Overlands Fridge Test,

[67cj5]

Having just read the above test the results stated do not match the graphs,

It says QUOTE,
the ARB held its own but only scored midfield. Not the fastest to cool, most efficient, or best insulated, there are still very compelling reasons to own this model. END QUOTE,

But when you look at the cool down chart it took 3 hours to cool down, where as the Engel and the Dometic and the Engel took 3 and a half hours and the national luna 5L took a whopping 6 hours to cool down, and in the warm up test the Dometic and Snowmaster and Engel "All" got warmer than the rest of those on test, And as for the power usage The ARB 60L use's the same pump as the 47L and on test the 60L uses 0.638 Amps per hour, or 9.97 amps in 15h 38mins, See the video below, So being physically smaller one would think that the ARB 47L would use even less power and it does

I have never seen and ARB take that long to cool down unless it has a Gas leak, Having tested the ARB 47L hour by hour and sometimes minute by minute and recording current draws of less than 0.67A to0.71A on average and even recording even less power when left undisturbed, there is no way does the Engel or the Dometic use less power. Sorry but your results do not match real world testing. And the Engel MT45 is a 40L fridge not 45L.

ARB 60L = 0.638A
Waeco cfx 50L = 0.92A
Engel 40L Legacy = 0.932A


https://expeditionportal.com/electric-icebox-roundup/

 

[john61ct]

Note that amps per hour is not meaningful.

AH per hour is correct.

And watt-hours even better, especially when voltage may fluctuate.

And for efficiency comparisons (which I consider pretty unimportant), best to use watt-hours per 24 hours, ensuring all conditions are held constant across all units tested.

Energy usage can vary from under 10AH per 24 hours, up to 70AH or more for any one given model, and at least a dozen factors influence that variability.

 

[vtsoundman]

Note that amps per hour is not meaningful.

AH per hour is correct.

And watt-hours even better, especially when voltage may fluctuate.

And for efficiency comparisons (which I consider pretty unimportant), best to use watt-hours per 24 hours, ensuring all conditions are held constant across all units tested.

Energy usage can vary from under 10AH per 24 hours, up to 70AH or more for any one given model, and at least a dozen factors influence that variability.

Violently Agree...except for two things: it is Ah (not AH) and Wh efficiency is very important for systems that sit for a few days before having access to charge power.

I no long bother with solar if I am going to be in one spot for 2 nights 3 days, my aux battery is more than large enough...

These tests drive me nuts...I hate them as they need never include enough information to make a proper decision. Cool down/warm up time? - Ok, but how about ability to withstand electrical transients without kicking offline? What about the accuracy of UV cut-out, amount of current used at startup in various conditions, use Wh as the efficiency metric instead Ah, which is somewhat meaningless if the voltage changes unit by unit (depend on battery). Where is the evaluation of the cord connection robustness? Why isn't attention drawn to the unbelievable lame method of power cord connection for most of these units?

Ah is becoming a more and more of colloquial term as more people adopt lithium...I've never liked it and I have been working with batteries for years. Wh is the correct metric for evaluating efficiency and it defines energy.

 

[67cj5]

Violently Agree...except for two things: it is Ah (not AH) and Wh efficiency is very important for systems that sit for a few days before having access to charge power.

I no long bother with solar if I am going to be in one spot for 2 nights 3 days, my aux battery is more than large enough...

These tests drive me nuts...I hate them as they need never include enough information to make a proper decision. Cool down/warm up time? - Ok, but how about ability to withstand electrical transients without kicking offline? What about the accuracy of UV cut-out, amount of current used at startup in various conditions, use Wh as the efficiency metric instead Ah, which is somewhat meaningless if the voltage changes unit by unit (depend on battery). Where is the evaluation of the cord connection robustness? Why isn't attention drawn to the unbelievable lame method of power cord connection for most of these units?

Ah is becoming a more and more of colloquial term as more people adopt lithium...I've never liked it and I have been working with batteries for years. Wh is the correct metric for evaluating efficiency and it defines energy.

Funny how real world testing always show way better performance than these tests ever produce.

 

[vtsoundman]

Funny how real world testing always show way better performance than these tests ever produce.

Very True, my Dometic CFX65dz and his ARB (50L?) ran off the same model of 100aH battery (mfr'd a few weeks apart) and got roughly the same use. My Dometic drew about 25% less energy according to our Victron BMV712 meters over a day so than his did...both covered, both out of the sun. The difference? The install...I gave mine room to breath and I have a small USB fan inside that moves air around. I also have a muffin fan that kicks on if it senses too high a temp at the outlet... A rather unscientific comparison, but nothing in these shootouts give any sort of hit of what happens when these fridges are actually used (ex: half or more of the vents are blocked)...

 

[67cj5]

Very True, my Dometic CFX65dz and his ARB (50L?) ran off the same model of 100aH battery (mfr'd a few weeks apart) and got roughly the same use. My Dometic drew about 25% less energy according to our Victron BMV712 meters over a day so than his did...both covered, both out of the sun. The difference? The install...I gave mine room to breath and I have a small USB fan inside that moves air around. I also have a muffin fan that kicks on if it senses too high a temp at the outlet... A rather unscientific comparison, but nothing in these shootouts give any sort of hit of what happens when these fridges are actually used (ex: half or more of the vents are blocked)...

Yeah it's crazy, I have gone over all the tests as far back as 2005ish and they all post different results, The fact that the national luna takes 6 hours to cool down and not 3 hours like the others yet it gets higher praise, and it is a well known fact that they are power Hogs, so how on earth does that make them better, This test is so Stacked it's not funny.

 

[john61ct]

I have a small USB fan inside that moves air around. I also have a muffin fan that kicks on if it senses too high a temp at the outlet...

Their consumption included?

Caps intentional, my point stands wrt "amps per time" same with watts.

I use AH when V is pretty fixed, wH when conversion is involved.

How batteries are rated. . .

 

[vtsoundman]

The small USB internal fan runs continuously... completely eliminated all the thermal statification except if the food is packed too tightly. It is a 120mm 5v with a speed control...it runs on low.

The external fan only runs above a setpoint and if the cooler is running...

 

[john61ct]

Yes, my question is, in comparing the consumption of the two fridges, was the extra energy used by those fans included?

 

[vtsoundman]

Yes

 

[Stumpalump]

They are all similar enough so I recomend looking at wich way it opens. Where the vents are and dimensions to see if it fits in the hole that you want to stick it in. The only test I'd like to see is what one will run the battery down the lowest. I know my ARB will shut off way to early. I wish it would run down to 11 volts but it won't run in the low 12 volt range. Extra battery and solar fixed that but it needs full voltage. I'm not sure if any others are better but if they are that would be a top priority for me.

 

[john61ct]

Burn your bank out drawing that low you will.

Not like fridge is essential to safety or anything.

Need more energy inputs you do