Keep the updates coming, and I'd love to see more of your drawings, there amazing.
I have been hoping you would continue this thread. It went a little sideways awhile back but hopefully it can stay back on track now. I've enjoyed watching your van progress, watching problems come up and get solved, and seeing the trips you've taken out on. Also your photos are always amazing!
Keep up the progress!
Alright then. We'll keep the thread from going sideways and keep updating.
I considered welding the latch that came with the clamp but decided to make a new one as the gap was a bit too far. I had to really shape the catch to get a positive close and I remade the delrin plate to include a lip so that the the spare would lock into place. I would shape the delrin with the file so that the carrier would just slide in and lock in place. That was accentuated with the way the gas strut was set up so that the last two inches of travel serve to close, rather than the open.
The catch plate did the job of taking the bulk of the weight at a place below and near to the frame mount of the bumper. I mounted up the spare and noticed something that I didn't anticipate - the spare rocked for and aft. Not much, maybe an inch or two, but it was an aspect of the build that I didn't expect and I was really disappointed about it. I felt like I'd failed. All that work and my design didn't anticipate the torsion that the 100lbs of tire and 50lbs of mount would exert up that high.
I drove around for a day trying to convince myself that it wasn't that bad but I'd posted a video to Instagram and a couple of folks mentioned to me that they'd had carriers fail once the rigs went off road.
I got more depressed. I can't stand failing.
I looked at the few offerings out there and noticed that Aluminess pivoted off their bumper but also near the door hinge. I didn't want to build a second pivot - the first is more than strong enough - but I wanted to lock in the spare and improve the strength. Maybe this was the answer. After all, good artists copy - great artists steal.
Back to the drawing... notebook.
The rear hinge uses fairly long bolts and is made of 1/4" steel so the door gap has room. I decided to make a brace that mounted off the hinge plate to take advantage of the strength of the door mount.
I had 1/4" steel stock and cut and welded two pieces together to shape them at the same time.
I used the mill to make them even and to set the curve of the plate to match the hinge so it would fit closely.
I welded the tube sections in place with a 1/2" stainless rod in place so that the alignment would be good.
It may look like there's only a small amount of weld but the bottom plates are welded all the way around the top clamping plate - there's a lot of weld there.
I made sure to tuck the assembly in next to the hinge so that it wouldn't stick out and interfere with the door.
The hardest part of this build was the welding of the brace from the catch I'd made to the holder. Too much weld on one side or the other and the pin would bind or not even fit. I had to weld small sections back and forth to keep the alignment.
I made a small cap on the 1/2" stainless rod i was using as it kept dropping through...
After an hour or so of fitting, welding, adjusting and checking I had my brace. It felt remarkably strong, better than I had hoped, and the pin slides in with perfect alignment. My friend Taylor had told me that he'd had the lower latch I was using open on the trail so I figured this was both a good way to strengthen the mount but also a fail safe catch for the spare.
To keep in touch with my buddy Ben when we go out I'd bought a CB and needed to mount the antenna. I didn't like most of the mounts that put the antenna on the hood so decided to mount it off the new brace.
I cleaned up and packed the bearings, scrubbed off the rust that had formed on the spindle and painted the whole thing in bed liner to match the bumpers.
Once the antenna was mounted the pin was hard to access so I welded a loop of stainless to the pin. There's no looseness in the pin - the fit is snug and the loop doesn't move or touch the paint.
Finally I mounted the tire and tested it out.
Bombproof.
Not only does it keep the spare from rocking but it adds a third place to distribute the weight of the tire. The spare is so locked in to the whole rear end that the kids will climb up the spare to get to the roof and have found that the spare makes a very comfortable seat. I stood on the spare and could bounce the whole van and there was no slop or movement.
I felt really good about fixing this. Way better probably than if it had just worked the first time. Each time I make something on the van I learn a bit more about it. Each time I make the van better and a bit more "mine".
This whole build took almost two weeks and I managed to finish it exactly one day before we left for our trip to Colorado. I rotated the tires (I rotate the spare to increase the life of the tires) and had the oil changed and then we cleaned the van, Rain-X'd the windshield, replaced the tail light bulbs with LED's - much brighter - and loaded up with podcasts for our 5th trip in the van to Colorado but our first in the winter. Time to see if the van would work as well in snow as it does in sand.
I'll post up some of the trip photos next time but I have to say it's really nice to get the spare out of the back of the van. That extra room really made a difference and I like the look of the spare up high with all the clearance you could want for the tail lights.
Gregor