Overlandtowater’s solid axle suburban

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Yes wheel seal leaking I thought I had ripped it putting the axle in but it’s leaking around the seal at the housing. I started to put rtv around the seal when installing them, wish I would have now.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
About 65 mph it gets a slight whine. I was hoping that I would get it but for my first gear setup reusing old gears it’s not as bad as I expected. Hopefully when I move up to 37s and swap in 4.88s I can setup the new gears to run quite.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Installed the winch over the weekend it’s an open road 13k, don’t think I could have built the bumper any better if I had the winch to build around. I put a strain on my crappy welds and nothing broke. I put my ‘22 superduty (company truck) in 4wd low put the transmission in neutral and locked the e brake. “Probably don’t try that at home kids”. The alumaduty is still heavier than the burb so I had to chock the front tires with 6x6 posts to drag the 250 but it did and nothing smoked or broke. Now I have a confidence booster that will probably cause body damage. 9ACC677F-BFF6-4CDD-8081-2ED691F21BF2.jpeg
 
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Bret+famx7

New member
I think we all go down the same exact road with these rigs. Leveled and 33s, yearning something just a touch more ... no bigger than 35s ... 37s or bust lol. I've been in contact with Tahoverlanding as well and I think I'll start the gathering phase here soon. Do you see any issues with using longer leveling coils and a lifted shock option to be able to capture slightly more travel? I've compared the Bilstein 5100 options for stock, leveled and lifted options and have found 1.5" leveling springs but he seemed pretty adamant that I don't bother modifying his recommendations. Do you think the radius arm design is the limiting factor for the flex or is it something else binding?
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Radius arm have binding by nature but mine droop far enough to drop a spring out. I plan on installing 2 or three inch springs when I upgrade to 37s. Now if you wanted to run longer springs and keep the truck level with the rear on 6” lift coils in the rear you would have to raise the coil buckets too high for with the factory coils or his coil buckets there just isn’t enough meat to get good strength using them raised above where they are designed, if that makes sense. He has it figured out really good and he’s kind of arrogant about it but he’s put in the time and has it figured out. I went against the grain (his recommendations) on most of my builds and waisted a lot of time and money. The stock coils offer plenty of droop for anything you should put one of these rigs through.
 

Bret+famx7

New member
Radius arm have binding by nature but mine droop far enough to drop a spring out. I plan on installing 2 or three inch springs when I upgrade to 37s. Now if you wanted to run longer springs and keep the truck level with the rear on 6” lift coils in the rear you would have to raise the coil buckets too high for with the factory coils or his coil buckets there just isn’t enough meat to get good strength using them raised above where they are designed, if that makes sense. He has it figured out really good and he’s kind of arrogant about it but he’s put in the time and has it figured out. I went against the grain (his recommendations) on most of my builds and waisted a lot of time and money. The stock coils offer plenty of droop for anything you should put one of these rigs through.
Makes sense. He did come off that way though, like nothing can be improved on at all. I was considering coilovers instead of ram coils and shocks but I think that'd be a far down the road modification if it ever was deemed needed. My philosophy was it has to be built regardless, why settle for stock springs and shocks when I need to weld in mounts anyway. But that's a whole different can of worms.
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Makes sense. He did come off that way though, like nothing can be improved on at all. I was considering coilovers instead of ram coils and shocks but I think that'd be a far down the road modification if it ever was deemed needed. My philosophy was it has to be built regardless, why settle for stock springs and shocks when I need to weld in mounts anyway. But that's a whole different can of worms.
I felt the same way when I started the build but thanI was thinking of ways to do it cheaper and ended up costing me more. ?
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Well a two tank shake down netted me a missing nut and bushing on the passenger side front shock, a very loose nut and bushing on the driver side, and loose yoke adapter I forgot to tack in the front output on the transfer case. Not terrible for being apart as long as it was. Yes the yoke adapter should be tack welded in it’s like a slip yoke eliminator of sorts 12C6EF1D-FAD3-48E1-B216-7B09B582C094.jpegE93785A6-7718-4927-B700-539F446C2F6D.jpeg9339C63C-0AD6-446D-869E-07260F0569FE.jpeg
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Awesome. So how do you feel about all your handy work, and hard work
I still need to do some stuff. I need longer shocks in the rear these are at least 3" too short but its great so far it turns way sharper than IFS, it rides like a caddy. I'm not so happy with is the steering is a little drifty but with the bent tie rod and drag link there is some movement when turning its only about a hands width before I get movement, but I also seen my steering box is puking so that may have slack in it too.
 

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