NorthstarTC650-n-Tundra

[kerry]

I should have been more specific. The complaint at RVNET was that that the failure occurred where the machined gear portion attaches to the galvanized handle so it wasn't exactly the gears stripping per se.
I too have considered gas struts. One issue I haven't resolved is how to get the roof down when there is no load on it since the gas struts would hold it up.

 

[eugene]

ok, mine the teeth stripped off the gears. I can see where they brazed the gear onto the handle but the teeth appear to be the weak point to me. Once one broke off then it would slip a bit and bang into another and beat it off pretty quick. How much did you pay for your replacement handle, Cheapest I found was $30

 

[kerry]

ok, mine the teeth stripped off the gears. I can see where they brazed the gear onto the handle but the teeth appear to be the weak point to me. Once one broke off then it would slip a bit and bang into another and beat it off pretty quick. How much did you pay for your replacement handle, Cheapest I found was $30

$31 plus shipping from Canvas Replacements. I tried buying just the machined portion from Harmony Enterprises (HECO) but they wouldn't sell it.

 

[kerry]

I bought a used 12" sailboat winch handle on Ebay for $10 and a replacement HECO crank from Canvas Replacements. Ground off the weld and removed the machined part from the crank. Removed the lock mechanism from the winch handle. Drilled out the bronze to a size just slightly smaller than the machined gear. Used a vice to push the machined gear into the winch handle. Installed two 1/8" roll pins to hold it securely.

 

[kerry]

Tried out the sailboat winch handle/crank today. It's a quantum leap above the OE crank.
I also figured out why the gears may be stripping. The replacement crank I recently purchased had the gears chamfered on the forward end. My original crank's gears are not chamfered. The replacement slides into the mechanism much easier as a result of the chamfering but the gears lose about 1/3 of their meshing area with the chamfering which probably results in a tendency to strip.

 

[eugene]

Check the two bolts on either side of the crank too. I had removed them and used longer bolts to hold a block of wood there for my bed divider. that made the cover tight and the slides weren't as smooth as they should be. It seems the enclosed nut on the back stops just before putting too much pressure on the front cover, with different bolts/nuts it was too much.

 

[Freedom 49]

Wow - that thing is CLEAN!!! Looks like you guys popped a bottle of champagne to celebrate?


Be cautious about overloading the lift system.

 

[zidaro]

Wow - that thing is CLEAN!!! Looks like you guys popped a bottle of champagne to celebrate?


Be cautious about overloading the lift system.

YES, we like the bubbly!!!!
And i agree, the suspension is in need of improvement. We try to travel light.
I have an ICON stage 5 kit in my garage, and if we would stop using the camper every weekend maybe i could spend some time working on my truck. Soon as that is on I am planning on installing a custom airbag setup on the rear.

 

[johng]

Nice setup!
Is the porch in the 2nd picture of post 18 cantilevered out from under the camper? I've been looking for porch ideas, and that looks perfect for what I want.

 

[zidaro]

Its drilled into the base lift platform (2x1.5") that i had to build up to get the camper in the truck. Tundras have the same taller bedsides as the F150's.
It was a very hasty job, but oddly has been working great as a mini porch. Comes off with 2 screws. I will be making a much nicer one in the future that is a bit larger, easily removable, and hinged to fold in half and slide down the bed-side.
If you really want i can take some better shots of it.

 

[macrylinda]

I have tried emailing Carli a couple of times about fitment of long travel airbags to F150s and have never received a response. In all fairness, everyone has issues with spam/junk filters and I never picked up the phone. It wouldn't be difficult to fabricate something up anyway. I would be interested what they would sell the bags for alone.

Camper looks great and sounds like you got a great deal. I've got a Dakota 4 door shortbed 4X4 that I've been trying to locate a good clean TC-650 with the Dakota option. I don't think they maufactured many of these. I live in Arkansas not many truck campers in our area.

 

[dependencies]

With Air assisted suspension You should get that 3" back
which is exactly what this one does
at around 80PSI.

I leave the tailgate in place as I'm too lazy to bother unbolting it each time, and I don't think it makes so much difference to the ride.
was told however that it may get stone chipped if left on

On mine the rear is held vertically down by short substantial chain and turnbuckle just before the tailgate hinges on the load bed,

the front I prefer (as I think you have) a pair of cargo straps down between the tub/cab onto the 'frame' where there happen to be some convenient brackets with eyes,
already on a Nissan Navara

 

[zidaro]

OK, going solar. It will be an interesting voyage, cuz info. all seems vague and contradictory once i start looking around. Pieced my own kit together.

Using a 100W roof mounted panel from AMSolar.
http://www.amsolar.com/rv100.html

Morning Star 15Amp MPPT Sunsaver with the remote panel and battery Temp sensor.

http://www.thesolarstore.com/charge...-p-462.html?osCsid=uhq9hink3blofcqjci2g3i86b7

Should provide me with plenty of power to keep the battery charged on multiple nights of basic light use, my ARB 50Q fridge DC, water pump, the dometic fridge vent fan, kid dvd player/cell/mac charging on occasion, maybe some other small use (read: blender )

8guage cable from panel to controller, 4guage from controller to battery.

25AMP fuse close to battery:

Using AMSolar roof Mounts and pivots to mount to the roof, but still debating if i should mount these to crossbars on a Thule roofrack rail system. Last thing i want to see is my panel skipping down a dirt road in my mirror.
http://www.amsolar.com/mountsandtiltbars.html

Have not entirely decided on how to penetrate the roof with 2 8g. cables and enough slack to allow raise/lowering of roof.

Well, this is the system, install and pics to come over the next 30+ days and plan on it being running/functional for a mid Nov. weeklong trip to Saline Valley.

Opinions are welcome, esp. since the drilling has not started yet

 

[Regcabguy]

With Air assisted suspension You should get that 3" back
which is exactly what this one does
at around 80PSI.

I leave the tailgate in place as I'm too lazy to bother unbolting it each time, and I don't think it makes so much difference to the ride.
was told however that it may get stone chipped if left on

On mine the rear is held vertically down by short substantial chain and turnbuckle just before the tailgate hinges on the load bed,

the front I prefer (as I think you have) a pair of cargo straps down between the tub/cab onto the 'frame' where there happen to be some convenient brackets with eyes,
already on a Nissan Navara

80 psi in the bags will definitely level it out,but at that pressure you're bouncing off big bumpstops with zero give.

 

[zidaro]

think i got the roof penetration figured out. Going down the path that sailboats use to pass cables thru hulls. Watertight and allows multiple cables to penetrate (2 8g in my case)
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|49758|112306|316467&id=1351907

Also just picked this up from Adventure Trailers:
http://www.adventuretrailers.com/awningfiamma.html
going on the rear, mounted on top vertical. 13# weight.
thanks Martyn, gonna be torture waiting the 2 weeks for it to get built and show up

install and pics will be coming.