OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

It seems like an awfully small trailer to NEED a 50 amp service.... does anyone have any insight on that? Or if it will function without issue on a 30 amp service?
Yea seriously, but that means it just has better wiring and thicker gauge so no complaints here. I have no doubt that 30amp service would be just fine and likely even less than that. The AC is only 9000 btu so fairly small and efficient and everything else runs off the internal invertor and batteries. So unless you have tons hooked up to the outlets at the same time on full blast then no worries. I just ordered a 50amp female to normal male plug on Amazon for $13 and I have no doubt it will run everything just fine even on a normal 15-20amp circuit.
 
It seems like an awfully small trailer to NEED a 50 amp service.... does anyone have any insight on that? Or if it will function without issue on a 30 amp service?
I think that was another change in January? I say that because I thought I heard in a few videos that it had a 30amp connecter. It wasn't until I actually bought it that I noticed the 50 amp connecter.
 
I have a built-in Trailer Brake Controller (TBC) on my truck, and have to adjust the gain on the controller for each trailer depending on the weight. I'm assuming your TBC would be adjustable as well. From my manual, here's how to get that adjustment right:

GAIN
The GAIN setting is used to set the trailer brake control for the specific towing condition and should be changed as towing conditions change. Changes to towing conditions include trailer load, vehicle load, road conditions and weather.

Adjusting GAIN
NOTE: This should only be performed in a traffic free environment at speeds of approximately 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h).
  1. Make sure the trailer brakes are in good working condition, functioning normally and properly adjusted. See your trailer dealer if necessary.
  2. Hook up the trailer and make the electrical connections according to the trailer manufacturer's instructions.
  3. In a traffic-free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface at a speed of 20–25 mph (30–40 km/h) and squeeze the manual brake control lever completely.
  4. If the trailer wheels lockup (indicated by squealing tires), reduce the GAIN setting; if the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the GAIN setting.
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the GAIN setting is at a point just below trailer wheel lockup. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lockup may not be attainable even with the maximum GAIN setting.
It's kinda fun.
Thanks for these instructions. This is my first trailer requiring a brake controller. I do have a gain setting for my controller. But the instructions that came with my controller were a bit different. It had the drive 20-25 mph on a flat road away from traffic, but it just said to do that and then adjust the gain. No Mention of the "just below lockup". This is super helpful. Thanks.
 

gendlert

Well-known member
Yea seriously, but that means it just has better wiring and thicker gauge so no complaints here. I have no doubt that 30amp service would be just fine and likely even less than that. The AC is only 9000 btu so fairly small and efficient and everything else runs off the internal invertor and batteries. So unless you have tons hooked up to the outlets at the same time on full blast then no worries. I just ordered a 50amp female to normal male plug on Amazon for $13 and I have no doubt it will run everything just fine even on a normal 15-20amp circuit.
Yup. I've run the AC in the driveway on my 15A circuit with an extension cord and the same adapter. It works just fine.

You know what they say: "There's no such thing as underkill." :)
 
So I just tested my small 2200w max 1800w running generator and it was able to run the AC on full blast in 95 degree weather so that's exciting. That size is perfect to store in the front bin and efficient enough if I absolutely needed it off-grid even though the noise is annoying.
 

Robustoobi34

New member
So I just tested my small 2200w max 1800w running generator and it was able to run the AC on full blast in 95 degree weather so that's exciting. That size is perfect to store in the front bin and efficient enough if I absolutely needed it off-grid even though the noise is annoying.

May I ask what brand/model you are using, please?
 

ryels1983

New member
FYI 2500w Generac isn't enough to run the AC. Just bought one and the ac shuts down and when I plug it into the wall everything is fine.
 
I had exactly the same experience with a Sportsman 2200.
Mine shut down the first time so I reset it, made sure it wasn't on economy setting and then it got going and kept running on my small 2200w generator. Try again and make sure it's warmed up first maybe or try a few times, maybe turn everything else off (I didn't but also wasn't running the fridge at the time, just testing the AC).
 

gendlert

Well-known member
Does everyone else have a gaggle of keys like this?

Heck yes.

Dweller: voted the #1 camper by 9 out of 10 janitors and wardens worldwide.

But really, we only keep the door key with us, a set of the rest live in the trailer so I don't have to carry them, and the 273 spares are in the house.
df13e7eca7954a2a678c633368aa5c7f.jpg
 
Last edited:

gendlert

Well-known member
New question: does your entry door lock suck pretty bad? I can't get mine to lock from the outside. And if it locks from the inside, I'm stuck reaching through the window to let myself out. I really, really hate that.
From the outside:
- Door only opens if you push handle to the right.
- In order to lock the door with the key from the outside, you have to push the handle left to allow the key to engage the lock.

From the inside:
- Door only opens if you lift the handle up.
- In order to lock the door, you have to push the handle down to be able to twist the lock all the way.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,034
Messages
2,901,390
Members
229,411
Latest member
IvaBru
Top