Opinions needed on new vehicle choice

colodak

Adventurer
Don't just shop at your local dealers. Shop ALL dealers within a days drive.

I live in Virginia, but I saved thousands by flying to upstate New York and driving a new truck back down.

I've stretched my search out to about 250 miles from home, I just have to be careful though because the taxes on doing that can be a killer. If I buy in Wyo. they won't collect Colo. taxes, so when I go for plates, they will want $3,000 in taxes plus other fees.
 

TwinStick

Explorer
Get what you like.
I test drove a Ram 1500 w/Eco-Diesel. I cleared the computer before test drive. A little city & 30 mile round trip---28.9 mpg. That may be my next truck, but honestly, i can't ever see getting rid of my 08' Power Wagon w/G-56 manual. I does everything i have ever asked of it, even while pulling our trailer's. Yes, it suck's gas like a hooker sucks......... But i love my truck.
 

ttravis5446

Adventurer
I'm not sure what part of the state you are in, but here on the northern front range you can make some pretty good deals on new trucks. I have been considering getting a new one lately but just cant make myself spend the money. If you find one of the dealers that was doing a ton of oilfield business before the industry tanked you can score pretty good. As long as you don't mind white and low spec interior you should be able to find something close to your budget, especially if you find leftover '14s. The last time I bought a new truck was in 13 when I got a new leftover '12 F350. I ended up over $20k below sticker on that one. I would try some dealers like Prestige Dodge in Longmont, John Elway Dodge in Greeley, Johnson Auto Plaza in Brighton, Brighton Ford, and maybe Spradley Barr ford in Greeley and Fort Collins.
 

chet6.7

Explorer
I understand the money angle.
I don't know what you know about hot rodding diesels,but it is not uncommon,it would be worth your time to learn how to spot it,if possible.
I don't remember much,but I did see some posts on a diesel site saying what to look for.If you asked on Cummins forum ,or,the forums for GM or Ford you could get some tips that may save you some money.
The newer trucks can be modified a couple of ways,some flash the computer,this may/will cause the warranty to be voided by the dealer if discovered.There are also modules that plug into wiring/injector harness,ect.It is my understanding that they leave a foot print in the ECU that can be found.
The older trucks had some plug in tuner stuff as well,I don't remember if there would be signs on wiring harnesses.Some of those guys would "stack" boxes from different manufacturers for more performance.
Good luck,I hope you find what you want.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
OK, I know this isn't the question you asked but I have to wonder, if money is such an issue for you (and from your posts it seems to be), then why on earth are you buying new? I haven't bought a new car since 1999 and I'm pretty sure I never will again. Cars have gotten so good these days that depending on how long you plan to keep it, even buying a used vehicle over 100K is still a pretty smart bet and will save you a ton of cash.
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Is there a risk? Of course. But I'll take the slight risk of a major failure on a modern vehicle (knock wood, but it hasn't happened to me in over 30 years) over the absolute, guaranteed butt-reaming my wallet will take buying a brand new vehicle.
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When I see the prices of new vehicles these days it just makes me shake my head. Thirty five grand for a mid size truck? Fifty grand for a full size SUV? Crazy.
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Once again, this wasn't the question you asked (and people answering the question you didn't ask is one of my internet pet peeves) but your concern about money, which comes out in several of your posts, makes me wonder whether you would not be better off buying that 3 - 5 year old, 100k vehicle. There are a bajillion of them on the road. Sure, some are thrashed, but many are not.
 

colodak

Adventurer
I am looking at something between 2012 and 2015 models, but, I don't want the headaches that come from high miles. As someone else pointed out, at 100K, I may need to start looking at a trans rebuild depending on how it was cared for. I put $4,400 into a rebuilt trans on my Dakota a year ago, I don't want to go through that again. I typically only put about 10K miles on a vehicle per year, but I'd rather have something with a warranty on it for a couple of years, rather than something that I'm going to have start throwing money into within a few months. I did look at a couple of trucks today, one dealer apparently has either been consuming what his neighbor business is selling, or has been down wind of it too long. 2011 F-250 Lariat, 115K miles, bed beat to hell (setup for 5th wheel), the ad claimed it was in excellent condition, but the trans was very slow shifting, they wanted $28,500 for it. They had a 2012 Ram 3500, 4 dr, short box, 65K, white/white, pretty basic model for $31,500. I offered him $28,000 for it, he laughed and said the book on it was too high, which means he has too much in it. Friend with a Carfax account ran the VIN and told me to stay away from it, shows two accident reports, one with heavy right front damage and frame damage.

I've dealt with Johnson Auto for years on my Dakota, one of their salesman has feelers out for a truck for me via the auction, talked to him earlier today, he's got a line on 2103 2500, low miles, looks like it was a dealer demo truck.
 

ttravis5446

Adventurer
We've gotten a few of those demo trucks from the auction through our broker. The last one was a sweet deal. 2014 F250 gasser 4 door short box with 20k miles. I think we paid $25k even after the broker's commission. Can't beat that.
 

Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
I have a cure for you. About every spring I get the urge for a new truck, buy one with the zero percent finance, and by about now, I cannot stand making the payment. This year I bought a F-150 higher end XLT CCSB 4x4, rear E-locker, Offroad pkg, 5.0 V-8 (solid 15/18 mpg), leather, console, rear camera, rear sensors, tow package with integrated brake controller, power slide rear window, HID headlights ($750 option I think), etc, etc. I can likely get a touch more than you are wanting to spend, but I will take $31k. I added a leveling kit to the front (spacer/puck, easily removed if desired), then put on 285/75-18 tires on stock (upgraded) wheels. I will remove the tires, but put back on the original brand new factory tires. Oh, and it just turned 7,500 miles, so tons of warranty left. I think list was around $42-44k, but we are out of town, so I don't have the file.

This should get you everything you want, including a great deal. Good mpg, pretty decent GVW, meets budget, and basically new- never been back to the dealer... PM if interested.
 

82fb

Adventurer
After you shared your financial situation, I cannot recommend that you buy either of your choices. Not trying to rain on your parade, but making $40k a year does not put you into a $30k truck, unless you like living with financial stress!

Dave Ramsay...
 

colodak

Adventurer
I make much more than $40K a year, my numbers I posted were rounded off low, and don't take into account my wife's income either.


But, here's the rain in Ramsay's parade, he and others will tell you to pay cash for a vehicle, and don't buy more than you can afford. I have a nephew who does that, he's never owned a vehicle that's cost more than $8,000, Currently, he drives a 1999 Honda Accord with 275,000 miles, the A/C quit working 3 yrs ago, the heater sort of works, when it wants to, two years ago the clutch went out on it. 4 months after putting the clutch in, the trans seized. He took the bus to work for 2 months, which meant his normal 20 minute commute ea. way, took him 2 hrs each way. On average, he puts $250 a month into in repairs. His wife, until Jan. of this year, drove a 2002 Honda Passport, when it finally died, it had 240,000 miles on it. He replaced the trans twice, once in the middle of winter after it left his wife and infants stranded in a snowstorm 30 miles from home, when it stuck in 2 nd gear and refused to shift. One of the back doors was held shut with duct tape, the lock mechanism was broke and the parts were no longer available, every month it was something with it. The final straw, in Jan., his wife was on her way from work when the front suspension simply failed, the left lower ball joint sheared off when she hit a pot hole, she lost control of the vehicle and hit a parked car. The airbag failed to deploy, she spent 3 days in the hospital. Two weeks later, they bought a 2 yr old lease return Pathfinder. Yes, they have a large payment on it, but, it has a warranty good for another 3 yrs (which should give him time to put at least some money in the bank).


Dave Ramsey and others like him make assumptions about things. They assume that everyone gets paid the same amount every week/2 weeks/ twice a month, that people are on salary or make a flat wage with very little change every check. I've heard him tell people several times to sell the vehicle they are making payments on. Ok, then what do they do? I've never heard someone tell him, this is my only vehicle, if I don't have it, I don't go to work. The trucking company I work for, the nearest bus stop is 2 miles away, the bus that services that stop only runs once an hour. In my case, to start work at 3 am (which I normally do), I would have to walk 2 miles to catch the first bus at 10:38 pm, ride that bus 4 miles, wait until 11:13 pm to catch the next bus, take that bus 10 miles, catch the next bus at 12:01 am, then walk 1 miles through the worst part of town (where getting shot at 12:10 am is good possibility), catch the next bus at 12:14 am, and get to work at 12:45 am. So, what do I do for 2 hr and 15 minutes until my day can actually start? Oh, and the ride home at 3 pm, the reverse. I would basically get home in time to go back to work. How does Dave's system work now?


Anyhow, after this weekend, and some random looking, the wife and I had a long talk. I had my gall bladder out two weeks ago, so I can't ride my motorcycle for 4 weeks. As soon as I can ride, my pickup is going in the shop. I'll have them rebuild the front suspension, replace the front brakes and bleed the system, service the trans, and take a long hard look at my HVAC problem. From talking to them, they think they can fix it. Given the weather, I figure they can have it for up to two weeks. If they can get everything with the HVAC system working correctly, then I'll keep it for another year and get some extra money put in the bank. As well as get another bill paid off, so then maybe I'll be able to figure for a higher price tag and larger payment larger down payment.
 
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82fb

Adventurer
I make much more than $40K a year, my numbers I posted were rounded off low, and don't take into account my wife's income either.


But, here's the rain in Ramsay's parade, he and others will tell you to pay cash for a vehicle, and don't buy more than you can afford. I have a nephew who does that, he's never owned a vehicle that's cost more than $8,000, Currently, he drives a 1999 Honda Accord with 275,000 miles, the A/C quit working 3 yrs ago, the heater sort of works, when it wants to, two years ago the clutch went out on it. 4 months after putting the clutch in, the trans seized. He took the bus to work for 2 months, which meant his normal 20 minute commute ea. way, took him 2 hrs each way. On average, he puts $250 a month into in repairs. His wife, until Jan. of this year, drove a 2002 Honda Passport, when it finally died, it had 240,000 miles on it. He replaced the trans twice, once in the middle of winter after it left his wife and infants stranded in a snowstorm 30 miles from home, when it stuck in 2 nd gear and refused to shift. One of the back doors was held shut with duct tape, the lock mechanism was broke and the parts were no longer available, every month it was something with it. The final straw, in Jan., his wife was on her way from work when the front suspension simply failed, the left lower ball joint sheared off when she hit a pot hole, she lost control of the vehicle and hit a parked car. The airbag failed to deploy, she spent 3 days in the hospital. Two weeks later, they bought a 2 yr old lease return Pathfinder. Yes, they have a large payment on it, but, it has a warranty good for another 3 yrs (which should give him time to put at least some money in the bank).


Dave Ramsey and others like him make assumptions about things. They assume that everyone gets paid the same amount every week/2 weeks/ twice a month, that people are on salary or make a flat wage with very little change every check. I've heard him tell people several times to sell the vehicle they are making payments on. Ok, then what do they do? I've never heard someone tell him, this is my only vehicle, if I don't have it, I don't go to work. The trucking company I work for, the nearest bus stop is 2 miles away, the bus that services that stop only runs once an hour. In my case, to start work at 3 am (which I normally do), I would have to walk 2 miles to catch the first bus at 10:38 pm, ride that bus 4 miles, wait until 11:13 pm to catch the next bus, take that bus 10 miles, catch the next bus at 12:01 am, then walk 1 miles through the worst part of town (where getting shot at 12:10 am is good possibility), catch the next bus at 12:14 am, and get to work at 12:45 am. So, what do I do for 2 hr and 15 minutes until my day can actually start? Oh, and the ride home at 3 pm, the reverse. I would basically get home in time to go back to work. How does Dave's system work now?


Anyhow, after this weekend, and some random looking, the wife and I had a long talk. I had my gall bladder out two weeks ago, so I can't ride my motorcycle for 4 weeks. As soon as I can ride, my pickup is going in the shop. I'll have them rebuild the front suspension, replace the front brakes and bleed the system, service the trans, and take a long hard look at my HVAC problem. From talking to them, they think they can fix it. Given the weather, I figure they can have it for up to two weeks. If they can get everything with the HVAC system working correctly, then I'll keep it for another year and get some extra money put in the bank. As well as get another bill paid off, so then maybe I'll be able to figure for a higher price tag and larger payment larger down payment.


Dave certainly would not recommend getting a 275k mile Honda accord. But neither would he recommend the other end of the automotive spectrum. Lots of perfectly reliable vehicles for $4-5K range.

But you can buy whatever you want. Just my opinion thrown out to you on a forum!

If you decide to get one of your choices, go with the cummins... Nice trucks, and you will always find a use for 800 lb ft of torque.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
If you lived in the rust belt I could see you having this dilemma but living in Colorado puts us in a very good situation for older used vehicles.
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Unlike other parts of the country where heavy salt will destroy a vehicle in just a few years, vehicles can easily last decades out here. My current "nice" vehicle is a 2007 4runnner that has almost 140,000 miles on it and it runs like new. My DD is a 1996 Mazda B2300 (A/K/A Ford Ranger) with a 2.3, 5 speed, 2wd that gets about 25mpg and cost me exactly $2000 in 2013. Since I bought it I have spend about $110 repairing a leaky rear axle. That's it for repairs, although I also threw in a new stereo ($135 at Crutchfield) and a fiberglass topper ($200 on CL and it's even color matched. I did have to buy gas struts for the topper at $15 ea, though.) Wife has a 1995 Jeep YJ (last year of the YJ) with a 4 cyl and 5 speed that is sitting at just a hair under 200k and the only money we've had to put into it was to fix stuff we broke while 4 wheeling.
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My point is that if you need to tell yourself that a new vehicle is "necessary" in order to avoid the horror stories you hear from other people, then I guess that's what you'll do but there are lots of us out here driving 100k+ mile vehicles with no issues whatsoever. Are there POS vehicles out there? Sure but there are also lots and lots of low priced vehicles in perfect running condition.
 

colodak

Adventurer
Sadly, most of the stuff in my area, in the $4K to $5K range, at least in a 4wd, are ultra high mileage, at least 10 to 15 yrs old and have a sketchy history. Again, if I'm going to spend $5K for something, that I might have to put another $5K in to keep running for 2 or 3 three years, I would be better off keeping my existing vehicle.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Midsize I would wait till the new Tacoma and new Frontier hit the market, they will dilute the pent up demand for smaller footprint modern pickups thus ending GM's high demand ride on the new colorado/canyons. My experience is that GM dealers are the sleeziest of just about all makes given GM probably sells the highest number of vehicles to unknowing and debt ridden customers. Which translates to far higher successes in selling vehicles at high prices and lousy loan rates.
 

POS

New member
As an owner of an auto parts store for past 15 years, I can say with full confidence that you shouldn't buy a +100k Dodge truck. When new, the Dodges are cheaper than the Fords and Chevys because their parts don't last as long, and the parts are expensive to buy and replace. I like the look and feel of the dodges, but I know too much now.

The Fords are tough as nails and parts last well over 150k miles, and the Chevys are the same but have less expensive parts than both the Ford and the Dodge. All of us parts guys, btw, drive Chevys. Best built, cheaper parts when the time comes. Dodges keep me in business - you'd be amazed...
 

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