OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

dirtnsmores

Member
That's a great idea to trim the slide out length, we could probably lose about 4" on ours, still fit our double megamat and give that much more standing room in our 5' truck bed.

Gen 1 Tundra + OVRLND is going to be a GREAT adventure rig.
Yeah I got the idea from someone on the Facebook group. Picking up my camper in two weeks! Cannot wait. My truck is just about ready for it. Will be doing the rear suspension once I get the camper installed and save up a few thousand pennies

Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk
 

dirtnsmores

Member
Picked up my camper before heading to my next duty station.
View attachment 818729

Added an OVS awning to the drivers side.
View attachment 818724

Added a Roadshower and OVS shower awning to the passenger side.
View attachment 818726

Added a positive pressure vent.
View attachment 818728

Did some work on my power distribution panel.
View attachment 818725

Added my shore power plug as well.
View attachment 818727

Looks great. I may end up doing a shore power plug at some point
 

montechie

Active member
Anyone have any tricks to keep the barn door latches from freezing up? At the end of a ski day, its a bummer to have to jimmy them around to get them open
The above dry lube helps as a preventative, and there's also either rubbing alcohol squirted into the lock when frozen or the branded Lock De-Icer stuff. I had to ask last year. Funny, decades spent driving in a winter state, I never had the need for my vehicle doors, just don't get the icy mix in Montana much, but that backend sucks the snow in pretty good.

I think someone else talked about the amount of dust that gets drawn in behind the camper. I saw a camper at a local trailhead that had these 1" or so fins in a line (5-8 of them) stuck to the back edge of each side. I wish now I had taken a picture, they looked designed for the purpose of breaking up the vacuum across the back.
 

mr3dogs

New member
Hmmm a question, If you operate the slide latch from the inside and if someone push down the outside latches, it looks to me you would be locked inside the camper? Jeff
not if you lock them while the latches are open, then they cant be locked. i installed 2 slide latches, one in each corner at the bottom to lock the lift hatch on the back. i did the same for the side hatches for emergency exit purposes at night
 

dirtnsmores

Member
It depends on whether you have rear barn doors or not. Yes, the solid window hatches are not operable from inside with the latches I have. Certainly a limitation.

However, my rear half barn doors can be opened from the inside on my two year old Ovrlnd version while latched if I unlock the inside top bolt that gives the opposite door with the latches something solid to latch against and just push both doors open together.

Not sure what the story is for the standard back window lift-up hatch or on newer versions.

If you’re really concerned, one option on a new build might be to omit the exterior keyed latch from the solid window hatches and just use the interior bolt Jay is now offering as an option/including (not sure which).

On my side hatch I had him put a latch so I can lock it from the inside without the hatch being locked from the outside. I pick it up next week so we'll see what it looks like
 

Phessor

Member
What is everyone using for cable management at the hinge point?

What hardware works for the channels supporting the bed?
 
Last edited:

montechie

Active member
I'm only managing the existing cables (3rd brake light, solar, and fan wires), but relocated them to the other side from where I had OVRLND place them. I've been using sticky cable tie mounts (like these) and they've held up fine now for 6ish months. I copied OVRLND's placement around the hinge.

I think my channels supporting the bed are different than the newer campers, I think there was a switch from 8020 extruded to T-slot, so not much help for you there.
 
Last edited:

tgoff

New member
Added some lights and USB chargers to the ceiling and replaced flip down table with 3/4" HDPE cutting board. Progress photos attached
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6986.jpg
    IMG_6986.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 43
  • IMG_6993.jpg
    IMG_6993.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 35
  • IMG_6996.jpg
    IMG_6996.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 35
  • IMG_7001.jpg
    IMG_7001.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 43
  • IMG_6999.jpg
    IMG_6999.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 46

tgoff

New member
Very nice.
How much slack, if any, are you allowing at the hinge?

I'll take some photos of that once I finish up all the electrical. I have a Bluetti AC60P that I will use for power since it makes it pretty simple with it's built in inverter and solar controller. I had OVRLND install the solar port in the roof and they ran wires down for that to the lower drivers side. I'm just going to zip tie the wire to that.
 

tgoff

New member
Awesome use of the cutting board! Where did you source the HDPE from?

I got the 3/4” black cutting board from
Amazon and it was 18”x30” which I cut on the table saw to 10”x30”. The purple 1/2” boards I got on webstaurantstore.com. 1/2” HDPE is a little to flexible for the flip down table but the 3/4” is pretty solid.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,192
Messages
2,871,281
Members
224,149
Latest member
pnwflygirl
Top