On Board Welders?

[Mundo4x4Casa]

I've used a Premier Power Welder since 1996 and have maybe 100 hrs on it. It is very forgiving and makes you look like a better welder than you are. I bought it to self-weld the front axle SOA perches and shock mounts to the axle, and subsequently a few more jeep SOA's. It was a sight with the front of this CJ8:
up on jack stands with no front axle under there. Kind of a toothless wonder. I used 7018, high nickel content rod as I was partially welding on the nodular cast iron pig. I also carry around 6013, 6011(for out of position) and my fav, the 7018. No problems so far. I have welded new driveshafts together in the field, reattached broken shock mounts, broken NV4500 shifter shaft back together (at 2:45A.M.), patched broken frames in the field, reattached pulled off spring mounts, patched up metal fences, worked on trailer hitches, cracked cross members, and bent a tie rod back to straight and welded a piece of angle iron to it, which stayed that way for years. Ah, there is no fix like a trail fix. You know, the minute someone knows you have a welder in the group, you are a target for those 'didn't fix it at home' guys.
The thing i like about it is it will weld 1/2 inch plate, has an aircraft engine speed throttle, alternator puts out 180 amps. There are things i don't like, like the plastic cover does not let you see the position of the switches. The regulator is the weak link in the system. I had the engine worked on and the guy inadvertently leaned on the switch, switching it to high weld and I drove it home and found I had fried the voltmeter and the regulator. The regulator is the thing that goes on this rig. I carry a spare, which i have replaced in the field.
Some folks have had very bad luck with these, and I do miss a guy that built the predecessor to this one (On Board welder?) named Robinson, who knew this portable welder biz better than any one, would always talk you thru any breakdown.
As far as using a stick welder in backpack form, I am skeptical. Don't you need a battery to absorb the shock loading of the current? If you need a battery, you better be thinking hand cart or small wagon.
jefe

 

[Mundo4x4Casa]

You know, today I blew off the decks and driveway with an electric leaf blower and with a 200 foot driveway I always use my Honda EC2000 generator on a small garden wagon and just pull it around while blowing. I think the leaf blower draws 1600 watts and I use a 25 foot 12 gage cord with it to reduce the line loss. It weighs 43 pounds, and while not that light, it is lighter than a group 31 battery and could be hauled around in a small garden wagon. It puts out a very clean wave and is usable with sensitive electronic equipment. I'm not sure this would all fit together or not but it's worth a look.
regards, as always, jefe
"most of the woes of the world can be directly attributed to someone not paying attention."

 

[4x4junkie]

The only thing that is going to be portable is a gas set with small bottles. Or 3 batteries in series (way over 50 pounds though)

You can get combination welder/gensets that are portable - but think of it more the size of a heavily laden wheelbarrow than something you are going to carry on your back.

As far as using a stick welder in backpack form, I am skeptical. Don't you need a battery to absorb the shock loading of the current? If you need a battery, you better be thinking hand cart or small wagon.
jefe

Just thinking out loud here about something that's had my curiosity for awhile... Why has a portable welder that uses lightweight lithium-polymer or lithium-ion technology not come around yet?

Another hobby of mine is radio-controlled vehicles (where these types of batteries are common), and the amount of power available from them is something really truly amazing (a small 5 amp-hour LiPo cell (3.7 volts, weighs about four ounces) is commonly rated for a discharge current in excess of 40C (40 × 5 = 200 amps!). A LiPo battery pack sized around a kilowatt-hour @ 25-30V I'm thinking would let you weld ¼-inch steel for a solid 15 minutes straight, yet would weigh maybe 12-15 lbs I'm guessing?

Seems like such a unit would have decent market potential... I'd certainly buy one myself.

 

[SiliconTi]

The Hobart Trek 180 welder is self contained, though it may be discontinued. I have on and it is fantastic.

 

[AFBronco235]

I remember reading a review about a pocket sized jump-box on here that can start any 12 volt system up to I believe 1300 CCA. However, the problem with smaller batters is that as the batteries always put out the same about of heat per unit of work. Larger batteries can handle this easily because they greater size acts like a heat sink. A smaller battery, and the review of the jump box I mentioned actually did mention it getting very hot but not really over heating, can't dissipate the heat as well. On the other hand, the rig I'm considering can be made contained with a cooling fan added to prevent overheating?

Found the gear review: Antigravity Battery XP-1 PPS

 

[SoCal Tom]

I'm resurrecting this dead thread because I have a question about alternator welders.

What I'm wanting to do is build a "man portable" version, maybe mounted on something like an ALICE pack frame and powered with a small engine, something along the lines of a chain saw or weed eater motor.

What I'm wanting it to do:
1. Weld (duh)
2. be light weight (under 50 lbs if possible)
3. Man portable, preferably on a back pack frame to carry from site to site. (you can't always get a vehicle close enough to do the welding.)
4. Charge/jump dead batteries.
5. I would also like it to act as a general purpose generator for a 12 volt power system.

Has anybody ever done something like this? Will the small motors I've listed work or do I need to go bigger? What RPM ranges am I looking at to make the alternator work as a welder? Do I, or should I use a battery as part of the system? (If weight gets too heavy for a pack, I can always go with a two wheeled dolly setup.

In terms of preparedness, I'm a pretty cautious guy by nature, so I like to have backups for my backups with their own backups. I also like to have tools or accessories with multiple functions to keep things light.

So, is my idea even feasible or am I just dreaming?

You won't be able to put out the horsepower at the light weight. What you could do is have a battery welder setup, like the ready welder, and a spare battery.
http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/readyweld/readyweld.html.

If you have 2 rigs and three batteries between them, you should be able to get the job done if one rig is off the trail. Use two batteries for welding. Use the rig with the best alternator to charge the batteries as needed. Keep one battery for starting and you should be good to go. If you have only the one rig, then its a little risky if you wear down the batteries too much to start the rig, but as long as you are smart you can remember to recharge before you run them down too low.
Tom

 

[AFBronco235]

The Hobart Trek 180 welder is self contained, though it may be discontinued. I have on and it is fantastic.

I found a good review on it that includes real testing standards and a good report on the results. The only thing I don't like is it's need to be plugged in to charge up the batteries. Granted, the recharge cycle is only a few minutes, but I'd be happier if it was self generating.

I guess you could say I'm looking for a miniaturized gen-welder that fits on the back.

 

[4x4junkie]

The Hobart Trek 180 welder is self contained, though it may be discontinued. I have on and it is fantastic.

Yeah I've read about the Trek 180 also (looks to be still available)
http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500539-Battery-Powered-115-Volt-Portable/dp/B002EP3560

It uses heavy lead-acid batteries though (AGM-type).
Something like what I'm thinking might weigh 20lbs, be about the size of a shoebox, and have far superior amperage capability. I think the cost of lithium batteries has also gotten fairly close to that of AGM lead-acid per Wh too (I could build said battery out of little RC-car packs for maybe around $600 anyway), so whatever added cost premium would likely be limited primarily to implementing the circuits required to protect the battery (prevent over-discharge, along with ensuring the charge level (voltage) of each battery cell stays perfectly in balance, as LiPo cells are not self-limiting like lead-acid cells are).

I remember reading a review about a pocket sized jump-box on here that can start any 12 volt system up to I believe 1300 CCA. However, the problem with smaller batters is that as the batteries always put out the same about of heat per unit of work. Larger batteries can handle this easily because they greater size acts like a heat sink. A smaller battery, and the review of the jump box I mentioned actually did mention it getting very hot but not really over heating, can't dissipate the heat as well. On the other hand, the rig I'm considering can be made contained with a cooling fan added to prevent overheating?

Found the gear review: Antigravity Battery XP-1 PPS

LiPo batteries have such a low internal resistance I don't think heat buildup would be an issue at all in a welder.
A welder shouldn't tax the battery near as hard as jump-starting a car would, the delivered current is a much lesser percentage of the battery's total capacity (a welder may be called to put out about 3500 watts from a 1000 watt-hour battery (a 3.5:1 ratio), where the jump pack probably has to suck 2000 watts from it's tiny 50 watt-hour (guessing by it's weight) battery (a 40:1 ratio), though to jump a car it would be for a shorter period of time).

These jump packs do have me wondering though, would a welder be right around the corner?

 

[ssapach]

You won't be able to put out the horsepower at the light weight.

http://www.zena.net/htdocs/welders/BPW.shtml

 

[Arclight]

Thanks for this link. I've been looking for something like this for quite a while. I was in Air Liquide this morning asking for something similar and they looked at me like I was nuts. I've been using goggles and a bandanna but invariably end up with some sort of unattractive raccoon tan.

I made up a kit like this recently. For protective gear, I went with a pair of #10 goggles, a Nomex Balaclava hood and a set of sleeves.

For the business end, I used a Tweco 200A stinger and a ground clamp from Harbor Freight. I cut my heavy-duty jumper cables and installed a 175A Anderson Power Pole like this one:

http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/sb175-sb-series-175-amp.html

If you order 3 connectors (they are genderless), you can have one set of cable for jump-starting or welding.

For rods, I would recommend a 3/32" 6010 or 6011 (this cuts through rust and paint well, and has good penetration), some 6013 (will weld thicker sheet metal and makes nice cover passes) and 7014 (this is sometimes called "Farmer's Rod." It's very forgiving and makes strong structural repairs). You might also want to pick up some of the 1/16" 6013 they have at Harbor Frieght - it could be good for thin materials and may work on 1 battery.

If you have a way to grind metal, you can make a 'V' bevel and weld as many passes as it takes to repair something thick. I've seen pictures of a little suitcase-sized 110V portable welder putting a 10 ton bulldozer back in service. Just the welder, a grinder, and a box of rods. It probably took about 20 passes, but they welded a huge blade back together.


Check out:



The sleeves:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VECKYC

Balaclava:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033HF48A/

It all fits in a little tool bag, also from Harbor Freight. Here's another thread that got me inspired from @theksmith :
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...t-(modular)-trail-welder-amp-jumper-cable-kit

Arclight

 

[pugslyyy]

http://www.zena.net/htdocs/welders/BPW.shtml

Interesting, had not heard of this - thanks!

 

[ssapach]

Interesting, had not heard of this - thanks!

Not going to lie, when I first found that site I almost thought it was a joke, but still seemed like a good idea really.

 

[ripperj]

This thread turned up some cool links. The zena system looks pretty interesting. Engine on the 150amp model is rated at 8hp, just under 6000 watts. It looks like this is at 7000rpm. 65 # is not too far off from what the op was looking for.

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk 2

 

[ducktapeguy]

I'm resurrecting this dead thread because I have a question about alternator welders.

What I'm wanting to do is build a "man portable" version, maybe mounted on something like an ALICE pack frame and powered with a small engine, something along the lines of a chain saw or weed eater motor.

What I'm wanting it to do:
1. Weld (duh)
2. be light weight (under 50 lbs if possible)
3. Man portable, preferably on a back pack frame to carry from site to site. (you can't always get a vehicle close enough to do the welding.)
4. Charge/jump dead batteries.
5. I would also like it to act as a general purpose generator for a 12 volt power system.

Has anybody ever done something like this? Will the small motors I've listed work or do I need to go bigger? What RPM ranges am I looking at to make the alternator work as a welder? Do I, or should I use a battery as part of the system? (If weight gets too heavy for a pack, I can always go with a two wheeled dolly setup.

In terms of preparedness, I'm a pretty cautious guy by nature, so I like to have backups for my backups with their own backups. I also like to have tools or accessories with multiple functions to keep things light.

So, is my idea even feasible or am I just dreaming?

Maybe something like this if you can still find one.

http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/century131/

It's limited to about 6 ft of weld, so if you need more than that you can use a much smaller engine/generator combo to just charge the batteries. Or even a giant solar cell, depending on how much welding you do and how often.

 

[Scoutn79]

If you are wanting to weld around/through rusted/painted metal get a stick welder. Migs are great but clean metal is a must for them to work right. A stick is much more forgiving about this.

I have never used any of the welders you are referring to., I built my own out of a alternator. I can adjust the power by varying the engine rpm. I have used it quite a few times on the trail and in camp. Works great and the only part that might go bad is the alternator and I can get a replacement at any junk yard for $10 (or buy new) do a quick mod and I am back in business.
The plus side of this in my opinion is the fact that if my normal alternator goes bad I can un-mod my welding alt move it in place of the bad alt and be on the road again.

Food for thought anyway.

Darrell