On-Island XJ Build

[Whaler]

I finished the armrest vinyl repair and installation of the Dynamat in the driver's side door. I haven't driven the car yet so I don't have any final conclusions on the Dynamat, except that I dread the next time I need to do a repair inside the car door. Here's the final result:


The door comes from the factory with a plastic dust-shield, so I decided to use it as a template to layout the shape of my Dynamat. I probably could have over-sized it for greater coverage, but I worried that the thickness might screw up some tolerances around the door card edges, especially where it latches onto the trim at the bottom of the window.


The door latch and lock arms have to penetrate through the Dynamat and in that area I left some of the backing paper in place so that the Dynamat wouldn't stick to the arms when they slide back and forth.


There's some wiring mounted to the face of the steel door and I had to decide whether to cover it with the Dynamat or snake it through a hole and then re-fasten it on top of the Dynamat. I decided to bury it in deference to fewer penetrations through the Dynamat, so with a thought toward future repairs I decided to put some blue tape on all the wiring to that the Dynamat wouldn't adhere to the wires when it needs to be removed some day for future repairs.


I avoided the speaker area completely because I'm going to replace those at some point. I've read that some people use Dynamat to improve audio quality by creating a de facto speaker box within the door cavity, so I'll tackle that when the time comes. Overall, it seems like a nice product. I hope there's an appreciable improvement.

 

[Whaler]

My vinyl armrest repair looks ok. It'll get the job done but its not great looking. I used construction adhesive (Premium PL because I had it on hand) to glue the foam and vinyl onto the plastic armrest and then wrapped it up in electrical tape. The electrical tape has stretch to it, so I thought it would help to provide some additional tension but the edges ended being a bit lumpy.



Test fit shows the lumpy edges pretty clearly:



Final result will pass for a Jeep:

 

[Whaler]

I spent so much time crouching inside the driver's side door that I noticed the plastic sill guards (which protect the bottom sill of the door opening in the unibody) had screws holding them in place that were almost completely rusted out. It made me nervous about what I might find underneath that plastic trim, so I removed it. Overall, the sills look pretty good for a twenty year old, New England Jeep but there was some preventative work to be done while I was in there.



I used a flat-head screwdriver and a wire brush to remove as much bubbling paint and rust as possible and then applied a rust converter to handle and residual spots. Took care of the front and rear doors on the driver's side.



I'll prime and paint it after a few coats of the rust converter.



Once I started on the sills, I noticed some more rust inside the drip rail, at the top of the door jamb, so I took care of that too. I always seem to get into a project and think "well, while I'm doing this..."

 

[Whaler]

I took a look at my transmission mount on the advice of JSwanson. It looks like there's a small crack in the middle of the rubber, so it probably ought to be replaced. I included a photo and am hoping for some advice as I don't know what a transmission mount should look like:

 

[paroxysym]

I took a look at my transmission mount on the advice of JSwanson. It looks like there's a small crack in the middle of the rubber, so it probably ought to be replaced. I included a photo and am hoping for some advice as I don't know what a transmission mount should look like:

View attachment 433568

I will say if you do replace it- go OEM or anything BUT anchor. I ran an anchor tranny mount on my 01 for prob month and swapped it for an OEM and what a world of difference. yea that thing looks worn- shouldn't be buckling in the middle like that

 

[JSwanson]

Yea definitely replace that. I believe I used a crown mount but as paroxysym said oe would be best. I think I got my crown on amazon for around $40 and it was good quality. Here is what i got looks like $50 now Crown Automotive 52059347AB Rear Motor Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XUZF9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N82BAb4JB7BJD

 

[Whaler]

Thanks paroxysym and Jswanson. I just ordered one through my local dealer for $63 with tax and will have it in a few days. Given your advice the $13 premium over the Crown option seemed reasonable. I'm going to evaluate my front motor mounts a little closer now too. They didn't seem cracked but seemed like maybe they had settled a little, like the weight of the motor had squished them a bit. I'll see if I can get a decent photo. Thanks for the advice!

I drove the Jeep today at about 40-45 mph and I think the Dynamat makes a difference. It could be a placebo effect and it's hard to say for sure, especially because I've only done one door, but initial experience is positive and makes me think I'll proceed with the passenger door because I have enough material for it. The firewall and floor-pan would probably yield better improvement, but I'm a little nervous about doing anything to the floor-pan because I don't want to trap any moisture and promote rust. I've had a recurring moisture issue in the passenger foot-well (likely from the cowl) and sometimes I drive home from the beach in a wet-suit when its too cold to change at the beach. I'm careful to put something waterproof at my feet but worry that any moisture would fester under a layer of Dynamat in the footwell.

 

[91AzXJ]

Nice build, the dynamat really needs to be under the headliner, carpets and every door to make a big difference. It becomes a cost vs benefit issue.

 

[Whaler]

Thanks 91AzXJ

I noticed a fluid leak yesterday from the front end, a pretty regular drip. I thought it was power steering fluid but after pulling the air box and aux electric fan to get a better look from above, I couldn't find the source. After turning the engine back on, I noticed one of the transmission cooling lines leaking through a rusted hole. I can get OEM lines with the quick disconnect fittings, but I'm reading that hydraulic hose and pipe clamps work just as well. As long as I get comfortable that the lines will stay in place and won't jostle into a dangerous spot, I think I might go this route because I'll have to ship the OEM lines in otherwise. Any concerns with this substitution?

 

[JSwanson]

As long as you can get a rubber hose and tight clamp i would try that first. My last xj somehow had the hard lines smashed next to the oil pan. I cut the smashed part out put in rubber fuel hose (forget what size) and clamps and had no leaks. That XJ i did not drive very much i bought it for some parts and sold it. I believe you will be fine though.

 

[JSwanson]

That is how you attach most aftermarket trans cooler lines anyways. If it for some reason doesn't work,then order the oem line. Should cost leas than 10 for some hose and clamps.

 

[Whaler]

Thanks JSwanson, I'll give it a go.

 

[Heavyopp]

New OEM lines suck -- they will leak sooner rather than later -- they just don't make them like they used to

Never want to replace those lines again? -- swap the whole thing out to -6 AN stainless braided hose and fittings from summit racing -- gonna cost you some money and time but you will never do it again unless you actually damage one

I do have a full parts list if interested...

 

[Whaler]

Heavyopp, I'm interested. Thank you. I plan on implementing the quick-fix first but would like to overhaul all the lines completely to get it all to a better more reliable baseline.

The nice thing about the OEM lines is that they include rigid and flexible sections. The rigid parts keep the lines safely tucked out of the way and then the flexible parts create easy bends and allow for a little movement/flex. If I replace the entire lines with flexible material, I'm not yet sure how I'll keep it tidy and safely out of the way.

If I'm buying stainless braided lines, I may consider getting enough material to reinstall my return fuel line too. It rusted out long ago and isn't strictly necessary, but if it was there once there's likely a good rationale for it. I'm reading that maybe Teflon inner tubing is better than rubber for fuel use (less smell). Any validity to that?

 

[Heavyopp]

I been using the teflon hose with ATF on 3 vehicles now -- no issues

I have the receipt from Summit racing at my shop -- I'll try and get a list of parts and some pictures as soon as I can