own a 94 SR5 Ex-Cab 4x4 with the 3.0 and have long toyed with doing the 3.4L 5VZ swap most everyone does but after doing a lot of research found that A; they are hard to come by these days with any less than 200k miles and more importantly B; they are well known the be plagued by a head cracking issue between the back two left cylinders which some surmise is due to excess heat created by the exhaust crossover. When doing my clutch last year the old guy / owner at the flywheel shop discussed it with me and showed me several 5VZ heads with the cracks. He said it's common and a crapshoot to find one that isn't.

So at that point I decided the 5VZ wasn't worth the hassle or cost and then started looking into possible diesel swaps and of course the 1UZ or 2UZ. But then said why bother as I also really wanted to have access cab doors. If my old truck had them I'd consider keeping it but constantly moving the seat to get stuff out of the back, including my now 9 year old son and dog has let me know it's really time to move on. It's just too small and not having a rear door is a deal-breaker. So Tundra here I come. But like my old truck and plans I had for it, I really want to keep a manual and beef it up for camping and trails. I have the funds to do it all now so it's time to shop.

I plan to get an 05-06 with the VVT-i. I got a lot of questions answered in the 1st gen FB group about it and it seems it will be ok with minor changes/mods. So what I'm mostly hoping any of you could answer is should I shop for a 4wd tundra or 2wd. I saw above where @smokeysevin said it was easier to do with a 2wd but then don't you have to buy the front differential, axles, hubs, etc.. whereas if you buy a 4wd you will already have most of that built in? I'm probably looking to ditch the automatic transfer case though and go full manual for both transmission and the x-fer case with manual Aisin locking hubs..just like my old -current, and soon to be for sale- truck. But again... what's the optimal choice here?

I'd greatly appreciate the help with this as it's something I've been chewing on for the last few years. I had actually found @northboundtundra thread in 2019 right as he was doing it because I was already looking to do it myself at the time and was exploring the feasibility of ditching my truck for a Tundra to essentially have the same vehicle, just a little larger and with the access cab doors. The Tundra access cab wheelbase is just 6" longer than mine. The double cabs (which I call safari vehicles) are 18" longer which is just too much for my tastes and can't see them being good for 4wd trails.

Regardless, I'm definitely going to tackle this and soon. I hate automatics and especially hate the "3 on the tree" style too. I grew up with enough of those. And I hate the dash too. I'll be modding that right after the swap.

As for my skills to do this, I've self maintained my truck, cars, and motorcycles for 20 years. I'm a commercial pilot, flight simulator builder and I fabricate and weld..mig, stick, and tig, and have a pretty complete home shop. I also do a lot of CAD and design work. I have no doubts that I can do this in my driveway. I just need those few questions answered and likely some help with the wiring, especially if getting a 4wd tundra is the better way to go with this.

Thanks for the help. I hope someone reads all this.

PS -- Given Northbounds lack of response to others in the last year and the fact that I couldn't successfully tag him in this post I really hope he hasn't gone off reservation or got lost in the woods lol. We need your help dude!

 

[digitalferg]

@mudwasp- if you're already going to be replacing the transmission, and planning a manual transfer case, there's no reason at all to get the 4x4 Tundra. Swapping in the front axle stuff is easy peasy compared to what you're planning with the trans and case. Front axle stuff is basically all bolt on.

So when you consider that, plus the fact that the 1G Tundra are getting harder to find in good condition without a bazillion miles, plus the fact that a 4x4 one is going to cost you a few grand more at least, PLUS the fact that *everybody* wants them, it's a no-brainer to open your search to include the 2WD versions.

Also, "optimal choice" is going to be relative to oneself. Do you want it all manual?-- if yes, then do it all manual. The only caveat I'd say there is on the manual hubs... the manual hubs requires different CVS (well, different shaft and outer bell end) and the manual shafts are noticeably smaller at the bell end (who the hell knows why Toyota did that...) and they are supposedly weaker than the ADD shafts. And further, they were designed for the much smaller, much less HP 1G Tacoma, so some worry about whether they'd hold up to the 2UZ and a Tundra. Sidenote: I was planning to do it on a 2005 DCab Tundra I had but I stupidly sold it. My current 2003 Tacoma DCab has manual hubs and there's no question if I got another 1G Tundra I would do manual hubs for sure. ? But I'm well aware to the fact that the Tundra could possibly destroy those manual hub CVs. Could always buy custom stronger CVs. Pretty sure they're already available somewhere bit i forget the name...

 

[smokeysevin]

With the manual hub swap on a 2wd truck, you don't have to screw with the electronics at all and since the parts are all made for the same truck/trans it drops in with the exception of having to cut a hole in the floor.

On a 4wd truck you have the ADD and other things that you could disable or leave in place. In either case, you have to swap the hub assembly from the ADD setup to the manual one which means new wheel bearings, seals, clips, hubs, and outer axles anyways.

For me, I didn't want to sell my truck and start over so it made sense to swap stuff and the price wasn't too outrageous. If you are buying into a new vehicle you could start with either because like you said, you need diff, 4wd trans, etc.

Sean

 

[greygoosefj]

Any luck with all that northbound? I'd specifically like to know details about the wiring with the 4wd truck vs 2wd. I'm about to buy a Tundra and plan to do this mod within the next six months. I own a 94 SR5 Ex-Cab 4x4 with the 3.0 and have long toyed with doing the 3.4L 5VZ swap most everyone does but after doing a lot of research found that A; they are hard to come by these days with any less than 200k miles and more importantly B; they are well known the be plagued by a head cracking issue between the back two left cylinders which some surmise is due to excess heat created by the exhaust crossover. When doing my clutch last year the old guy / owner at the flywheel shop discussed it with me and showed me several 5VZ heads with the cracks. He said it's common and a crapshoot to find one that isn't.

So at that point I decided the 5VZ wasn't worth the hassle or cost and then started looking into possible diesel swaps and of course the 1UZ or 2UZ. But then said why bother as I also really wanted to have access cab doors. If my old truck had them I'd consider keeping it but constantly moving the seat to get stuff out of the back, including my now 9 year old son and dog has let me know it's really time to move on. It's just too small and not having a rear door is a deal-breaker. So Tundra here I come. But like my old truck and plans I had for it, I really want to keep a manual and beef it up for camping and trails. I have the funds to do it all now so it's time to shop.

I plan to get an 05-06 with the VVT-i. I got a lot of questions answered in the 1st gen FB group about it and it seems it will be ok with minor changes/mods. So what I'm mostly hoping any of you could answer is should I shop for a 4wd tundra or 2wd. I saw above where @smokeysevin said it was easier to do with a 2wd but then don't you have to buy the front differential, axles, hubs, etc.. whereas if you buy a 4wd you will already have most of that built in? I'm probably looking to ditch the automatic transfer case though and go full manual for both transmission and the x-fer case with manual Aisin locking hubs..just like my old -current, and soon to be for sale- truck. But again... what's the optimal choice here?

I'd greatly appreciate the help with this as it's something I've been chewing on for the last few years. I had actually found @northboundtundra thread in 2019 right as he was doing it because I was already looking to do it myself at the time and was exploring the feasibility of ditching my truck for a Tundra to essentially have the same vehicle, just a little larger and with the access cab doors. The Tundra access cab wheelbase is just 6" longer than mine. The double cabs (which I call safari vehicles) are 18" longer which is just too much for my tastes and can't see them being good for 4wd trails.

Regardless, I'm definitely going to tackle this and soon. I hate automatics and especially hate the "3 on the tree" style too. I grew up with enough of those. And I hate the dash too. I'll be modding that right after the swap.

As for my skills to do this, I've self maintained my truck, cars, and motorcycles for 20 years. I'm a commercial pilot, flight simulator builder and I fabricate and weld..mig, stick, and tig, and have a pretty complete home shop. I also do a lot of CAD and design work. I have no doubts that I can do this in my driveway. I just need those few questions answered and likely some help with the wiring, especially if getting a 4wd tundra is the better way to go with this.

Thanks for the help. I hope someone reads all this.

PS -- Given Northbounds lack of response to others in the last year and the fact that I couldn't successfully tag him in this post I really hope he hasn't gone off reservation or got lost in the woods lol. We need your help dude!

Please document everything, there are a lot of people that would be interested in this as well. Start your own thread for people to follow along.

 

[MudWaspSR5]

Thanks for the quick overnight replies guys, that was awesome and your answers really helped narrow my search. I do want the 05-06 V8 but what are your opinions on the 1GR-FE v6 VVT-i 4.0L Tundra?? I know the first gen GR has some coil issues from what I've read but are otherwise good engines and the second gen GR has VVT-i on both intake / exhaust and gives a lot more horsepower (so an eventual swap upgrade could happen years down the road). I've seen a few come up lately and have debated the option since the gas mileage is a little better (but HP /towing is obviously not).

Towing power for me however is a little bit of a toss-up. I won't be using this as a daily work truck, nor to ever consistently tow. It will be much more a weekend warrior camper / overlander. I will want to do some towing on occasion, like a small camper weighing under 4,000lbs (like a beefy teardrop camper) but wouldn't be hauling a construction trailer or boat ever, only a waverunner or two. However, I will be moving in a few years driving from SoCal to Washington and will likely be making a few trips to move my shop and tools..most vintage cast iron so that's when towing will really come into play. I'll probably make at least two trips. But will also likely be using a moving company too.

I also know they made the FJ's with manual option so that swap to whatever tranny / x-fer in the XJ's would be possible too. Again, I'd probably prefer the V8 as there's "no replacement for displacement" but for a camp rig I'm wondering if I'd appreciate the extra few miles per gallon over what could be 200+ mile trips each way... i.e.; 400 to 500+ miles over a long weekend out and back. It adds up after awhile and I've seen plenty of guys complaining about the MPG of the 2UZ. I think it probably comes down to personal choice. I recall seeing a debate on them a few years ago and those who owned them were fine with them because that's what they wanted to begin with and of course the v8 guys gave them the thumbs down because they like their v8s. So barring that, I wonder if there are any big red flags with the 1GR that make it a complete deal breaker. All thoughts appreciated!

And yes, everything I do will be very well documented. I've written a few books in my life and have done technical writing. I enjoy helping others. I won't go ghost like a lot of guys do in forums. I hate when people do that.

 

[864runner]

@northboundtundra about to jump into this endeavor with my long traveled sequoia. Can you tell me how you setup the shift fork and slave cylinder on the housing?

 

[VT_Tundra]

Thanks for the quick overnight replies guys, that was awesome and your answers really helped narrow my search. I do want the 05-06 V8 but what are your opinions on the 1GR-FE v6 VVT-i 4.0L Tundra?? I know the first gen GR has some coil issues from what I've read but are otherwise good engines and the second gen GR has VVT-i on both intake / exhaust and gives a lot more horsepower (so an eventual swap upgrade could happen years down the road). I've seen a few come up lately and have debated the option since the gas mileage is a little better (but HP /towing is obviously not).

I wonder if there are any big red flags with the 1GR that make it a complete deal breaker. All thoughts appreciated!

And yes, everything I do will be very well documented. I've written a few books in my life and have done technical writing. I enjoy helping others. I won't go ghost like a lot of guys do in forums. I hate when people do that.

@MudWaspSR5 I know it's been a year and a half since you asked, but I thought it was still worth a reply since I have a lot of experience with the 1GR-FE manual trans Tundra. There were some head gasket issues on the early 1GR-FE engines, but Toyota had resolved that problem by early 2006. Aside from that, it's a great engine. I've owned two, an 05 Tundra with an automatic and an 06 Tundra with a manual. They have plenty of power (granted, both of my trucks were base model regular cabs, so they were only a touch over 4000 lbs). The 4.0 has essentially the same horsepower rating as the non-vvti 4.7, just not as much low-end torque.

I bought my 6-speed manual Tundra with the intention of doing a 4x4 conversion on it. Toyota only offered 4.0 Tundras with 2wd. I eventually figured out why. After a 3" lift, 34" tires, high clearance steel bumpers and rock sliders, I was ready to tackle the transmission and transfer case. My truck started with the RA60 transmission, the 2wd version of the 6-speed. The two 4x4 transmission options for the swap were the RA60F out of a 2nd gen Tacoma or the RA62F out of an FJ Cruiser. I went with the latter for its overdrive gear ratio of 0.799 (compared to 0.85 in the RA60F). This translates to running maybe 200 rpm less at highway speeds. As far as I know, the two transmissions are the same aside from the 6th gear ratio. There is a known issue with these transmissions where the clutch release bearing rides on a part of the transmission that is aluminum, digs in eventually and causes squealing noises. Toyota made some changes to address this problem, but the best solution is made by URD, with a stainless steel sleeve for the bearing to ride on and a different bearing that fits over the sleeve. I opted to add this upgrade while I was in there. Of course, the transmission mount didn't line up after the swap, so I had to buy a MIG welder and learn how to use it before the truck would run again. The center section of the transmission crossmember had to move down about an inch and forward about two inches.

Next up is the transfer case. The 6-speed manuals have an output shaft that is different from all of Toyota's other transmissions. It is bigger in diameter and has 22 splines (where everything else is either 21 or 23 splines) That means there are only two bolt-on options for the transfer case. All of the manual transmission FJ Cruisers had full time AWD cases (with a locking center diff) and the Tacoma 6-speeds all had transfer cases that were electronically shifted. Neither of those was what I wanted. I ended up buying a J-shift case from an auto trans FJ Cruiser and a t-case from a manual trans 2nd gen Tacoma, then I swapped the planetary and input shaft from the Tacoma case onto the FJ case. That gave me a J-shift case that would bolt on to my RA62F transmission.

Next up was re-gearing the rear diff to 4.56 and adding an Eaton TrueTrac. After that I upgraded the battery and added a winch. The truck is quite capable off-road at this point, but still 2wd.

The attachment points for the front diff are present on my frame, so I figured the rest would bolt on. I was wrong, the diff didn't clear the oil pan, not even close. Then someone pointed out that my engine had a 2wd oil pan. So I bought the 4x4 oil pans (upper and lower) for the 1GR-FE. I ended up having to cut out a big chunk (and weld in a reinforcement plate) of the crossmember that the steering rack is bolted to for the new oil pan to fit in. I did gain some oil capacity and have a much deeper sump, but the front diff still doesn't fit.

After some more research, I finally figured out that the layout of the Tundra frames requires a front sump oil pan for the front diff to fit where it is meant to sit. The 3.4 V6 and the 4.7 V8 both have front sump oil pans, but Toyota never made a front sump pan for the 4.0 V6. If you look at a 2nd gen Tacoma or an FJ Cruiser, they have the steering rack mounted to the front of the front crossmember, then the front diff behind that crossmember, followed by the rear sump oil pan then the 2nd crossmember. On the 4x4 1st gen Tundras, the front crossmember is followed by the front sump oil pan, then the front diff, then the 2nd crossmember which has the steering rack mounted behind it.

I've come to the conclusion that the only way to finish my 4x4 conversion is with a Solid Front Axle. I'll get there eventually, but it's going to take a while.

 

[northboundtundra]

Any luck with all that northbound? I'd specifically like to know details about the wiring with the 4wd truck vs 2wd. I'm about to buy a Tundra and plan to do this mod within the next six months. I own a 94 SR5 Ex-Cab 4x4 with the 3.0 and have long toyed with doing the 3.4L 5VZ swap most everyone does but after doing a lot of research found that A; they are hard to come by these days with any less than 200k miles and more importantly B; they are well known the be plagued by a head cracking issue between the back two left cylinders which some surmise is due to excess heat created by the exhaust crossover. When doing my clutch last year the old guy / owner at the flywheel shop discussed it with me and showed me several 5VZ heads with the cracks. He said it's common and a crapshoot to find one that isn't.

So at that point I decided the 5VZ wasn't worth the hassle or cost and then started looking into possible diesel swaps and of course the 1UZ or 2UZ. But then said why bother as I also really wanted to have access cab doors. If my old truck had them I'd consider keeping it but constantly moving the seat to get stuff out of the back, including my now 9 year old son and dog has let me know it's really time to move on. It's just too small and not having a rear door is a deal-breaker. So Tundra here I come. But like my old truck and plans I had for it, I really want to keep a manual and beef it up for camping and trails. I have the funds to do it all now so it's time to shop.

I plan to get an 05-06 with the VVT-i. I got a lot of questions answered in the 1st gen FB group about it and it seems it will be ok with minor changes/mods. So what I'm mostly hoping any of you could answer is should I shop for a 4wd tundra or 2wd. I saw above where @smokeysevin said it was easier to do with a 2wd but then don't you have to buy the front differential, axles, hubs, etc.. whereas if you buy a 4wd you will already have most of that built in? I'm probably looking to ditch the automatic transfer case though and go full manual for both transmission and the x-fer case with manual Aisin locking hubs..just like my old -current, and soon to be for sale- truck. But again... what's the optimal choice here?

I'd greatly appreciate the help with this as it's something I've been chewing on for the last few years. I had actually found @northboundtundra thread in 2019 right as he was doing it because I was already looking to do it myself at the time and was exploring the feasibility of ditching my truck for a Tundra to essentially have the same vehicle, just a little larger and with the access cab doors. The Tundra access cab wheelbase is just 6" longer than mine. The double cabs (which I call safari vehicles) are 18" longer which is just too much for my tastes and can't see them being good for 4wd trails.

Regardless, I'm definitely going to tackle this and soon. I hate automatics and especially hate the "3 on the tree" style too. I grew up with enough of those. And I hate the dash too. I'll be modding that right after the swap.

As for my skills to do this, I've self maintained my truck, cars, and motorcycles for 20 years. I'm a commercial pilot, flight simulator builder and I fabricate and weld..mig, stick, and tig, and have a pretty complete home shop. I also do a lot of CAD and design work. I have no doubts that I can do this in my driveway. I just need those few questions answered and likely some help with the wiring, especially if getting a 4wd tundra is the better way to go with this.

Thanks for the help. I hope someone reads all this.

PS -- Given Northbounds lack of response to others in the last year and the fact that I couldn't successfully tag him in this post I really hope he hasn't gone off reservation or got lost in the woods lol. We need your help dude!

Hey, I’m still around if you want or need help with anything. Sorry for the lack of response here. The 2UZ manual swap is still running strong. Haven’t had to do any work to it yet but I do want to add a front locker soon. If you message me on instagram I’ll probably respond sooner @northboundtundra

 

[northboundtundra]

@MudWaspSR5 I know it's been a year and a half since you asked, but I thought it was still worth a reply since I have a lot of experience with the 1GR-FE manual trans Tundra. There were some head gasket issues on the early 1GR-FE engines, but Toyota had resolved that problem by early 2006. Aside from that, it's a great engine. I've owned two, an 05 Tundra with an automatic and an 06 Tundra with a manual. They have plenty of power (granted, both of my trucks were base model regular cabs, so they were only a touch over 4000 lbs). The 4.0 has essentially the same horsepower rating as the non-vvti 4.7, just not as much low-end torque.

I bought my 6-speed manual Tundra with the intention of doing a 4x4 conversion on it. Toyota only offered 4.0 Tundras with 2wd. I eventually figured out why. After a 3" lift, 34" tires, high clearance steel bumpers and rock sliders, I was ready to tackle the transmission and transfer case. My truck started with the RA60 transmission, the 2wd version of the 6-speed. The two 4x4 transmission options for the swap were the RA60F out of a 2nd gen Tacoma or the RA62F out of an FJ Cruiser. I went with the latter for its overdrive gear ratio of 0.799 (compared to 0.85 in the RA60F). This translates to running maybe 200 rpm less at highway speeds. As far as I know, the two transmissions are the same aside from the 6th gear ratio. There is a known issue with these transmissions where the clutch release bearing rides on a part of the transmission that is aluminum, digs in eventually and causes squealing noises. Toyota made some changes to address this problem, but the best solution is made by URD, with a stainless steel sleeve for the bearing to ride on and a different bearing that fits over the sleeve. I opted to add this upgrade while I was in there. Of course, the transmission mount didn't line up after the swap, so I had to buy a MIG welder and learn how to use it before the truck would run again. The center section of the transmission crossmember had to move down about an inch and forward about two inches.

Next up is the transfer case. The 6-speed manuals have an output shaft that is different from all of Toyota's other transmissions. It is bigger in diameter and has 22 splines (where everything else is either 21 or 23 splines) That means there are only two bolt-on options for the transfer case. All of the manual transmission FJ Cruisers had full time AWD cases (with a locking center diff) and the Tacoma 6-speeds all had transfer cases that were electronically shifted. Neither of those was what I wanted. I ended up buying a J-shift case from an auto trans FJ Cruiser and a t-case from a manual trans 2nd gen Tacoma, then I swapped the planetary and input shaft from the Tacoma case onto the FJ case. That gave me a J-shift case that would bolt on to my RA62F transmission.

Next up was re-gearing the rear diff to 4.56 and adding an Eaton TrueTrac. After that I upgraded the battery and added a winch. The truck is quite capable off-road at this point, but still 2wd.

The attachment points for the front diff are present on my frame, so I figured the rest would bolt on. I was wrong, the diff didn't clear the oil pan, not even close. Then someone pointed out that my engine had a 2wd oil pan. So I bought the 4x4 oil pans (upper and lower) for the 1GR-FE. I ended up having to cut out a big chunk (and weld in a reinforcement plate) of the crossmember that the steering rack is bolted to for the new oil pan to fit in. I did gain some oil capacity and have a much deeper sump, but the front diff still doesn't fit.

After some more research, I finally figured out that the layout of the Tundra frames requires a front sump oil pan for the front diff to fit where it is meant to sit. The 3.4 V6 and the 4.7 V8 both have front sump oil pans, but Toyota never made a front sump pan for the 4.0 V6. If you look at a 2nd gen Tacoma or an FJ Cruiser, they have the steering rack mounted to the front of the front crossmember, then the front diff behind that crossmember, followed by the rear sump oil pan then the 2nd crossmember. On the 4x4 1st gen Tundras, the front crossmember is followed by the front sump oil pan, then the front diff, then the 2nd crossmember which has the steering rack mounted behind it.

I've come to the conclusion that the only way to finish my 4x4 conversion is with a Solid Front Axle. I'll get there eventually, but it's going to take a while.

Solid front axel would be sweet

 

[northboundtundra]

@northboundtundra about to jump into this endeavor with my long traveled sequoia. Can you tell me how you setup the shift fork and slave cylinder on the housing?

I used a the factory Toyota master cylinder and clutch pedal and drilled a hole in the bellhousing to route the line to a hydraulic throw out bearing, thus eliminating the slave cylinder and fork completely. It’s been working great with no issues