Stay Wild Outdoors
Observer
Does anyone have a SKU for the 52?
Does anyone have a SKU for the 52?
Real world report, I just got back from a weekend outing.
Filled my 26qt on Friday, around 3PM or so, with a 10lb bag of ice. The cooler was not chilled or anything, I just put my stuff from the fridge in it and went to the grocery store for ice. A cold 6 pack of Ale-8-1, 6 aluminum cans that were room temp, some meat, and a cold bottle of milk. It wasn't full but nearly so as I didn't go to much effort to pack them neatly.
I still had ice floating in there this morning at breakfast around 7:30 Sunday. When I got home and unpacked it around noon, there was no ice, but the water was still very cold.
The cooler was in my vehicle the whole time. I tried to keep it shut as much as I could, but it got normal opening and closing several times around meals. I didn't eat lunch so it stayed shut mid-day.
So, one bag of ice for a short weekend, not too bad. I was hoping for better but oh well. I suspect the 2nd bag might stand a better shot given the cooler would be chilled to some extent by then.
Oh, and to add, temps were abut 80ish during the day, low of 50 at night.
Drain melted ice water will help make it last a little longer.
Someone else said leave it in there it keeps your stuff cold...
I appreciate the input, but who am I to believe???
I think if I'm putting ice in, I'll drain. Unless I have access to ice ready to pour in, I'll leave the water in there. Maybe that is the mixture that makes both statements true.
The unmelted ice has to keep the water and items cool instead of just the items. Also it helps to take up all the air space either with items or plastic bags.
I also throw all the ice in than a cardboard on top before putting food in.
The way I see it, it would be a *better* deal if the handles didn't have to get replaced out of the box. Also, the lashing points I was referring to are the ones (that all others I've seen have) to secure the cooler itself (going through the body/over lid). The latches are not just difficult (not *that* difficult, but harder than most), but the real issue is that the rubber latches seem to not be very durable.. if the floor model is already showing noticeable wear marks from people like me opening/closing it at the store, it seems that durability (of the rubber pieces) is sketchy at best. Overall... really.. it is a rotomolded cooler. It should last for a long time. Replacing what seems like not-so-durable latches and having to improvise to secure the cooler during transport are gripes, but not show stoppers if the cooler does in fact keep things cold for 7 days AND the latches are not too expensive to replace. If the latches are expensive though, given that this type of cooler is supposed to last for a very long time, assuming you're not the kind to just use a ratchet tie down strap to keep it closed/secure, could be a show stopper (but for those that are wondering, a set of cheap tie-down straps goes for about $15.00 at most hardware stores).The handles are removable and any standard 1" nylon webbing or lashing straps will work to secure it down. As for the latches being difficult... I struggled at first as well, but after doing it multiple times there is a technique to it and becomes much easier.
Well when I hear it both ways, I have to make up my own mind, and I'd rather work with logic here. I understand what you are saying, but I also have a moderate understanding of physics. Cold water is cold, and it has a lot of mass. Cold air is cold, and has very little mass, and is gone as soon as you open the lid and screw around in there.
Water transfers heat really really well. Air sucks at transferring heat. That is why we have huge radiators on our vehicles to loose heat, yet tiny water passages move it away from the engine.
If I don't have ice on hand to make the situation better, I'm better off keeping my cold mass that can still absorb heat. You pour out the water you pour out the only thing you have left that is below air temperature that isn't food. If you don't have more ice, you are screwed.
If by doing it my way, I loose ice faster but keep my items cold, that is okay. Hot air rises, cold air sinks. Inside a cooler everything on top the ice has the best chance possible of holding off the ice's ability to take it's heat away. If you had a perfect cooler, and put food in it that is not frozen solid, and no ice melts, then that food did not get any colder.
So I agree, ditch the water, but only if you can replace it with more ice. If you don't have any ice, keep what cold water you have, cold water still means cold food. Cold air, is worth about as much as it weighs. And put your ice over or at least around what you want cold, if you want it to be cold sooner rather than later.
73 quart sku - 61282-51337
52 quart sku - 61282-51336
26 quart sku - I don't know it, but I think we can guess.