OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

Xid_az

Member
Just purchased the iceco Go20 fridge for additional interior fridge space. I decided to put it in the front pantry area, seems like a pretty decent location.Door opens up good with pitch of the ceiling of pantry. Drilled hole through flooring to run the 12 volt wire to connect up to the 12 volt cigarette style connector in the same compartment as the larger exterior fridge. converted the existing outdoor fridge connector to an anderson connector. I did not want to lose additional cabinetry with the 12 volt fridge upgrade Obi does. I like the look of their fridge upgrade, just did not want to lose that particular space. With this option, we are not fixed to 1 location. Maybe this helps if any Dweller Fellers are looking for additional fridge space ideas.
Thanks for posting this. This may be a great alternate solution to getting a large 75/96QT ICECO or other brand. I currently own a 77Qt Lifetime High Performance Cooler (https://www.lifetime.com/lifetime-90903-lifetime-77-quart-high-performance-cooler) . I've used this on may 10 day trips into southern Utah during the summer, where daytime temps are 90-100 outside, probably higher inside my truck. I always pre-cool the cooler and then fill with frozen 1pt water bottles and freeze any other item that can handle it. With that setup, opening the cooler 3-5 times a day when I'm truck bound and 0 times when I'm out on a backpack, i'm usually in the upper 40s in the cooler by the time my trip is over.
We're using the Lifetime cooler now with the Dweller and my thought would be to use that smaller ICECO as a freezer only for water bottles/ice packs. Then just rotate the frozen bottle into the Lifetime to keep the cold going. I believe the Lifetime has WAY better insulation than the ICECO, so this should reduce the overall amount of power needed to keep things cold. Anyone every try this method?
 

RJWB

Member
Just curious what your touge weight is when your totally loaded and balanced like that? You mentioned these rigs are designed to run fully loaded so at the end of a trip you have to stop and fill your fresh water before you head home? Always wondered if the axel line is to far forward? Moral if the story . You need a half ton truck at minimum for a d15.
I haven't actually taken the time to stop at a scale, it's on my to do list. When camping I utilize my rear tank first and then the front second. It's very rare to use all of the water in both tanks and of course the gray water tank is now full at the front of the trailer. I agree a half ton truck is the way to go. I have an 11,400 pound towing capacity 1,800 pound load capacity. I'm sure I'm using 100% of the load capacity. I'm not a fan of towing anywhere near your towing capacity Max. I wouldn't go above 80%. I guess I may be cheating when I say I don't have any sway. My 2022 tundra comes with anti-sway controls. The tundra is supposed to flash a slip indicator warning light when the sway control system kicks in. I've never seen it come on.

Trailer Sway Control
Helps the driver to control trailer sway by selectively applying brake pressure for individual wheels and reducing driving torque when trailer sway is detected.
 

HyaSky

New member
Picking up our new dweller15 tomorrow. Very excited! How common is it to encounter electric charging/surge issues? Should we invest in a surge protector, one with brown out protection? If so any recommendations? Also we’re looking into extended warrenties but not sure we want to go that route unless people have found them worthwhile…. Any advice appreciated!
 

Xid_az

Member
Picking up our new dweller15 tomorrow. Very excited! How common is it to encounter electric charging/surge issues? Should we invest in a surge protector, one with brown out protection? If so any recommendations? Also we’re looking into extended warrenties but not sure we want to go that route unless people have found them worthwhile…. Any advice appreciated!
I have not had the opportunity to try it yet, but I picked up this surge protector just to be safe: Carforu 30 Amp to 50 Amp RV Adapter with Surge Protection, 8000 Joules Surge Protector RV Circuit Analyzer with Waterproof Cover, Guard Surge Power Voltage Protector for Camper Trailer (30M/50F) Amazon product number B0C9JCC8HV
 

S J

Member
Picking up our new dweller15 tomorrow. Very excited! How common is it to encounter electric charging/surge issues? Should we invest in a surge protector, one with brown out protection? If so any recommendations? Also we’re looking into extended warrenties but not sure we want to go that route unless people have found them worthwhile…. Any advice appreciated!
Yes, get a surge protector !!!
 

S J

Member
I was just checking out the same battery. Let me know what you come up with as a fix to hide the hole from the Renogy controller.
Glad to hear you like the extra power. What appliances are your running ? and for how long ? The existing agm batteries do not do as well as I was hoping. Maybe because they sat on the rv lot for 1 year. How much where you asking for agm and controller on craigslist ?

Thank you !
It seems like Victron has the best clearances of the mppt controllers. Renogy is 6" top and bottom and victron is basically 4". That makes a big difference with the dweller storage space.
 

HyaSky

New member
I have not had the opportunity to try it yet, but I picked up this surge protector just to be safe: Carforu 30 Amp to 50 Amp RV Adapter with Surge Protection, 8000 Joules Surge Protector RV Circuit Analyzer with Waterproof Cover, Guard Surge Power Voltage Protector for Camper Trailer (30M/50F) Amazon product number B0C9JCC8HV
The one I'm looking at is an EMS system (so has the brown out as well as surge protection) for 50 amp connection:
 
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S J

Member
Thank you ! The 15 is a little different. I will check out and see what I can do.
I just installed the victron mppt 100/30 charge controller. Victron seems to make the smallest charge controllers. I am still confused with the battery stuff. What battery presets setting would u think i should use with the stock agm batteries ? I just ordered the li time 100ah lifepo4 on amazon today. but in the meantime I would like to have the correct settings. I am not a big fan of the blue tooth stuff, I would prefer to not take my phone with my while out camping. I will admit it is kinda nice though.

Thx, for your input !
 

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bjammin101

New member
So I have not been able to get the hot water to work since we have bought the camper in June. We have a trip planned in a couple of weeks and will need it since it will finally get cooler down here in the south.

So I opened everything up and discoverd one of the wires came out of it's crimp. This was the red wire of the connector I am holding with my thumb in the first picture. After trying to electrocute myself 4 times trying to figure out how to shut off the power completely on the camper, I finally just disconnected all batteries to work on it. I connected black to black and white to red and then when I attempted to connect the batteries again. It arched... So I switched the wires and that seemed to be the answer to not catch the whole thing on fire. After getting it all back together, I started getting the W44H code which means "# 44 Undervoltage, battery voltage too low < 10.0 V". However, the battery was showing 12.7 v at the time. The water was on, pump on, propane on, etc.

Anyone have further ideas?
 

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CowboyKyle

Active member
So I have not been able to get the hot water to work since we have bought the camper in June. We have a trip planned in a couple of weeks and will need it since it will finally get cooler down here in the south.

So I opened everything up and discoverd one of the wires came out of it's crimp. This was the red wire of the connector I am holding with my thumb in the first picture. After trying to electrocute myself 4 times trying to figure out how to shut off the power completely on the camper, I finally just disconnected all batteries to work on it. I connected black to black and white to red and then when I attempted to connect the batteries again. It arched... So I switched the wires and that seemed to be the answer to not catch the whole thing on fire. After getting it all back together, I started getting the W44H code which means "# 44 Undervoltage, battery voltage too low < 10.0 V". However, the battery was showing 12.7 v at the time. The water was on, pump on, propane on, etc.

Anyone have further ideas?
Are these wires pretty easy to get to? I could check my configuration this weekend and measure voltage for you.
 

Treefarmer1

Active member
I just installed the victron mppt 100/30 charge controller. Victron seems to make the smallest charge controllers. I am still confused with the battery stuff. What battery presets setting would u think i should use with the stock agm batteries ? I just ordered the li time 100ah lifepo4 on amazon today. but in the meantime I would like to have the correct settings. I am not a big fan of the blue tooth stuff, I would prefer to not take my phone with my while out camping. I will admit it is kinda nice though.

Thx, for your input !
You have a preset function for AGM charging (top selection in your photo). The three phases of AGM charging are pretty standard (bulk, absorb, float), so that selection should do it for you. It will also have an equalization function. If you return your AGM batteries back to 100% every two to three weeks (or more often than that), there's no need to use the equalization function. You're going to really like the lithium batteries as an AGM replacement. They say AGMs can be drawn down to 50%, but if you want to take care of them for the long term, don't go below 70% on a regular basis.
 
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lostoldtruck

New member
So I have not been able to get the hot water to work since we have bought the camper in June. We have a trip planned in a couple of weeks and will need it since it will finally get cooler down here in the south.

So I opened everything up and discoverd one of the wires came out of it's crimp. This was the red wire of the connector I am holding with my thumb in the first picture. After trying to electrocute myself 4 times trying to figure out how to shut off the power completely on the camper, I finally just disconnected all batteries to work on it. I connected black to black and white to red and then when I attempted to connect the batteries again. It arched... So I switched the wires and that seemed to be the answer to not catch the whole thing on fire. After getting it all back together, I started getting the W44H code which means "# 44 Undervoltage, battery voltage too low < 10.0 V". However, the battery was showing 12.7 v at the time. The water was on, pump on, propane on, etc.

Anyone have further ideas?
My frig was acting up on my first trip (like not geting cold) so i packed up came home , talked with dealer and i forgot to turn on inverter / charger after i did that it started working again. ( also my voltage drop out also).
 

CowboyKyle

Active member
My frig was acting up on my first trip (like not geting cold) so i packed up came home , talked with dealer and i forgot to turn on inverter / charger after i did that it started working again. ( also my voltage drop out also).
Just curious - what does the fridge and inverter have to do with each other?
 

bjammin101

New member
Are these wires pretty easy to get to? I could check my configuration this weekend and measure voltage for you.
Yes, it is directly under the bed. I had to open up thr entire back end to have enough space to remove the panel and gain access to the truma and water pump though.

And also agree, you don't need to turn on the inverter for the fridge to run. You only need to have the 12v power switch turned on the fridge switch on your main panel inside the door.
 

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