OBS F250 slow adventure build

[amgvr4]

There is zero rubbing now. If you don't trim the body seam where the bottom of the fender bolts on it will rub because you can't push the fender liner back far enough but since we did he is completely rub free. The wheels he got had a pretty high offset so your H1 wheels will require some significant spacers to keep the tires from rubbing on the leaf springs. Probably at least 2" maybe 3" spacers to be safe. The back cleared with no trimming at all so that really helped make things easier.

 

[amgvr4]

Started the base for My RT rack

The weather cooperated yesterday so I was able to get the base of my two part bed rack system started. The idea is to have a frame that is mounted to the bed that will also serve as a structure for several tie down mounts as well as a roll out canvas bed cover.

The head plate is 2x2x.250" L angle iron


The sides and back are 3x2x.187" L angle



The back "legs" are mounted in through the taillight panel


I notched the head and sides so they fit tightly and then later welded them together



For hardware I used .250" aluminum squares with helicoil inserts and M6x1 SS flat head screws




All welded and ready for the next phase. The whole frame will unbolt and is removable from the bed if needed






This week I will try and get the raised platform for the tent atleast started. It will bolt onto the base frame with 1/2-13 bolts and be easilly removable to have full access to the bed if needed. I ordered some of these L-track attachments to mount to the frame

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-Straps-Tie-Downs/L-Track-Tie-Down-Rails

I also ordered a CB radio for a trip to Tahuya ORV park next weekend. I settled on a Uniden PRO 510 xl and a 4' firestick. This week will be busy but I should hopefully get a bunch of stuff done!

 

[Root Moose]

Nicely done.

I wasn't sure about the detail at the tail gate. Will this be easy to remove from the bed once the bolts are removed or is the tailgate sort of "puzzle" fit into place and then welded?

 

[amgvr4]

Nicely done.

I wasn't sure about the detail at the tail gate. Will this be easy to remove from the bed once the bolts are removed or is the tailgate sort of "puzzle" fit into place and then welded?

The tailgate opens and removes just like normal with this rack. The rack will unbolt and slide out the back with a little persuasion but is should be pretty easy. I don't anticipate needing to remove the fame of the rack for anything other than some more welding and painting.

 

[amgvr4]

I made the jig for helping me position the tent frame at the correct height and centered in the bed. All I did was grab some 2x4s and a sheet of plywood to use as an analog for the footprint of the tent when folded. I made a simple frame with the 2x4s that will hold the main frame of the tent rack with the clearance I need to keep the tent below the roof line when folded.

The 2x4 frame




The plywood cut to the correct dimensions of the folded tent. The Mt Rainier is 72" long and 48" wide folded and 72"x132" open.




Here are some wood blocks to represent the height if the folded tent






There will be 26" of clearance under the tent and frame when it is finished


I will pick up the steel for the rack tomorrow and as long as the weather holds out I might be able to make some good progress on it as well. I would love to have it completed by the end of the week, but we will see how it goes. This is a really busy one but I might be able to pull it off. I also have to mount up my CB when it shows up and that will take priority since I need it for Tahuya on the 25th.

 

[chaos616]

very sweet setup, i've been wanting a RTT for some time, but have been contemplating on where to mount it, i like your setup so far, am looking forward to the final design.

Cheers,

 

[tip]

Excited to see how your RTT rack turns out

 

[amgvr4]

I got the main frame for the RTT rack welded up tonight. I was worried that it might warp out of square so I took a bunch of time to make sure the corners were fitting really nice and clamped super solid. The frame is made from 2x1x.125" tube. It is super stout.

Ready to tack up



I gusseted the corners with some .250" plate


Here it is set up on the jig I made.

 

[Seabass]

Excellent and professional as always!

 

[amgvr4]

I ordered my tent today and the tentative plan is to go pick it up on the weekend of May 9th. I also have a better idea of how to make my jig easier to use and adjust for level and square.

Here is what I ordered

http://www.cascadiatents.com/Mt-Rainier-Roof-Top-Tent.htm?m=87&&id=117

 

[underdrive]

Wait, so isn't the height of the platform as you're building it now a bit too low to allow using the full available height of the tent's annex? Or are you going to make the frame be able to lift higher like CVT show in some of their pics?

Also I certainly hope you plan on using some sort of rubber isolator between the frame and the bed rails. IF you don't the paint between the frame and the rails will rub off and being it rains quite a bit where you are it's only a matter of time till rust attacks in full force...

 

[amgvr4]

The low profile of my mounting hight puts the bottom of the tent around 5'6". My wife is 5'7" and I'm 5'10" so it will have to be close enough. About half of the annex opens up into the tent so head room won't be an issue there. I though about making a quick adjust height system but it would be too complex to be worth it. If I really wanted to I could make some spacers to put under the tent before deploying it if I really felt like I needed the extra few inches. I decided the benifit of not having it sticking above the roofline was greater than the bummer of being a few inches too short.

I don't want to run any isolators because the tent frame will be a structural member of the bed cage system. The rust really isn't that bad around here. Take it from the guy who drove around with his custom bumper unpainted for several weeks in the rain, lol! As we speak my frame base is bolted to the bed without a lick of paint on it. However I do have some super thin HDPE that I can sandwich in between them to eliminate paint removal. If these parts last ten years I will be more than happy!

 

[underdrive]

Alright, that all makes good sense. I knew exactly why you're making the platform so low, I've had my fair share of close encounters with low-hanging branches, luckily never win a vehicle with soft top or anything that could get torn Also if the rust situation isn't as bad as I thought it would be, then don't worry about the HDPE strips, just paint the everything nicely with some tractor implement paint and bolt on and go!

 

[frig84]

He might have been asking about insulation between the truck bed and your frame you built. I built a similar frame for my Ranger and plan to build one for my F250. I used camper shell foam rubber between the bed and the frame to keep the two from rubbing paint off.

 

[underdrive]

^^^ Yes, that! insulation between the angle pieces that go around the perimeter of the bed and bolt onto the bed rails. But looking at how sturdy he's building his, there may not be much of any relative movement there once all is bolted down well.