OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

Treefarmer1

Active member
Here is my 1990 Featherlite enclosed trailer that was wrapped in 2003.

The trailer has sat outside every day since 2003. The worst fading and material cracking is with the white areas on the trailer.

Wrap technology has infinitely changed for the better since 2003 with much better UV protection options, installation techniques and wrap materials.

With a WRAP NO BODY SHOP JAIL with you being a Dollar waiting on a Nickel no count deadbeat body/paint person. Wrap completed in 1-3 days. INFINITE design and color options with a WRAP that you could never afford to duplicate in paint. A WRAP is easily removable if and when you want to sell the vehicle/trailer or change designs. Maintenance is wash and keep the wrap edges sealed once a year.

With ALL a WRAP has to offer my next paint job will be a WRAP!





View attachment 813024
Any recommendation on where you would have a wrap done or what specific skills to ask about (other than just customer reviews)?
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
Here is my 1990 Featherlite enclosed trailer that was wrapped in 2003.

The trailer has sat outside every day since 2003. The worst fading and material cracking is with the white areas on the trailer.

Wrap technology has infinitely changed for the better since 2003 with much better UV protection options, installation techniques and wrap materials.

With a WRAP NO BODY SHOP JAIL with you being a Dollar waiting on a Nickel no count deadbeat body/paint person. Wrap completed in 1-3 days. INFINITE design and color options with a WRAP that you could never afford to duplicate in paint. A WRAP is easily removable if and when you want to sell the vehicle/trailer or change designs. Maintenance is wash and keep the wrap edges sealed once a year.

With ALL a WRAP has to offer my next paint job will be a WRAP!






View attachment 813024

Sounds like someone is in the WRAP business and we struck a nerve. Not that I could really understand the point. I believe Treefarmers point is if you have a composite side walled off road trailer (in thier case lived in full time) why put a wrap on it if it doesn't last do to exposure and or pinstripes from trees or shrubs. Not that they are pro paint. Composite frp sidewalls don't need paint or wraps. Doesn't look like your trailer is an off roader. FYI aren't your white areas just white vynal?
 
Not sure which issue you mean.
In the photo of the side (the camper is current closed up so using an old photo)... on the side piece, where it's at the 90 degree angle by the latch, it's bent a little so the bolt latch won't lock in place. For the roof, the metal handle you use to push it up won't lock into place anymore.
I was hoping to shed some light on your rear latch issue since our Conqueror has the same construction and hardware to the rear pop-out. Our issue with our UEV-14 was the two clasps that hold the roof section down would not hold on their own when we picked it up a year ago. They eventually "settled in" but we still put in the clevis pins out of habit.
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
When I first walked through a Dweller a while back I thought that interior hardware that opens and closes the roof seemed a bit cheap. The author of this string jumped all over my sheeet. That said doesn't seem like that many folks are having issues.
 

tjtx

Member
Re: Lithium Battery Upgrade question

I‘m looking to upgrade to three 100ah batteries on my D13. Is this just a straight drop-in procedure or do you need to upgrade the wiring for the lithium batteries ? I‘m aware of the change needed for the solar controller for the change from the AGM batteries to Lithium batteries. Is there any other things that need to be considered when making this upgrade ?

Just swapping both the solar+inverter to Lithium mode.. The inverter/charger kinda sucks, and won't charge until you hit basically empty, so I'd recommend setting the charging voltages manually in it so you don't end up totally dead after 4-5 cloudy days in a row.


~Page 22 in the PDF, you want to set the battery to user-defined, then set option 94 to ALb, then set your charging voltages in 26/27.

I put in some cheap Weize 100ah LiFePo4 batteries and they've been fine so far, but they are cheap and kinda sus. If they fail I'll probably move to something more reputable, but so far so good (~6mo or so)

The only real drawback is measuring voltage to determine state-of-charge for Lithium batteries sucks. Having a shunt to actually measure input/output is way more accurate and I'll probably be spending a bunch of time re-wiring most of the trailer to fix this in a month or two.
 

LaBlaze

Member
I was hoping to shed some light on your rear latch issue since our Conqueror has the same construction and hardware to the rear pop-out. Our issue with our UEV-14 was the two clasps that hold the roof section down would not hold on their own when we picked it up a year ago. They eventually "settled in" but we still put in the clevis pins out of habit.
Yea ours is when it's up the black handle no longer locks in place. Wasn't sure if we would just have to tighten the screws or something
 

LaBlaze

Member
I was hoping to shed some light on your rear latch issue since our Conqueror has the same construction and hardware to the rear pop-out. Our issue with our UEV-14 was the two clasps that hold the roof section down would not hold on their own when we picked it up a year ago. They eventually "settled in" but we still put in the clevis pins out of habit.
Also I'm envious of your uev-14! I wanted the uev-14 platinum but it was over our budget.
 

kevin8119

New member
I want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays ! 😊 My wife and I pulled the trigger on a Dweller 13 a little over a week ago. I have gotten a lot of information from this forum and want to Thank everyone for their help. We are TOTAL camper newbies as we have never owned a camper. Like everyone else I wish that we had a decent owners manual… but it is what it is. I am a little confused on the electrical system on this camper. It says that the camper‘s electrical system is rated for 50 amps. Does this mean you can plug this camper into a 50 amp circuit at the campground or is 50 amps to much for the inverter to handle ? Is 30 amps - 2000 watts / 120 volts the most the camper inverter can handle ?

My F 150 has Pro Power on board in the truck bed and it has a 30 amp - 2 channel - 120 volts per channel - dedicated 240 volt 4 channel plug. I contacted OBI and they said not to plug into the 240V outlet on the truck as ppl have already blown the inverter on their camper doing this. I’m guessing that the 2000 watt camper inverter couldn’t handle the 7200 watts from the 240V on the truck. In addition to the 240v outlet the truck also has two separate 15 amp 120 volt outlets.

Are there any electricians on this forum that could help me out and provide some options for connecting to this camper ? 😊
Just came to say I can run the AC and heat pump, along with everything else, no problem from a 20amp 110 outlet with a dogbone.
 

kevin8119

New member
When I first walked through a Dweller a while back I thought that interior hardware that opens and closes the roof seemed a bit cheap. The author of this string jumped all over my sheeet. That said doesn't seem like that many folks are having issues.
The latch material doesn't feel cheap. It all feels well put together and solid.
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
The latch material doesn't feel cheap. It all feels well put together and solid.

I was referring to LaBlaze post about having issues with the interior hardware that opens and closes the roof on the inside. Lots of stress over the years going up and down so many times. Just seemed like it could have been more stout to me.
 
Also I'm envious of your uev-14! I wanted the uev-14 platinum but it was over our budget.
Please excuse the slight diversion from the OP thread topic.

It appears ROA is not selling them anymore as evidenced by their website. They are, however, continuing to support it well. My wife doesn't like the military appearance of the Conqueror and the neighbors jokingly refer to it as an urban assault vehicle. We just call it The Beast. The Dweller looks much more "friendly" but we absolutely love the larger dinette table for gaming and cards. Trade-offs.
 
Yea ours is when it's up the black handle no longer locks in place. Wasn't sure if we would just have to tighten the screws or something
Could you have worn out gas struts that led to this? Our UEV appears to have the exact lifting mechanism. It doesn't lift super easy and the scissor jacks moan and creak. On your Dweller maybe one side is worse than the other leading to the bent inside handle. If they were both equally as bad, then maybe it wouldn't have bent? Just a thought.
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
Please excuse the slight diversion from the OP thread topic.

It appears ROA is not selling them anymore as evidenced by their website. They are, however, continuing to support it well. My wife doesn't like the military appearance of the Conqueror and the neighbors jokingly refer to it as an urban assault vehicle. We just call it The Beast. The Dweller looks much more "friendly" but we absolutely love the larger dinette table for gaming and cards. Trade-offs.

I still see the Dweller 13 and 15 listed on website. They are down from over 40 units to maybe 12 on thier happy valley UT lot. My guess is you won't see any 2024 Dwellers or Conqueror on thier lots in the future. Once the bargains dry up sales will dwindle especially to dealers that got hosed
 

LaBlaze

Member
Could you have worn out gas struts that led to this? Our UEV appears to have the exact lifting mechanism. It doesn't lift super easy and the scissor jacks moan and creak. On your Dweller maybe one side is worse than the other leading to the bent inside handle. If they were both equally as bad, then maybe it wouldn't have bent? Just a thought.
We've only had the camper a month and used the top about 10 times... I'm going to try to submit a manufacturer claim
 

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