Panamericruiser - An Overland Journey through the Americas

coydogsf

Adventurer
Great info on the Guatemala border, Christian. We'll need it in a few weeks. And good times hanging out for New Years though I thought I should show people what things really looked like most of the time.

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We liked camping with you except for the fact that your monster truck made ours look like a teeny, tiny child's toy.

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Dave
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
We are trying to decide right now if we should head over to Copan and go around El Salvador, or cut through El Salvador and add another stamp in my passport...if anyone has input, please let me know!
 

Scott Brady

Founder
Copan is awesome. Copan City is a great little town too.

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There is a great hotel right on the river that will let you camp under this huge tree.

Oh, and if you do go to Copan, please go to Carnitas Nia LoLa restaurant and ask for the drink with rum and cranberry juice. I need to know the name of that drink - it is important ;)
 
Great trip report. Thanks. I was wondering what you are doing for vehicle insurance ? I saw a link posted here for getting Mexican auto insurance, but do you get a separate policy for each country ? Who did you use ?
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Great trip report. Thanks. I was wondering what you are doing for vehicle insurance ? I saw a link posted here for getting Mexican auto insurance, but do you get a separate policy for each country ? Who did you use ?

For Mexico we used BajaBound. Extremely helpful.

Only thing to remember is that if you want full coverage in Mexico you have to have a valid current policy in USA/Canada.

For Guatemala we have no insurance whatsoever.
I asked at the border and no one seems to care.
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Subject: Camping in Antigua at the police compound.

We just came back from inquiring about the possibility of camping at the Ranchero. We stopped by and I had a little chat with the "chef".

So here is the scoop.

The Ranchero is located about 2 blocks away from the bus station, not right next to it.

It is indeed possible to camp there for free. You have to ask permission with the officer in charge.

He told me that the rules are:

-no noise
-clean your spot
-no entry after 10pm
-no exit/entry with the camper.

He said if we are respecting the rules we are welcome to camp. He was polite but not overly welcoming/friendly. He asked me a bunch of questions before accepting - almost like an interview.

I am sure this would have changed after a day or two but overall it was not what I was expecting. It could also be different if we were an older couple in a big camper.

The compound is for the actual policia, not for the tourist police.
So the vibe is a bit more serious than I expected. I am also not sure what is the situation for the shower/bathroom, you probably have to share with what they are using themselves.
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
We are trying to decide right now if we should head over to Copan and go around El Salvador, or cut through El Salvador and add another stamp in my passport...if anyone has input, please let me know!

I have not been to Copan myself yet but have heard great things about the place....

I myself do not like driving through Honduras much. The cops in Honduras to me are much worse than even the worst places in Mexico. So I have up to this point always decided the shortest route through Honduras while heading south, that is on the Pan Am Hwy. El Salvador is not worries to drive through, the roads are good, the people are nice, the police are not corrupt and the food is great! Yet, the more direct route along the CA1 means you pass through El Amitillo which is just no fun at all. It is known by many as the worst border in Central America and for good reason! My recent crossing there was fairly painless but it still ended up costing me $200 which is at least $60 more than it should have cost, perhaps even $100 more. I have my dog with me so that extra step in crossing any border always adds an extra chance that I get forced to pay a bribe.

If you do go the direct route and follow the CA1, at El Amitillo I reccomend you do not use any porters. They run scams constantly, act like your buddy but always come up with some crap excuse to get more from you than it should cost. My last crossing we had some beers and a bottle of rum in the truck. The vehicle guy (transpo department) saw this and made a big deal out of it which in turn ended in paying a bribe to the porter who claimed to pay it to the offcial. I also overpaid on the road tax stamp even when I protested and demanded a reciept....I blame my lack of good Spanish and being tired of sitting at the border for 4hrs. In the end I just said f*#ck it, paid the money and got out of there asap. That is the very last time though I am using a porter at the El Amitillo border!
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
For Guatemala we have no insurance whatsoever.
I asked at the border and no one seems to care.

Be very careful at borders when using porters....

Guatemala does not require insurance. In CA, as far as I recall only Belize, Costa Rica and Panama require it.

Yet, last year some friends of mine were robbed by the porters coming into Guatemala. The porters told them they needed insurance and led them away from the official border crossing to get it. Once away from the border the porters and their friends robbed them with weapons of all their cash.
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Honduras - The 12 hours border

So you guys are lucky - you are getting all the latest information on border crossing...

We just arrived in Copan. We decided not to go through El Salvador and instead going through the North of Honduras. So far I think it has been the best decision.

We left Antigua around 4 pm yesterday, just in time to get in Guatemala for the 5pm traffic.

It seems like we are not satisfied enough with driving at night so we also need to add more challenges...such at crossing Guatemala city at rush hour or tempting to cross the Honduras border at night.

We actually made it through Guatemala City quite easily. We took the "Annillo Periferico" direction North and only missed one exit somehow - which sent us directly downtown. But after asking a few bus drivers and local policia, we managed to quickly get back on the road (Martinez is the name of that street for the locals) and went through Guatemala City in less than 1 hour.

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And got to meet the most aspiring Pablo Escobar look alike person ever, driving his nicely restored 1972 Mitsubishi Galant gold. Hopefully he will join the forum soon.

We then headed toward Puerto Las Barrias where at kilometers 135 you take the junction to go to Copan. You can't really miss it, just follow the thousand of trucks that take that road 24/7 to deliver goods between the port and the city.

All in all it took us about 5.30 hours to get to the border - about 30 minutes too late. The border is open 24 hours but the officina for the road permit closes at 9pm on the Guatemalan side.

Since the immigration was still open, we had the option to take a cab to get to Copan to spend the night and leave the truck at the border (which seems totally safe) or just camp there, next to the gate. We choose the second option, thinking that by waking up at 6am the next morning we would get across quickly.

Shaun tied his hamac between the front bull bar (isn't why we have these?) and the nearest phone pole. I slept in the Maggiolina one more time...

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We actually slept pretty well as the border is really quiet - except for the roasters.

By 6:10 we were ready to go but hit our first challenge - the lady needed photocopies of our Guatemalan permits but the only office where to make them was not opened. They did open about an hour later.

By the way, contrary to what it is being said often on the web, don't bother making tons of photocopies of all your documents thinking that you will save money/time at the borders. They always need copies of the receipts/stamps/permisio/etc that you got in the country or the one before - which you don't have back home... So no matter what, you are going to have to go make copies - it is impossible not to.

The nice thing about sleeping at the border the night before is that it gives you plenty of time to meet the officials and other local characters. We actually had dinner at the only local Comeda with the Honduras immigration officer and the guy in charge of the car permit. There are no "helpers" at this border and only a few very non-aggressive money changers.

We were charged 10 Quatzales ($1.2) for an exit fee for Guatemala and $3US (with receipt) for an entry fee in Honduras.

Around 8am we started doing the paperwork for the Honduras permit for both vehicles. We were the only ones at the office and it took us 1.5 hour.

The officer was courteous but was very precise - and slow. He asks for a bunch of paperwork - including a copy of the paperwork showing that we had canceled the Guatemalan license.

Important note - Make sure you keep every single document you get. It took us 1.5 hour and we were well prepared, having 3 copies of all requested documents (what you need is written on the window).

The only little glitch that the officer noticed was that the Guatemalan permit said something about the license plate number not matching the title document for my truck.

The problem is that the Arizona title does not show the license plate number!!!! I have never seen that before and that is giving me a bit of problem every time. This is where speaking some Spanish really helps - when you have to explain the whole thing.

The cost for the Honduras permit was $35 per vehicle. You pay this at the bank across the river, after avoiding the concrete tail of the gate, watching not to fall in the polluted creek, and walking around 4/5 dead car bodies. You get a receipt, and if you are lucky and get the same nice clerk as we got, he will also do all the copies you need - it's all inclusive.

Total cost was therefore about $40 - no bribe, no corruption and all the receipts.

So we are now in Copan, very excited and heading to see the ruins. We will cross the country tomorrow and head out at Los Manos, and most likely stick to our bad habit of driving every night...

:)
 
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Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
While in Antigua, we had the opportunity to meet up and have dinner with James/Angela/Parker from NoLimitX.

They have just announced a serie of new tours for 2011 and it was very exciting to discuss all these new projects.

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RMP&O

Expedition Leader
So you guys are lucky - you are getting all the latest information on border crossing...
We actually made it through Guatemala City quite easily. We took the "Annillo Periferico" direction North and only missed one exit somehow - which sent us directly downtown. But after asking a few bus drivers and local policia, we managed to quickly get back on the road (Martinez is the name of that street for the locals) and went through Guatemala City in less than 1 hour.

My first time through the city (last March) I was super worried as I heard many bad rumors that Guatemala City is the worst city to navigate in CA. It is super easy actually with very well posted signs and nice roads. Many cities from the Mexican border to Panama are much worse....San Jose, Coasta Rica being just one. My recent navigation of Guatemala City proved to be the same, even with pretty heavy traffic.


By the way, contrary to what it is being said often on the web, don't bother making tons of photocopies of all your documents thinking that you will save money/time at the borders. They always need copies of the receipts/stamps/permisio/etc that you got in the country or the one before - which you don't have back home... So no matter what, you are going to have to go make copies - it is impossible not to.

That is true....yet, I save myself tons of time and a few bucks by carrying 40 copies of everything with me. When I am asked for copies of my APHIS-USDA form I have it along with my dogs rabies form and also many other copies of docs on my dog. Same goes for copies of my title, registration, drivers license and passport. It is true I do need to get a copy here and there showing a permit canceled or a stamp in the passport but otherwise I need no copies. So not to say you are incorrect but having copies of everything with you also speeds up the process considerably and shows officials you are experienced plus know what they want.

By the way.....on my trip south this year, I did the entire drive with an expired license that has VOID stamped through it via holes! Only one cop in Guatemala showed even the slightest sign of knowing what was up with the license and he barely huffed at it. No borders gave me problems nor did any other of the many cops that stopped us on the way south. Just goes to show most these people you deal with coming south have pretty limited knowledge of what is good or no good. ;)
 

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