X-plorenow
Adventurer
Any thoughts on how to add an oil pressure and battery level guage to a 97 Discovery I? Wondering if anyone out there has done this.
Thanks
Thanks
Oil Pressure & Battery Level Guages
- Thread starter X-plorenow
- Start date
David Harris
Expedition Leader
I added an oil pressure gauge to my 96 D1 by putting a T into the upper oil cooler line near the radiator using 1/2 inch compression fittings. Then I screwed the mechanical sender into this. Would work with an electric sender as well. Cost 10.00 using parts from local hardware store.
You could also do the oil filter housing adapter. No cutting or anything. But probably $50-$75.
-Sam
X-plorenow
Adventurer
both good thoughts, thanks.
David Harris
Expedition Leader
Also, I don't know if you already have an auxiliary engine temp gauge, but this along with oil pressure would be my first additions before a voltage gauge. The idiot light is OK for voltage, and the tach is actually a good early warning system as well, since it will start to jump around and even stop working when the alternator is going. When I got my Disco, the serpentine belt was installed wrong, causing it to slip on the alternator pulley and the tach displayed these symptoms. Something to watch for. As regards a temp gauge, I installed one using a 3/4 inch T in the heater hose which comes out of the intake manifold. I screwed a mechanical temp sender into this. This is actually better than taking the temp reading off of the thermostat area since the coolant entering the heater through this hose is the hottest in the motor, having just come through the engine. The temperature on these motors is crucial, since they are aluminum (speaking of the V8, which I assume you have) and DO NOT like to be overheated. A couple of overheats and you are looking at head gaskets at the very least. Look to keep your temp below 220 at all times. The factory gauge is really just an idiot light, and when it moves above the middle, it is already in the 240 range, and too late . . . These vehicles have superb cooling systems when they are in good order, with a large capacity 4 row radiator, two trans coolers and an oil cooler. (You won't find many stock trucks with that kind of cooling.) If yours is running hot, look to having the radiator cleaned out and replace the fan clutch at intervals as normal maintenance, as you should all of the hoses if they look original or old. The lower radiator hose is special and not easy to find locally. Go to Expedition Exchange, a subsidiary of this site, and buy a bottle of K-Seal. This will seal any leaks in your cooling/heating system and even work on minor head gasket leaks if you should have any developing.
X-plorenow
Adventurer
Thanks Aliastel. Some very good and timely info. My Tac has actually been displaying the behavior you mentioned. I thought it was just shot. The previous owner claims to have replaced the alternator recently with an OME replacement. I will have to check the belt. I also have to replace the battery. I have a Yellowtop but have just not put it in yet.
Yes I do have the V8 and have been having trouble with the heat. I will add an additional temp gauge as you described. I know I have a cooling system leak and planned to flush it and add the leak fix product.
I have considered going to an electrical fan over the current engine driven one as I did in my Jeep. Anyone have any thoughts on that in regards to a Disco?
Thanks again for all the great info.
Yes I do have the V8 and have been having trouble with the heat. I will add an additional temp gauge as you described. I know I have a cooling system leak and planned to flush it and add the leak fix product.
I have considered going to an electrical fan over the current engine driven one as I did in my Jeep. Anyone have any thoughts on that in regards to a Disco?
Thanks again for all the great info.
David Harris
Expedition Leader
I don't think the electric fans are necessary for proper cooling, just make sure your clutch and everything else is in good shape. You can get a Gm fan clutch at your local parts store and a new bolt kit at the same place. It replaces the stock clutch for much less money. All you have to do is ream out the plastic fan bolt holts a little larger. Here are instructions on what to get and how to do it:
Parts needed:
Fan clutch Imperial 215157 ($66.96)
4 Bolts (Help! kit # 14040 10x1.5x15mm four pack) ($5.98)
10mm drill bit or reamer (had an old bit laying around, think I used a 3/8" bit)
Installation:
Remove your fan blade assembly from the old clutch
Ream out the 4 mounting holes on fan blade assembly to fit the 10mm bolts from the Help! kit
Bolt your fan blade assembly onto the new clutch with your Help! bolts
Reinstall onto your water pump and you are good to go
Remove the upper part of the fan shroud for access. Use a large crescent wrench or 32mm standard wrench counterclockwise from front of engine to remove clutch. A quick blow from a hammer on the end of the wrench will break the clutch free. Use a long screwdriver across the pulley bolts to keep it from turning while you do this. If the 6mm allen bolts which hold the stock clutch to the fan are stuck, use an impact wrench to remove them, which is easier and safer than trying to find more leverage. Be careful of the plastic fan, as it is fragile.
This is a great mod and much cheaper than the factory part.
Advantages of the electric fans are the ability to turn them off during water crossings and less horsepower draw from the motor.
Parts needed:
Fan clutch Imperial 215157 ($66.96)
4 Bolts (Help! kit # 14040 10x1.5x15mm four pack) ($5.98)
10mm drill bit or reamer (had an old bit laying around, think I used a 3/8" bit)
Installation:
Remove your fan blade assembly from the old clutch
Ream out the 4 mounting holes on fan blade assembly to fit the 10mm bolts from the Help! kit
Bolt your fan blade assembly onto the new clutch with your Help! bolts
Reinstall onto your water pump and you are good to go
Remove the upper part of the fan shroud for access. Use a large crescent wrench or 32mm standard wrench counterclockwise from front of engine to remove clutch. A quick blow from a hammer on the end of the wrench will break the clutch free. Use a long screwdriver across the pulley bolts to keep it from turning while you do this. If the 6mm allen bolts which hold the stock clutch to the fan are stuck, use an impact wrench to remove them, which is easier and safer than trying to find more leverage. Be careful of the plastic fan, as it is fragile.
This is a great mod and much cheaper than the factory part.
Advantages of the electric fans are the ability to turn them off during water crossings and less horsepower draw from the motor.
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brushogger
Explorer
I'm getting ready to do the same thing and this is very good info. Does anyone know of a supplier that makes a replacement drivers side A pillar trim with pods for mounting accessory gauges? I've seen these for other vehicles but haven't been able to find one for my '04 D2. It's a great place to mount them with good visibilty. It's also a clean looking install. Just paint it with Marhyde and it looks factory.
David Harris
Expedition Leader
I haven't been able to find one for my D1. I just have the gauges sitting on the dash, either side of my instrument cluster. Nice and visible there. I think I'll just get some single gauge housings and put them there permanently.