GarrettMcS
New member
Trying to mod my 17' Casita to be as off-road capable as possible. Interested in learning the pros and cons of leaf-spring vs dexter torsion axle (both with shock absorber). Any other advice for my mod is greatly appreciated!
Overland Mod Casita Axle
- Thread starter GarrettMcS
- Start date
vintageracer
To Infinity and Beyond!
I would look at a simple axle flip IF you currently have leaf springs or a different down angle replacement axle if you currently have a Torsion axle installed in your trailer. Timbren axle less suspensions are an excellent although expensive choice to add to your trailer for off-road use however that will require fabrication to attach the "Timbrens" to the trailer frame.
I would seriously consider adding lower sliders to the frame to keep the fiberglass shell from getting busted and some folks have added an exo-skelton around the shell for added rigidity and shell protection.
One of the bigger limiting issues with any shell camper is the light duty frames installed under these trailers from the factory. It will not take much off-road travel to shake the shell apart. Check the elevator bolts that hold the shell to the frame often as then do tend to rust and break.
Here are a few shots stolen from another member here on the site with a fiberglass shell trailer prepared for off-road use.
I would seriously consider adding lower sliders to the frame to keep the fiberglass shell from getting busted and some folks have added an exo-skelton around the shell for added rigidity and shell protection.
One of the bigger limiting issues with any shell camper is the light duty frames installed under these trailers from the factory. It will not take much off-road travel to shake the shell apart. Check the elevator bolts that hold the shell to the frame often as then do tend to rust and break.
Here are a few shots stolen from another member here on the site with a fiberglass shell trailer prepared for off-road use.
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Mundo4x4Casa
West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
Vintage is correct. Commercial trailer frames and suspensions for camping trailers are not made to do much off roading. There are scant few brands that can take that kind of punishment. The trouble is, the Casita is a fine looking rig for camping, but not so much for hard core off roading. Find a fabricator that can boost the survivability of your trailer frame. It may be a hit on your wallet. Yes, you want SOA (springs-over-axle) to get a lot more clearance. The other thing is the use of so-called, 'trailer leaf springs': they are way to stiff, way to short and way to wimpy for rough roads. You want a lot of thin leaves to have something left to camp in when you get to your destination. Long half ton pickup springs would be a good substitute, or find one of the many vendors on here that specialize in turning you boulevard queen into a dirt road demon. Of course, then add the correct pressure shock absorbers to the axle. On washboard, I would lower the pressure in the tires to get a lot more flex in the sidewalls and becoming defacto part of the suspension. One more thing: Check the connecting hardware from frame to camper box to see if they can use some larger fender washers to spread the stress that will surely be there, off road. After a few years of off roading my truck camper, the truck's bed had pulled one of the 4-3/8 inch bolts right through the frame hanger allowing it to sway in one direction. That's not good. So I put wide fender washers on all four corners and this did the trick.
Do I have experience with trailer springs? 1974. Baja. Vizciano Desert. 150 miles on two track to Malarrimo, the most remote place I've ever been. One main spring snapped in half at the centering hole. We were stranded. One friend said just to ditch the custom made ConFer Toyota jeep trailer. We tried ironwood as a mainspring. Not good. Finally we removed the axle and hoisted the trailer right onto the hood of the FJ-55 for the long ride back to Guerrero Negro. Of course all we could see was the bottom of the trailer so had to drive with the doors wide open and leaning out to see if we were clear of any obstruction. Here we tried a piece of ironwood as a mainspring. That clearly didn't work.
Next step was to remove the axle and hoist the carcass over the hood with the tongue over the windshield.
The tomba burro held it in place. We then loaded the axle, wheels and stuff that was already in the trailer.
With 5 men in the car and all our stuff, the suspension all around was down to the snubbers.
The view from the back seat of the FJ-55:
jefe
Do I have experience with trailer springs? 1974. Baja. Vizciano Desert. 150 miles on two track to Malarrimo, the most remote place I've ever been. One main spring snapped in half at the centering hole. We were stranded. One friend said just to ditch the custom made ConFer Toyota jeep trailer. We tried ironwood as a mainspring. Not good. Finally we removed the axle and hoisted the trailer right onto the hood of the FJ-55 for the long ride back to Guerrero Negro. Of course all we could see was the bottom of the trailer so had to drive with the doors wide open and leaning out to see if we were clear of any obstruction. Here we tried a piece of ironwood as a mainspring. That clearly didn't work.
Next step was to remove the axle and hoist the carcass over the hood with the tongue over the windshield.
The tomba burro held it in place. We then loaded the axle, wheels and stuff that was already in the trailer.
With 5 men in the car and all our stuff, the suspension all around was down to the snubbers.
The view from the back seat of the FJ-55:
jefe
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“Do I have experience with trailer springs? 1974. Baja.”
Now that’s a story that catches one’s interest! Thanks for sharing Casa.
I too suggest if you have leaf springs, go with the advice given thus far. As for the torsion axles, I offer the following. We have a couple military trailers at work that use them, our UTV towed trailer uses them and my tent trailer has one. Pros are no axle tube to hit on stuff, and it kinda acts like independent suspension. They are supposed to be smoother riding. My tent trailer is an old Viking and they used to use those for selling points. If your Casita has a Dexter torsion axle and installed as Dexter designed, they make a lift kit for their axle that gives 2 or 3 inches or so of lift. Cons I know of are light loaded, our trailers still ride like log trucks. Over a long time, the internals wear and the arms will sag. I don’t know if they are rebuildable or not. Some advertising says that the arms can be adjusted up or down for ride height. I know if adjusted much, it will require re aligning the axle to the frame to center the tires in the wheel wells.
Good luck however you go about it....
Now that’s a story that catches one’s interest! Thanks for sharing Casa.
I too suggest if you have leaf springs, go with the advice given thus far. As for the torsion axles, I offer the following. We have a couple military trailers at work that use them, our UTV towed trailer uses them and my tent trailer has one. Pros are no axle tube to hit on stuff, and it kinda acts like independent suspension. They are supposed to be smoother riding. My tent trailer is an old Viking and they used to use those for selling points. If your Casita has a Dexter torsion axle and installed as Dexter designed, they make a lift kit for their axle that gives 2 or 3 inches or so of lift. Cons I know of are light loaded, our trailers still ride like log trucks. Over a long time, the internals wear and the arms will sag. I don’t know if they are rebuildable or not. Some advertising says that the arms can be adjusted up or down for ride height. I know if adjusted much, it will require re aligning the axle to the frame to center the tires in the wheel wells.
Good luck however you go about it....
T4R3
New member
I'm in the process of doing this myself. I just ordered my 45 down angle Torflex with a 3 inch lift from Redneck Trailer. 5200-6000# class, AP-166 bracketed, 12"x2" self adjusting electric drum brakes, EZ-Lube spindles, 6 on 5.5" studs to match my 4Runner wheels with BFG KO2s 285-75-R16 (33"), 4 week delivery from date of order for $881.10.
I'm replacing the 2" ball hitch with the Max Coupler CUOR265 from CU Offroad. It's a 3 way gimbled direct fit hitch that also works quite well as a theft deterrent because you need the the matching receiver hitch in order to move it. You could probably still tow it with something like a towing company wrecker or tilt bed truck, but that's what it would take.
I'm also thinking of getting this shock absorber mounting kit from Perfect Casita. I'll probably need a different shock absorber though... Bilsteins? =D
This has been done successfully before on this site in 2011. New offroad casita project. I'm trying to see if he has any photos of his axle install & will relay that link here when/if I get any.
I put Timbrens on my previous trailer & I loved them, but to do so you need a 2" square tube frame to bolt on to. The factory frame under a Casita won't work. In researching this project a couple of months ago, I have seen another person who did just that & mounted a 17' Casita on a custom frame but it cost about 10x what my new Torflex did.
I'm not going to be doing any hard core off roading with it but it would be nice to be able to negotiate a level 6 road or a BLM/USFS fire road once in a while.
I'm replacing the 2" ball hitch with the Max Coupler CUOR265 from CU Offroad. It's a 3 way gimbled direct fit hitch that also works quite well as a theft deterrent because you need the the matching receiver hitch in order to move it. You could probably still tow it with something like a towing company wrecker or tilt bed truck, but that's what it would take.
I'm also thinking of getting this shock absorber mounting kit from Perfect Casita. I'll probably need a different shock absorber though... Bilsteins? =D
This has been done successfully before on this site in 2011. New offroad casita project. I'm trying to see if he has any photos of his axle install & will relay that link here when/if I get any.
I put Timbrens on my previous trailer & I loved them, but to do so you need a 2" square tube frame to bolt on to. The factory frame under a Casita won't work. In researching this project a couple of months ago, I have seen another person who did just that & mounted a 17' Casita on a custom frame but it cost about 10x what my new Torflex did.
I'm not going to be doing any hard core off roading with it but it would be nice to be able to negotiate a level 6 road or a BLM/USFS fire road once in a while.
Please show photos of your wheel and hub once you have them.
I came across a hurdle with dexter axle and 4Runner wheels. The dexter hub is smaller than 4rnr bore. Not easy to maintain concentrity when using flange nuts. Tapered nut would mash the alloy on the wheels.
Max coupler May be a deterrent to the run of the mill thief. An experienced thief might simply tow it using your safety chains snugged up tight.
I came across a hurdle with dexter axle and 4Runner wheels. The dexter hub is smaller than 4rnr bore. Not easy to maintain concentrity when using flange nuts. Tapered nut would mash the alloy on the wheels.
Max coupler May be a deterrent to the run of the mill thief. An experienced thief might simply tow it using your safety chains snugged up tight.
T4R3
New member
Yeah, I will. It'll be about 4 weeks before it comes in. I had the same problem with Timbren axles & 4Runner wheels, but a pair of wheel spacers took care of that problem. It should be interesting if the Lippert Torflex axle has the same design (flaw). You'd be right about using the safety chains to tow the Casita away but I have that already covered with the chains being removable. I also have a 30' x 5/8" steel cable that I run through both wheels, around the frame & locked with a USFS hockey puck gate lock, to a tree or some other anchor. I'm sure there are easier targets out there than mine.
T4R3
New member
This is a great idea that I didn't think of & super cheap <$15 for 4 on Amazon. Discount Tire mentions them on their site & may also have them which is where I'm going to get the tires at. The Timbrens needed the spacers because the spindle OD was wider at the base of the hub than the wheel's ID. I'll have to see what I'll need when they arrive. Although I'm going to make sure the lug studs the install are the same thread & pitch as Toyota.
krebsatm02
Observer
Following. Have a 16' Casita that we just dragged down Padre Island National Seashore with our 4runner. I think I groomed half the beach by dragging it over the deep ruts. I'd love to lift it and match rims and tires. Luckily I have the know how and resources to do all my own fabrication and machining. I've even thought about building a new frame for it with more tongue space and rear space.
Waltzing Matilda
Adventurer
Great story! Good reminder of why so many of us love to head south, and carry our toolboxes with us.
(OTOH- just another day for pescaderos in Baja)
(OTOH- just another day for pescaderos in Baja)
krebsatm02
Observer
From mocking up the spare from the 4Runner on the Casita, I think it will look silly, but I'm going to try it anyways. I'd really like to chop the fiberglass a little, but I'm not well versed in that... Might take a few beers to get up that courage. Not doing anything until I find matching 4Runner rims.
Lionsgarage
Scoutfollower
I'm in the middle of a 6" lift (leaf spring conversion) on my 17SD casita, along with several other mods, I'll try to get some pics posted.
The leaf spring conversion w/a heavier 5200# axle on 4200# springs is the prefered way to go and the one we went with after the initial Perfect Casita lift and shock kit try and finding the weight was 3600#'s on a scale.
It's currently riding on 265 x 16 E rated Coopers with plenty of clearance. A PC bolt-on tongue extension was added and the original frame reinforced from hitch to past cabin as was the section between leaf shackles.
An electric jack was added to facilitate a leverless WD hitch set-up and no friction anti-sway program. Its tows straight without any sway at 65 mph in a port quarter 70 knot squal storm wind. I can not get it to sway.
Next up rubber wheel flares with aluminum diamond plate lining the wheel wells and aft frame reinforcement for added reciever hitches for a MotoTote mount to carry a T-dub w/o rocking.
Upgraded shocks might be on the horizon too, the included Dexters seem a bit wimpy.
It's currently riding on 265 x 16 E rated Coopers with plenty of clearance. A PC bolt-on tongue extension was added and the original frame reinforced from hitch to past cabin as was the section between leaf shackles.
An electric jack was added to facilitate a leverless WD hitch set-up and no friction anti-sway program. Its tows straight without any sway at 65 mph in a port quarter 70 knot squal storm wind. I can not get it to sway.
Next up rubber wheel flares with aluminum diamond plate lining the wheel wells and aft frame reinforcement for added reciever hitches for a MotoTote mount to carry a T-dub w/o rocking.
Upgraded shocks might be on the horizon too, the included Dexters seem a bit wimpy.