Looks awesome! Took mine out for the first time a couple weekends ago.Here is what I have so far. Been working on it on and off between working and going to Bahama's for scuba. Got my Dometic CFX3 55IM mounted onto the tray and used ARB strap kit to attach it. Not sure where to find 5 drawer Durham drawer cabinet as all I have been able to find is 4 that are 20" wide. Tent should be coming in next month so hoping to finish up by end of next month. Plan is to have 21 gallon fresh water tank, tankless water heater, 200watt Renogy solar power with MPPT controller with marine dual battery charger for shore power charge and a toggle switch between shore and solar. I went with Timbren axle-less suspension (2200lbs).
I noticed that you have your trailer battery getting charged by the truck when you are driving.... I thought we couldn't do that on our 4runners unless we upgrade the alternator? Ours comes with 140 I think.
Here are some pictures. I have more build pictures and video on Instagram at marztank. The latch on the tailgate is off amazon “Buyers products L8855 T handle-latch”. The latch engages the 1/8 inch by 3/4 inch steel flat strip that also has the “D” shaped weather strip adhered to it. For the battery, it is basically a dual battery setup only differing that the 2nd battery is 20 feet away from the engine bay and detachable. I used a Keyline Dc to Dc battery isolator/charger found on amazon. The wire gage used in the tow vehicles 7 pin trailer harness is to small to effectively charge the trailer battery. I ran a 4 gage wire with 50 amp circuit breaker from car battery positive terminal all the way to rear bumper adjacent to 7pin connector with an Anderson connector. I used the chassis as the negative circuit so as not run two wires. The trailer has its own 4 gage harness with other half of Anderson connector running to the Keyline isolator and to trailer ground/chassis. I am able to watch voltage at Dometic fridge in real time while I tow on the Dometic app on my phone. Usually the volts are from 13.1 to 14.0 while towing. When I turn off engine it drops to 12 volts.
Here are some pictures. I have more build pictures and video on Instagram at marztank. The latch on the tailgate is off amazon “Buyers products L8855 T handle-latch”. The latch engages the 1/8 inch by 3/4 inch steel flat strip that also has the “D” shaped weather strip adhered to it. For the battery, it is basically a dual battery setup only differing that the 2nd battery is 20 feet away from the engine bay and detachable. I used a Keyline Dc to Dc battery isolator/charger found on amazon. The wire gage used in the tow vehicles 7 pin trailer harness is to small to effectively charge the trailer battery. I ran a 4 gage wire with 50 amp circuit breaker from car battery positive terminal all the way to rear bumper adjacent to 7pin connector with an Anderson connector. I used the chassis as the negative circuit so as not run two wires. The trailer has its own 4 gage harness with other half of Anderson connector running to the Keyline isolator and to trailer ground/chassis. I am able to watch voltage at Dometic fridge in real time while I tow on the Dometic app on my phone. Usually the volts are from 13.1 to 14.0 while towing. When I turn off engine it drops to 12 volts.
Here is what I have so far. Been working on it on and off between working and going to Bahama's for scuba. Got my Dometic CFX3 55IM mounted onto the tray and used ARB strap kit to attach it. Not sure where to find 5 drawer Durham drawer cabinet as all I have been able to find is 4 that are 20" wide. Tent should be coming in next month so hoping to finish up by end of next month. Plan is to have 21 gallon fresh water tank, tankless water heater, 200watt Renogy solar power with MPPT controller with marine dual battery charger for shore power charge and a toggle switch between shore and solar. I went with Timbren axle-less suspension (2200lbs).
Very nice! Love the build!