Overlandtowater
Well-known member
We’ll I guess I’ll be looking for a 1 ton rear. Don’t do hot rod stuff with something this heavy. 
Overlandtowater’s solid axle suburban
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Overlandtowater
Well-known member
well its better now than 15 miles down a trial 6 hours from home... If a couple of 0-60 runs took something out I'm positive in low range on the rocks would have left me stranded on my upcoming trip.. well not upcoming anymore not enough time to find and axle replace what needs be and weld on the brackets to make it work....
Did you grenade the rear?
Tahoe's had a habit of blowing up rear ends. These were heavy "pursuit" rated PPV's. I drove a 2006 and a 2010 for over 8 years. The other Tahoes in our fleet blew up rear ends at around 100k. That was from multiple 0- 100 launches, sometimes from a gravel median, more often on pavement.
At least i never had to pay for it
Sorry to heat about the setback. especially since you had that thing up in the air for so long
Tahoe's had a habit of blowing up rear ends. These were heavy "pursuit" rated PPV's. I drove a 2006 and a 2010 for over 8 years. The other Tahoes in our fleet blew up rear ends at around 100k. That was from multiple 0- 100 launches, sometimes from a gravel median, more often on pavement.
At least i never had to pay for it
Sorry to heat about the setback. especially since you had that thing up in the air for so long
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
Did you grenade the rear?
Tahoe's had a habit of blowing up rear ends. These were heavy "pursuit" rated PPV's. I drove a 2006 and a 2010 for over 8 years. The other Tahoes in our fleet blew up rear ends at around 100k. That was from multiple 0- 100 launches, sometimes from a gravel median, more often on pavement.
At least i never had to pay for it
Sorry to heat about the setback. especially since you had that thing up in the air for so long
I assume when I get it out I will know more, I'm looing into the Semi float 14 bolt that came in later model Tahoe's and Suburban's and Silverado's for that matter it is the 9.5" I really dont want the ff 14bolt because they hang so far down and 35's is as big as I'll ever go. "I think" but the just the hub conversion for FF 14 will cost as much as a Semi Floater plus gears. All the semi floaters I find have 3.42 gear sets so I will need to change them out. I also wonder if the G80 locker for the 9.5 is stronger than the 8.6...I know people say the g80 in the 10.5" 14 bolt is very strong for what we do..
It does suck but I should have found something other than a 10 bolt last time.. this is the second 10 bolt under it on 33s.
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
Here is the first pop. 0-60 runs compairing the times with the 3.73 gears vs 4.10.
https://youtube.com/shorts/BbHH7dDBkuI?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/BbHH7dDBkuI?feature=share
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
https://youtube.com/shorts/LfWXsUG-nwU?feature=share rice crispy' s
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
So it shattered the rectangular piece in the g80 and cleaned the driver side spider gear, it sent parts everywhere inside but surprisingly the gears look good. Now I have a dilemma replace the carrier and run the 10 bolt or buy a 9.5 rear from a newer model gm suv and swap to 4.10s
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
They go for any where around 200 to 500 around here. I’m going to take some measurements today to see if I can put move the brake backing plate mount from the 10 bolt to a older 9.5 that already has 4.10s. I’m confident in welding brackets on but not do with a gear change.
I was able to convert a GMT800 non HD 2500 truck semi float 9.5 to six lug with axle shafts out of a 2500 van. Kept the big 2500 calipers and used some rotors that match the dimensions (off a suburban I think). This was bolt in for my 1500 truck but since your burning in coil brackets it's an another option.
CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
I know exactly how hard you've been pushing your rear end to blow up the G80, and how far you drove with it after destroying it, been there done that. To keep things simple go with a Detroit locker which would require you to swap the ring gear onto the new carrier and possibly re-adjust the pinion depth. If you want a quick, easy and cheap route, rip everything out of the G80 carrier and put a lunchbox in.
Both of these options will give you a locking rear end with at least 100 less moving parts. Going to a Detroit locker was one of the best decisions I have made for my Sub.
Both of these options will give you a locking rear end with at least 100 less moving parts. Going to a Detroit locker was one of the best decisions I have made for my Sub.
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
I believe I’m going with a 14 bolt semi floater open diff and a lunch box locker in it. I have a steal on a ff 14 bolt with 4.10s already and I can convert my current dodge Dana 44 front to 8 lug with wheel bearings from an mid 90s 2500 light duty. But unsure if my current brake set up will work.
Does your 10 bolt have tone rings in the rear for abs? As long as the teeth are the same count, i would assume it would get a good signal. I belive the 2500 ff used the same axle from 2001 to 2010.
Edit: Rockauto is great to get a clue. I looked at a 2500HD ff 14 bolt wheel hub with ring to your 8.6 abs tone ring, and it is definitely different. Might not get the same signal after all.
The 9.5 and the 8.6 tone rings seem like the same part
(USA standard gear part number USA33565)
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Overlandtowater
Well-known member
. No tone rings in the rear. If I go ff in the rear and the light duty 2500 hubs in the front I will have to figure something out with the abs the dodge doesn’t have wheel speed sensors on the wheel bearings. I also looked and to convert the semi floater to 6 lug, change the gears, and rug up the brakes is going to be around 780 dollars if I do the gears my self. 6 lug hubs for the ff are around 700 so it’s a wash with either axle so bigger is better right?