OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

dstefan

Well-known member
Does anybody have interior latches for your window hatches, either installed by Jay or DIY, that you can post a pictures or two of?

I’m trying to figure how to set up a latch on my windows to secure at night, but allow opening from the inside.
 

KellyM

Adventurer
Does anybody have interior latches for your window hatches, either installed by Jay or DIY, that you can post a pictures or two of?

I’m trying to figure how to set up a latch on my windows to secure at night, but allow opening from the inside.
Here are photos of the latches Jay installed.
IMG-4934.jpgIMG-4933.jpgIMG-4932.jpg
 
Hmmm a question, If you operate the slide latch from the inside and if someone push down the outside latches, it looks to me you would be locked inside the camper? Jeff
 

KellyM

Adventurer
Hmmm a question, If you operate the slide latch from the inside and if someone push down the outside latches, it looks to me you would be locked inside the camper? Jeff
That is an issue if you don't have opening windows. For me, I can pop the Artic Tern windows and open the outside latches from the inside.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
Hmmm a question, If you operate the slide latch from the inside and if someone push down the outside latches, it looks to me you would be locked inside the camper? Jeff
It depends on whether you have rear barn doors or not. Yes, the solid window hatches are not operable from inside with the latches I have. Certainly a limitation.

However, my rear half barn doors can be opened from the inside on my two year old Ovrlnd version while latched if I unlock the inside top bolt that gives the opposite door with the latches something solid to latch against and just push both doors open together.

Not sure what the story is for the standard back window lift-up hatch or on newer versions.

If you’re really concerned, one option on a new build might be to omit the exterior keyed latch from the solid window hatches and just use the interior bolt Jay is now offering as an option/including (not sure which).
 

Phessor

Member
It depends on whether you have rear barn doors or not. Yes, the solid window hatches are not operable from inside with the latches I have. Certainly a limitation.

However, my rear half barn doors can be opened from the inside on my two year old Ovrlnd version while latched if I unlock the inside top bolt that gives the opposite door with the latches something solid to latch against and just push both doors open together.

Not sure what the story is for the standard back window lift-up hatch or on newer versions.

If you’re really concerned, one option on a new build might be to omit the exterior keyed latch from the solid window hatches and just use the interior bolt Jay is now offering as an option/including (not sure which).

I have been wondering about how to secure the standard rear door as well, I also have a concern of being locked in as well, any help would be appreciated.
 

Fergie

Expedition Leader
Some quick pics of a short spring break camping trip w my kids and GF, along w my mother in her own OVRLND camper. First few are from SE AZ, near Clifton:



Second few are from a CG at an old CCC work camp from the 30s. Water levels were too high and too fast to do any fly fishing, and the Gilas I was chasing were likely towards the head waters for safety anyways. It was a cold ass morning for sure, and had lots of condensation, so the next plans are for some ventilation and for a propex.




In regards to the propex, is anyone using the HS2000 or with the volume of the camper on a 6.5' bed, would the larger HS2800 be more appropriate?
 

sideburns

Idaho 2019 Nissan Frontier CC LWB
In regards to the propex, is anyone using the HS2000 or with the volume of the camper on a 6.5' bed, would the larger HS2800 be more appropriate?

I run the HS2000 in my 6ft bed midsized truck, it can increase air temp by about 60°F running constantly, the air heats up fairly quickly(maybe 20-30 min to 55-60°F when its about 20°F out), but the thermal mass of all the cold gear take all night in cold temps and the aluminum of the camper and steel of the pickup bed never really heat up. I have the floor, ceiling, walls, and roof insulated, but haven't insulated the tent or the sides of my pickup bed or the aluminum framing. I've been happy with it down to single digits, when propane fuel itself starts to have issues. Still get occasional condensation on the exposed aluminum of the interior and tent, but it is considerably less and I can crack the roof vent and a tent window to get some air flow without getting cold. I've considered just heating the tent portion at night by putting up a curtain at the end of the bed, along with insulated tent walls I think I'd use 1/4 the fuel.

I think I'd get an HS2800 for a full sized truck if I wasn't FULLY insulated or I wanted to camp in 10-20°F temps.
 

sideburns

Idaho 2019 Nissan Frontier CC LWB
I have been wondering about how to secure the standard rear door as well, I also have a concern of being locked in as well, any help would be appreciated.
Simple solution would be a sliding bolt latch on one or both sides. Just make sure you get one that can't rattle closed going down the road and lock you out.

If they're the same latches as the barn doors and hatches use they come out from the inside with a #2 Philips real easy, just carry a screwdriver in the back to avoid being locked in.
 

PirateMcGee

Expedition Leader
I appreciate that feedback; I went w the 2800 and it arrived today so we'll see how it goes.
Good call. My 2000 works pretty well given that I've insulated and run a bed rug but the 2800 would be nice just for speed. I've camped below zero and the hs2000 kept me in the 50s inside.
 
KellyM, looking at your first photo, I see what looks like a unique celling trim and lighting setup. If you get a chance can you post a picture of the roof and talk a little about how you built the lighting?
Thanks
Jeff
 

KellyM

Adventurer
KellyM, looking at your first photo, I see what looks like a unique celling trim and lighting setup. If you get a chance can you post a picture of the roof and talk a little about how you built the lighting?
Thanks
Jeff
The ceiling has the ceiling liner from OVRLND. The lighting is just a few 12v puck lights installed in a piece of plywood attached to the ceiling ribs with nutserts and machine screws similar to OVRLND's push bars.
 

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