Photo Filters
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Lost Canadian
Expedition Leader
Yes
I would have no issue suggesting the use of one if a person asked specifically, and I felt that persons vision could be aided with one. Otherwise, no. Recommending any equipment almost certainly leads to a debate that goes on ad nauseam.
mauricio_28
Adventurer
I agree; polarizers and ND filters are the only ones one needs nowadays. All other filter effects/changes can be now be achieved in post-processing. Of course, there is no need for a polarizer or ND if the person does not actually need them or know how to use them.
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Sports and Religion
I don't use filters for effects; in fact, I only recently bought a polarizer and ND's. In the days of film I did use a skylight, both to tame the African sky and for "protection."
The latter concept provokes many howls of rage, but the bottom line is that I would rather clean a filter than a lens and my stuff gets dirty.
The linked photos were taken with a Leica through a clear filter. http://www.teddyseguin.com/dotclear/index.php?2008/03/11/17-les-archers-peuls-de-centrafrique
While I understand the concept of wanting to reduce the number of pieces of glass and the possibility of reflections, etc., I doubt that any human being can see any evidence of image degredation caused by a good quality clear filter.
But, as with sports and religion - opinions vary.
I don't use filters for effects; in fact, I only recently bought a polarizer and ND's. In the days of film I did use a skylight, both to tame the African sky and for "protection."
The latter concept provokes many howls of rage, but the bottom line is that I would rather clean a filter than a lens and my stuff gets dirty.
The linked photos were taken with a Leica through a clear filter. http://www.teddyseguin.com/dotclear/index.php?2008/03/11/17-les-archers-peuls-de-centrafrique
While I understand the concept of wanting to reduce the number of pieces of glass and the possibility of reflections, etc., I doubt that any human being can see any evidence of image degredation caused by a good quality clear filter.
But, as with sports and religion - opinions vary.
Photog
Explorer
Polarizer most of the time, unless it is not necessary or causes problems (wide angle sky is a problem with a polarizer).
My polarizer is the only "protection glass" on my lens. Very dusty, blowing sand or salt spray, would be the type of conditions where I would use a skylight or UV filter (if my polarizer were not installed). The conditions that DiploStrat mentioned, are a good exa,ple. Otherwise there is no point in adding another layer of glass.
Split-ND filters can be very useful, in the right situations.
Star filters and SofTar filters can be useful, for special effects. Yes, this can be done in Photoshop, but it is much faster in the field, with a filter. Take a second shot, without the filter, if you want an image that is not modified by that filter.
I own a few other specialty filters, but have not used them in years.
I would like to start working with full-ND filters, to stretch the shutter time, and still have shallow depth-of-field. Using full-ND filters can also allow the removal of moving objects from the image.
My polarizer is the only "protection glass" on my lens. Very dusty, blowing sand or salt spray, would be the type of conditions where I would use a skylight or UV filter (if my polarizer were not installed). The conditions that DiploStrat mentioned, are a good exa,ple. Otherwise there is no point in adding another layer of glass.
Split-ND filters can be very useful, in the right situations.
Star filters and SofTar filters can be useful, for special effects. Yes, this can be done in Photoshop, but it is much faster in the field, with a filter. Take a second shot, without the filter, if you want an image that is not modified by that filter.
I own a few other specialty filters, but have not used them in years.
I would like to start working with full-ND filters, to stretch the shutter time, and still have shallow depth-of-field. Using full-ND filters can also allow the removal of moving objects from the image.
articulate
Expedition Leader
Not really directed at the original poster: what about controlling white balance more?
For instance, let's say you're shooting in late afternoon sun. If you set the WB for shady conditions, you'll get a warmed effect; a yellowish tobacco thing going on.
To go along with this, using a filter on a digital camera is moot unless you are controlling your white balance. Right? Or am I smoking crack?
For instance, let's say you're shooting in late afternoon sun. If you set the WB for shady conditions, you'll get a warmed effect; a yellowish tobacco thing going on.
To go along with this, using a filter on a digital camera is moot unless you are controlling your white balance. Right? Or am I smoking crack?
Scott Brady
Founder
Yes and Yes
However, I will qualify my opinion with the fact that I am a traditionally trained photographer i.e. 35mm and a darkroom. I often use a polarizer, especially when you must get that one shot in mid-day. It makes a huge difference IMO. I also use an graduated ND filter in several stops and gradients. I am still figuring out the HDR things and actually used photoshop for the first time ever a few months ago to stitch a panorama.
I do very little post-processing, with all of it done with the limited tools in Aperture.
Here is a mid-day shot with a polarizer. This one is too big to attach
http://www.expeditionswest.com/adventures/2009/Southern_Utah/Discovery_Utah (3).jpg
and another
.jpg)
Look at those shadows!
Photog
Explorer
White balance can act like a color filter. For landscapes, you don't normally want a colored filter, unless trying to cut some of the blue-sky effect. The "open shade" setting will do that, and act like an 81A filter on daylight film.
For the most part, colored filters are pointless for digital. If someone knows of a special situation for a colored filter, I am all ears.
For special color adjustments, the computer allows very fine tuning of the final image. THis adjustment can be applied to batches of images, if necesary.
The effects of ND (Neutral Density) and split-ND filters, can be done in the computer, but they don't look the same, and take longer. Using a full ND (not split), you can force the shutter to stay open longer, to add motion to the image, even at f2.8. Some things can't be done in the computer, or with white balance.
For the most part, colored filters are pointless for digital. If someone knows of a special situation for a colored filter, I am all ears.
For special color adjustments, the computer allows very fine tuning of the final image. THis adjustment can be applied to batches of images, if necesary.
The effects of ND (Neutral Density) and split-ND filters, can be done in the computer, but they don't look the same, and take longer. Using a full ND (not split), you can force the shutter to stay open longer, to add motion to the image, even at f2.8.
Some things can't be done in the computer, or with white balance.
Michael Slade
Untitled
For the most part, colored filters are pointless for digital. If someone knows of a special situation for a colored filter, I am all ears.
The Hoya R72 Filter (Wratten 89b, B+W 092 equivalent) is one you'll need if you plan to shoot infrared with your IR capable (or modified) digital camera.
articulate
Expedition Leader
A while ago Bill Green told me about the "blue-n-gold" filter, claiming the wonders it does for mid-day shooting.
Any thoughts on this one?
http://www.singh-ray.com/goldnblue.html
Cokin version:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/b-y_polarizer.shtml
Any thoughts on this one?
http://www.singh-ray.com/goldnblue.html
Cokin version:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/b-y_polarizer.shtml
Lost Canadian
Expedition Leader
Michael Slade
Untitled
Here's a set for sale in Utah.
Formatt 4x5.65" Graduated Neutral Density (ND) 1.2 HD Glass Filter (Hard Edge) (Horizontal Orientation)
No affiliation...yadda yadda yadda...
Formatt 4x5.65" Graduated Neutral Density (ND) 1.2 HD Glass Filter (Hard Edge) (Horizontal Orientation)
No affiliation...yadda yadda yadda...
matt s
Explorer
Yes all the time.
Polarizer of course, but ND and for me I use a grad filter all the time. Controlling the light entering the camera in the first place is for me a superior result to anything done in post. Also I like to be out shooting, not combining exposures in photoshop for hours on end.
Polarizer of course, but ND and for me I use a grad filter all the time. Controlling the light entering the camera in the first place is for me a superior result to anything done in post. Also I like to be out shooting, not combining exposures in photoshop for hours on end.