OBI Dweller Review and Discussion
- Thread starter gendlert
- Start date
Ok home and initial impressions.
Only a 15 mile drive home, 10 freeway. Tracked fine at 65, got passed by a simi while I was passing a Class A (4 lane), no white knuckle craziness. Trailer 100% empty, no water in it ect, new off the lot.
Ok the keys, OMG seriously there are how many?!?! LOL I'll have to figure something out it's like 10 keys!
Towed really well, got 13 mpg on the way home, again just 15 miles and flat but way better than my normal 8.
My last trailer was a cargo camper toy hauler, it was 6100 with all my camping stuff in it, no water no food, tandem axle. Was heavy, really heavy. I rested on the sumo springs when hooked up to it. I had 1" at least free space with the OBI hooked up.
Storage is good in this trailer, my generator fits in the front bin (sweet smell of propane exhaust for your morning coffee), blocks, tent pegs ect all that goes in the front. Power cables all on the top driver side slide. All the water hoses sewer connections etc in the lower. My food bins I use for plates, etc and coffee pot all fit perfect in the front kitchen spot. I changed up the straps on the refer.
Bout all I got done, wish I could camp this weekend but have to work.
McHitch is cool, neat to hook up, def easier than a ball mount. Do have to get the weight off the pin to unhook.
Super impressed with this little thing.
Only a 15 mile drive home, 10 freeway. Tracked fine at 65, got passed by a simi while I was passing a Class A (4 lane), no white knuckle craziness. Trailer 100% empty, no water in it ect, new off the lot.
Ok the keys, OMG seriously there are how many?!?! LOL I'll have to figure something out it's like 10 keys!
Towed really well, got 13 mpg on the way home, again just 15 miles and flat but way better than my normal 8.
My last trailer was a cargo camper toy hauler, it was 6100 with all my camping stuff in it, no water no food, tandem axle. Was heavy, really heavy. I rested on the sumo springs when hooked up to it. I had 1" at least free space with the OBI hooked up.
Storage is good in this trailer, my generator fits in the front bin (sweet smell of propane exhaust for your morning coffee), blocks, tent pegs ect all that goes in the front. Power cables all on the top driver side slide. All the water hoses sewer connections etc in the lower. My food bins I use for plates, etc and coffee pot all fit perfect in the front kitchen spot. I changed up the straps on the refer.
Bout all I got done, wish I could camp this weekend but have to work.
McHitch is cool, neat to hook up, def easier than a ball mount. Do have to get the weight off the pin to unhook.
Super impressed with this little thing.
DesertMarmot
Member
DesertMarmot
Member
The lock is for the McHitch. I’ve not used mine I think it goes on the cross pin end. The brackets are for the awning if you want to pin the legs back to the wall of your camper. The white tubes if you have any are for draining the ac condensation. Go through and check water connections and bolts inside. Have fun a great camper
Yes as Kansas said it fits on the mchitch pin.
I pulled that off and use one keyed to my truck, but it’s a nice add on feature.
Does anyone have any solutions for how to mount a bike to a Dweller. Ideally something mounted on the tongue as long as it didn't interfere with sharp turns. The other alternative is something that mounts to the rear spare tire, but that might be awkward when having to lower the spare when extending the back.
CowboyKyle
Active member
@RJWB used some kind of rack. DM him or check back through his posts.
DesertMarmot
Member
Look at my post #95 and #96 in this thread. I’ve been hauling bikes on this tongue mounted rack for 2+ years and 10k+ miles. It has worked out great.
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BruderMaximus
Member
Hello!
I bought (essentially) an OBI Dweller 15. I got mine from Off Road Camper ORC out of Brownsburg Indiana. Houdini 15S. Can I join your thread or is this Dweller only?
I'm having an electrical issue and need some help.
My 12v control panel by the door started with the volt meter acting weird. volts would float all over 10.9-12.5v randomly seemingly. But, the amps were solid and changed with loads accurately. So just a weird volt gauge behavior.
But tonight i went out and half the 12v panel is dead. the step works, main 12v switch lights and I hear the relay click, fridge switch lights and works, the rest.... dead. water gauges dead, plugs, lights, water pump switches all dead, with no lights on the switches either. However, no blown fuses in the fuse panel. But when i pull the fuses on those dead circuits, the little red light for those fuses (that key you know you have a blown fuse) don't light.
bad cell in battery?? Bad relay??
I put a fluke meter directly to all three batteries and each is showing 13.4v steady. (they were still connected to the bus bars.. i didn't disconnect the batteries.)
The volt meter, when working, did seem to be higher or lower based on sun/shade on panels ( keep in mind i'm plugged into shore power and the 2000w Renogy Inverter Charger underbunk shows the batteries full and 13.4v
Any help of what to test or where to start would be helpful!!
I've been reading through the threads, very helpful. To share my own experience towing, I pulled the passenger side spare tire (to reduce back end weight) and bought a 10" drop shank for my F250 to level the camper while pulling and that made a huge difference. I do have load leveler hitch but no sway control. when I towed it home empty on a 6" drop shank (camper was tongue high) and that was a nail biter every time an 18 wheeler passed me... back end was all over the place. constantly used the brake controller on the truck to straighten the sway out. I also found letting off the gas lightly before an 18 wheeler got to the back of the trailer, then giving throttle back really helped with the sway. Start with ensuring the camper is level when pulling (proper shank drop) then all the other stuff after that.., shocks, load levelers, sway control bars, remove a spare tire, empty rear water tank. etc
Anyway, thought I would contribute on something and then ask for some help on my electrical issue
thanks!!
I bought (essentially) an OBI Dweller 15. I got mine from Off Road Camper ORC out of Brownsburg Indiana. Houdini 15S. Can I join your thread or is this Dweller only?
I'm having an electrical issue and need some help.
My 12v control panel by the door started with the volt meter acting weird. volts would float all over 10.9-12.5v randomly seemingly. But, the amps were solid and changed with loads accurately. So just a weird volt gauge behavior.
But tonight i went out and half the 12v panel is dead. the step works, main 12v switch lights and I hear the relay click, fridge switch lights and works, the rest.... dead. water gauges dead, plugs, lights, water pump switches all dead, with no lights on the switches either. However, no blown fuses in the fuse panel. But when i pull the fuses on those dead circuits, the little red light for those fuses (that key you know you have a blown fuse) don't light.
bad cell in battery?? Bad relay??
I put a fluke meter directly to all three batteries and each is showing 13.4v steady. (they were still connected to the bus bars.. i didn't disconnect the batteries.)
The volt meter, when working, did seem to be higher or lower based on sun/shade on panels ( keep in mind i'm plugged into shore power and the 2000w Renogy Inverter Charger underbunk shows the batteries full and 13.4v
Any help of what to test or where to start would be helpful!!
I've been reading through the threads, very helpful. To share my own experience towing, I pulled the passenger side spare tire (to reduce back end weight) and bought a 10" drop shank for my F250 to level the camper while pulling and that made a huge difference. I do have load leveler hitch but no sway control. when I towed it home empty on a 6" drop shank (camper was tongue high) and that was a nail biter every time an 18 wheeler passed me... back end was all over the place. constantly used the brake controller on the truck to straighten the sway out. I also found letting off the gas lightly before an 18 wheeler got to the back of the trailer, then giving throttle back really helped with the sway. Start with ensuring the camper is level when pulling (proper shank drop) then all the other stuff after that.., shocks, load levelers, sway control bars, remove a spare tire, empty rear water tank. etc
Anyway, thought I would contribute on something and then ask for some help on my electrical issue
thanks!!Attachments
BruderMaximus
Member
Ive had this problem in texas and I have a suggestion. The vent from the fridge location in the pull out bay into the back of a drawer inside camper does NOT get the heat out. I dropped a temp gauge in there and the fridge compartment was 135°. I think those ice cove fridges have a high temp cut off? Try plugging the fridge into DC inside your garage and see if it works great there. it may just be that that compartment is overheated.
BruderMaximus
Member
my 12v panel crapped out. that volt gauge went dead and plugs, pump, lights no longer work. oddly the fridge and main 12v switch still work. no fuses blown. Any ideas??
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