oem steel wheel question

[FJR Colorado]

Sirs,

I just had some Toyota oem steel wheels, acquired by my local tire shop, mounted to the truck. My only concern is the the front wheels. They have only taken approximately half the thread of the lug nuts. The guy at the tire shop said the reason is the the front hub bolts don't stick out as much due to the design of the front hub. The rear wheels fit perfectly. The wheels are 16X7 16 hole black steelies. He assured me it was safe (6 to 7 full turns on the nut) but it just doesn't seem right to me. I planned on replacing the hub bolts with longer ones to get them fully threaded, but if the wheels are in fact Toyota wheels, this shouldn't be necessary should it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John

I wonder if this is a case of the wheels would fit if you popped off the center caps?

I know this was the case when I put FJ Cruiser wheels on a T-100 or FJ80.

In any case, based on the photo supplied, you have a potentially dangerous situation.

 

[Gerdo]

I wonder if this is a case of the wheels would fit if you popped off the center caps?

I know this was the case when I put FJ Cruiser wheels on a T-100 or FJ80.

In any case, based on the photo supplied, you have a potentially dangerous situation.

I think it is bottoming out on the heavy steel hub and not just the cap.

Yes there is a potentially dangerous situation here.

 

[07taco]

Thanks for all your input. I'll get to the bottom of it this week.

 

[07taco]

I don't think the problem is with the nuts or the length of the lugs. I would bet that the lugs are ~1.25" long. That should allow the nuts to fully spin on and have some sticking out.

I'm thinking that the wheel is not sliding over the hub, allowing the wheel to seat against the rotor. I think it is riding high on the hub and pressured on with the nuts. I think the hub is longer than the little shown in the picture.

DON'T DRIVE IT!!!

Is your spare on a steelie? I would swap it out and see how it sits.

If I'm right, get 4 new wheels. They should all be the same.

My spare is a steelie. I asked the tire shop to check it. They said it was good. Looks like I will have to check it myself. I am wondering if the wheels aren't what I was told they are. But if so, why do the rear wheels fit properly?

 

[Tacovendor]

You need to get this situation resolved asap, and do not drive it w/o getting the right wheels.

 

[FJR Colorado]

My spare is a steelie. I asked the tire shop to check it. They said it was good. Looks like I will have to check it myself. I am wondering if the wheels aren't what I was told they are. But if so, why do the rear wheels fit properly?

Toyota rear wheels always have a center hub that protrudes less than the fronts. I think this has something to do with your issue. See previous post of mine.

 

[Martinjmpr]

I am wondering if the wheels aren't what I was told they are. But if so, why do the rear wheels fit properly?

My guess would be the different shape of the drum brakes - no rotors or anything sticking out that could interfere with the wheel seating flat against the brake.

 

[keezer37]

There is no reason why you can not solve this mystery yourself with vernier calipers or a measuring tape in a pinch.
Start measuring things front to rear to see what is different: Hub diameter, wheel center hole size diameter, lug length and ensure the lug nuts are the same just for good measure. Go to NAPA/dealership and ask to see an OEM lug, measure the length so you know what you're suppose to have. You are wise not to trust the installer/mechanic or whatever he is calling himself. Do not assume you are dealing with a professional even if you are at a dealership.

Perhaps a previous owner replaced the lugs and bought the wrong ones. Perhaps they were the right ones but never seated properly.

Look, look, look. Measure, measure, measure. You will find it.

 

[Poorboyota26]

As long as there are enough threads to equal the diameter of the stud you will be fine. IE: measure the diameter of the stud. that measurment should equal the amount of threads that make contact inside the lugnut. if not get longer studs.

There is a notice at my local Toyota dealership about this.

 

[07taco]

Thanks all.

I will get to the bottom of it Tuesday and report back. I plan on standing by at the tire shop to see for myself.

John

 

[FJR Colorado]

As long as there are enough threads to equal the diameter of the stud you will be fine. IE: measure the diameter of the stud. that measurment should equal the amount of threads that make contact inside the lugnut. if not get longer studs.

There is a notice at my local Toyota dealership about this.

With all due respect, this is misinformation. All studs are roughly 1/2"; which is not nearly enough protrusion...

And it is not true that as long as there is 1/2" protrusion you are fine. As other posters have pointed out, the wheel and brake drum (or disc brake assembly) must make solid contact.

Not trying to give you a hard time, just want to clear it up.

I'm having a hard time seeing how you read that as some official Toyota bulletin.

Now, it is true that with alloy wheels there may only be about 1/2" protruding above the surface. Perhaps you read something along those lines. BUT, the alloy lugs are completely different and hug the threads below the surface. Steel wheels and tapered acorn lugs are a whole 'nother story. In either case, that wheel cannot be "floating" above the solid surface.

 

[07taco]

Thanks to all.

I had new, slightly longer Toyota hub bolts installed up front, and am happy with the amount of thread the bolts now take on. It appears as though the thickness of the front disks (the rear has drum brakes) accounts for the difference between the rear lugs bolting up flush and the front lugs, which did not. The wheels are all the same and fit properly. Thank you for all your input. If my front wheels fall off somewhere south of San Felipe I guess I'll have to reopen the investigation!:sombrero:

Best Regards,
John

 

[sasaholic]

factory rear and front studs are different lengths on tacomas, thats why people convert to matrix studs.

 

[laxtoy]

sasaholic speaks the truth, doing a matrix lug stud conversion is a common cure for this http://www.hunt4steve.com/05TacoExtLn.html i did the conversion a while back, feel it was worth it, even though i was in safe range
http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/tacomablackalloys.htm another option, look at the e/t (extended thread) style lug nuts about 1/3 way down the page, could be another solution.