Overland Sprinter Build
- Thread starter luthj
- Start date
luthj
Engineer In Residence
You can always make the bin a bit shorter, and attach tabs to the upper surface. Just an inch on either side is enough to catch the retaining tab. If you have clearance on the left/right, you could use spring pins, or even screws. They would need to be removed to allow the bin to be extracted.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Another 800 miles on the van. Had to do a roadside repair when an intercooler hose suddenly developed a 3" split. 20 minutes and back on the road. I have had that silicone rescue tape for 8 years, and of course some 50lb zip ties. Held great. I had a spare for that hose, but swapped it in NZ, and forgot to replace...
I need to weigh the van, but I bet it was at 9k lbs loaded up for the move.
I need to weigh the van, but I bet it was at 9k lbs loaded up for the move.
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luthj
Engineer In Residence
Starting the ball rolling on some upgrades. Shower pan steel and curtain have been ordered.
I am playing with a 5k BTU window unit. Its 100% mechanical, and surprisingly quiet.
It seems to be keeping up with the heat load. Its 90F currently with 60% humidity. It took about 2 hours to get the humidity down in the van. Power consumption is about 450W currently but the temps aren't crazy currently.
My thoughts are to break the unit into two pieces. The compressor, fan, and condenser will go under the van in the spare tire area. Its only about 11" tall, so it should fit fine there. The evaporator will be relocated into a cabinet. Maybe above the rear doors? Since the unit uses a capillary tube and R32, it would probably be best to swap to a Temperature expansion valve, there seem to be 1/2 ton rated valves for R134A. That would let me charge it myself to save some money.
Its possible to swap the capillary tube for a size that's correct for R134A, and I may still go that route.
I am playing with a 5k BTU window unit. Its 100% mechanical, and surprisingly quiet.
It seems to be keeping up with the heat load. Its 90F currently with 60% humidity. It took about 2 hours to get the humidity down in the van. Power consumption is about 450W currently but the temps aren't crazy currently.
My thoughts are to break the unit into two pieces. The compressor, fan, and condenser will go under the van in the spare tire area. Its only about 11" tall, so it should fit fine there. The evaporator will be relocated into a cabinet. Maybe above the rear doors? Since the unit uses a capillary tube and R32, it would probably be best to swap to a Temperature expansion valve, there seem to be 1/2 ton rated valves for R134A. That would let me charge it myself to save some money.
Its possible to swap the capillary tube for a size that's correct for R134A, and I may still go that route.
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luthj
Engineer In Residence
In this case shipping isn't discounted for smaller quantities. I could do a pallet and save some money, maybe.
www.alibaba.com
The seller will discount the shipping by 50$ per 4pack if you opt for slower ocean freight and ground vs air express.
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Szxuba Ev Lifepo4 Prismatic Cells 280ah Lifepo4 Rechargeable 3.2v 280ah Li-ion Lithium Battery For Solar System - Buy Lifepo4 Prismatic Cells 280ah li-ion Lithium Battery 3.2v 280ah Lifepo4 Battery Cell Product on Alibaba.com
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Okay, I think I have reached a conclusion with the AC unit. I am going to cut it in half. The fan motor, compressor, and condenser will go under the van in the spare tire area. I will add high/low service ports and silver solder an appropriate copper line set. The evaporator and controls will go above the rear doors pointing over the bed. Since the fan motor is going with the condenser, I will need a 12V blower for the evaporator. Looks like a 40W centrifugal blower will work. If I am careful I think I can use the same filter and outlet vents to keep my cost/labor down.
The unit currently uses a short capillary tube as a metering device, and its charged with R32. I could swap to an expansion valve for 134A (or any other compatible refrigerant). For capacity reasons, I would like to stick with R32 or 410A. I don't see any issue with keeping the capillary tube, though I may need to go with a larger line set for pressure drop reasons. I will need to pay a HVAC tech to evac and charge the system.
Total cost should be pretty low, and if the unit craps out I can just replace components as needed. I believe the silver solder should work fine with these sized lines. I would like to avoid brazing for various reasons.
The unit currently uses a short capillary tube as a metering device, and its charged with R32. I could swap to an expansion valve for 134A (or any other compatible refrigerant). For capacity reasons, I would like to stick with R32 or 410A. I don't see any issue with keeping the capillary tube, though I may need to go with a larger line set for pressure drop reasons. I will need to pay a HVAC tech to evac and charge the system.
Total cost should be pretty low, and if the unit craps out I can just replace components as needed. I believe the silver solder should work fine with these sized lines. I would like to avoid brazing for various reasons.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
I am working towards an order of 8x 280AH LFP cells. The recent advances in LFP tech have yielded some supremely high density cells. A 560AH pack with these cells is less than 1 cubic foot, and weighs ~100lbs. Due to the small size, exterior mounting becomes more reasonable. With 1/2" of insulation, the resulting box would only need ~46W of heat input with a delta T of 55F. Which seems pretty reasonable. Going to 3/4" insulation yields a ~30W heating load. While interior mounting is an option, I am always short on space. Currently I am considering exterior mounting in the spare tire area. I was considering cutting out a section of the floor, and making a flanged, doubled walled, drop in box. Should be pretty easy to order some laser cut aluminum and assembly by welding. Though I may go with mild steel for ease of welding and cost.
boardrider247
Weekend warrior anarchist
Following along for battery info.
And just a reminder on the AC, you'll need a condensate drain ?
And just a reminder on the AC, you'll need a condensate drain ?
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Indeed. For added efficiency, I think I will route the drain to the condenser pan. The unit is already designed to fling water up into the coils.
You may have already started cutting, but, have you considered something like this:
Pioneer 9,000 BTU 3/4 Ton 19.5 SEER Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump Variable Speed DC Inverter+ System 110/120V-WYS009AMFI19RL-16 - The Home Depot
For full technical specs and other Information, Please refer to the pdhvac website. Pioneer's newest WYS series wall mount mini split ductless Inverter+ air conditioning and heat pump system allows heating
www.homedepot.com
Higher cost, but likely more efficient, and already designed to be connected on both sides of a wall.
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luthj
Engineer In Residence
I gave mini splits significant consideration. But they are much larger on both sides, and units under ~9k BTU don't seem to exist in the USA. So a definite negative is about 2x the volume for the unit itself.
The condensers and compressors are almost always vertical mount. Where would I put it? I have no locations except bolting it to the bumper. I could mount it horizontal, and it might fit under the van somewhere. But $700+ is a lot to spend on something that may get killed by water crossings and dust.
The condensers and compressors are almost always vertical mount. Where would I put it? I have no locations except bolting it to the bumper. I could mount it horizontal, and it might fit under the van somewhere. But $700+ is a lot to spend on something that may get killed by water crossings and dust.
You may have already started cutting, but, have you considered something like this:
Pioneer 9,000 BTU 3/4 Ton 19.5 SEER Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump Variable Speed DC Inverter+ System 110/120V-WYS009AMFI19RL-16 - The Home Depot
For full technical specs and other Information, Please refer to the pdhvac website. Pioneer's newest WYS series wall mount mini split ductless Inverter+ air conditioning and heat pump system allows heatingwww.homedepot.com
Higher cost, but likely more efficient, and already designed to be connected on both sides of a wall.
I was guessing that you were aware of mini splits, but just in case, I thought I would mention them. You are quite aware of them and ruled them out for your application.
That good old expedition-vehicle volume-time-money triangle!
Or is it,
That good old expedition-vehicle volume-time-money-weight tetrahedron?
...