Oregon Trailer Inspired build on a M116A1 platform (Updated Pullout Kitchen 2020)
- Thread starter andrew22ha
- Start date
andrew22ha
Member
Thanks!
Windows are being installed now in the doors. They were back ordered so I finally received them. I am painting the inside doors first after cutting out the windows prior to install. Should be done this week and upload pics.
Teardropper
Well-known member
How do the doors seal?
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T
andrew22ha
Member
The doors have rubber trim seal that I have ordered. I will also be installing a drip edge to help keep the water from the top edge.
andrew22ha
Member
Thank you WV, there are many errors that I have made, but it has been a fun build.
Once I convinced myself I was not a professional trailer builder and there would be some not so great moments in the build, it made it much easier to jump in and do this.
Teardropper
Well-known member
Then the seals will go between the walls and the door or are you building an interior lip to seal to?
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andrew22ha
Member
So I have struggled with the seal and it is because my door isn't but perfectly. The first rubber trim seal was not deep enough so I replaced with larger bulb D style seal and now the door has issues closing. So I believe to fix the problem, I am going to have to do an interior lip that will be caulked with silicone and then rubber trim seal.
Finally got the windows installed in the door this weekend. Will post pics later today
andrew22ha
Member
Doors now have windows, and I installed the drain pipe for the sink. Next up is building the tongue box to house electrical. Then I can hook up the pump and water resevoir. 
andrew22ha
Member
Been awhile since an update and it has been slow going.
The doors still leaked and I needed a break. Honestly, these doors almost had me abandon this project and has been the most challenging thing I have ever done. After much research and reading other people's stories, I think that I figured out that the wood warped after I cut it out from the main sides and just got worse over time. I know the gap wasn't as large as it was when I first cut the doors. So after trying three different rubber trim seals I finally found one that worked along with installing the drip cap over the top. I was hoping not to do this. But it was successful and I leak tested it by direct jet spray of the hose and then parked it outside of the garage for the Florida afternoon down pours we get daily in the summer. I jumped in during a monsoon and watched the doors and trim seals to see of any leaking. Passed with flying colors Finally. But I did have to shim the one hinge further out and will need to remake a spacer for that hinge.
If I could go back in time, I would absolutely shell out the money for prefab doors. Such a huge pain and something I have been trying to fix for 6 weeks now.
But now it is time to move on to Electrical. I am building the tongue box now and will spray line it with Either Line-X or Raptor. The LineX guy gave me a ridiculous price so I might do it myself with the Raptor Product.
Tongue Box and Propane tank. I am not sure if I am going to mount the propane to the tongue box or the rear side of the trailer at the back near the galley. Not sure of the laws regarding that. I know I saw a few trailers on the forums in California that have mounted it at the rear side. I know I would rather have the protection of the tow vehicle by having it at the tongue box but then I am either cooking at the front away from the galley or I need to get a long hose so I can reach the back. Will continue to ponder that decision.
The doors still leaked and I needed a break. Honestly, these doors almost had me abandon this project and has been the most challenging thing I have ever done. After much research and reading other people's stories, I think that I figured out that the wood warped after I cut it out from the main sides and just got worse over time. I know the gap wasn't as large as it was when I first cut the doors. So after trying three different rubber trim seals I finally found one that worked along with installing the drip cap over the top. I was hoping not to do this. But it was successful and I leak tested it by direct jet spray of the hose and then parked it outside of the garage for the Florida afternoon down pours we get daily in the summer. I jumped in during a monsoon and watched the doors and trim seals to see of any leaking. Passed with flying colors Finally. But I did have to shim the one hinge further out and will need to remake a spacer for that hinge.
If I could go back in time, I would absolutely shell out the money for prefab doors. Such a huge pain and something I have been trying to fix for 6 weeks now.
But now it is time to move on to Electrical. I am building the tongue box now and will spray line it with Either Line-X or Raptor. The LineX guy gave me a ridiculous price so I might do it myself with the Raptor Product.
Tongue Box and Propane tank. I am not sure if I am going to mount the propane to the tongue box or the rear side of the trailer at the back near the galley. Not sure of the laws regarding that. I know I saw a few trailers on the forums in California that have mounted it at the rear side. I know I would rather have the protection of the tow vehicle by having it at the tongue box but then I am either cooking at the front away from the galley or I need to get a long hose so I can reach the back. Will continue to ponder that decision.
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andrew22ha
Member
I also made progress on the galley. I painted it white but I am going to get a sheet of stainless steel for the counter tops. The paint is not food safe and white isn't going to last.
Also the cubby without a door highlights one of my mistakes. The faucet I installed is too tall and the door would hit it and not open. Not sure yet what I am going to do, but probably just paint the inside white and chalk it up as inexperience
I also changed my mind about the cooler being in the left area. I can't really open the lid all the way, so I think I am going to move the cooler and create another counter top with storage underneath. This gives us more food prep workspace. I will store the cooler in the tow vehicle at night or break down and shell out the cash for a bear proof super cooler like a Yeti. It just burns me to pay that kind of money but I will put that decision off for now.
Also the cubby without a door highlights one of my mistakes. The faucet I installed is too tall and the door would hit it and not open. Not sure yet what I am going to do, but probably just paint the inside white and chalk it up as inexperience
I also changed my mind about the cooler being in the left area. I can't really open the lid all the way, so I think I am going to move the cooler and create another counter top with storage underneath. This gives us more food prep workspace. I will store the cooler in the tow vehicle at night or break down and shell out the cash for a bear proof super cooler like a Yeti. It just burns me to pay that kind of money but I will put that decision off for now.
MikeHenderson
Member
Nice work!
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
andrew22ha
Member
All I can say is WOW. Looks fantastic
Thanks Stomper, it has been a fun, frustrating and incredibly rewarding project so far. I am anxious to get it out in the wild but at the same time, I know I am not ready. I am shooting for October to head to the mountains of North Carolina to do a test run. So I need to get the electrical and water done.
andrew22ha
Member
Tongue Box is done. Plywood base and then coated with Raptor Roll on Bed Liner. Worked out great. Now ready for electronics and battery.
