Please place these modifications in chronological order

[gearbox]

Here's the truck: 2006 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Access Cab TRD-OR manual tranny.

Here's what has been done to it:

• Rear differential breather extension
• Gray Wire mod
• Independent fog lights mod
• Relocated trailer harness
• Slightly broken plate light, bent left rear quarter panel, bent rear bumper

Here's the equipment in the truck:

• 48" Hi Lift, Lift Mate, OR-Kit, 20' choker chain, two 12'x2" rigging straps
• Warn tow hitch receiver shackle
• General usage hand tools
• Shovel and hatchet
• Chinese air compressor

Here's what I want done:

• Sliders. Most likely bolt-on
• OME suspension lift
• Larger tires, either aggressive AT or DD-usable MT
• Cab-high top w/safari-style rack
• Steel front bumper w/recovery points, maybe w/winch
• Steel rear bumper w/recovery points
• ARB front air locker
• Spare tire relocation
• Aux fuel tank
• Front and rear lighting
• Jerry cans and holders
• Sleeping platform/bed storage
• Dual batteries
• Power inverter/distributer
• Holder for my Garmin GPSMap 76CSx
• Waterproofed fuse box/electrical, intake waterproofing/semi-snorkel
• CB/SW radio (low on the list)
• Remove sway bar
• Little things like interior lighting, fire extinguisher tie-down, etc..

As you can see, that is a lot of mods to be done and I don't plan on completing it this decade. Even getting the important half done will take $5000 which I don't have [to spare].

This truck is a daily driver, and will occassionally be taken on increasingly more difficult terrain. I would like to be capable and independent. I would do as much work as possible myself but will have to have a lot of things installed professionally (OME install, armor, etc..)

What should I do in what order and am I missing anything?

 

[Nullifier]

Ok my order would be

CB/SW radio
gps mount
Sliders
front bumper (You can throw a cheap spacer in the front coils to compensate for wieght)
rear bumper
lift
larger tires
If you go more remote and need fuel sceptor cans and mounts in bed.

I've done most of Tellico on 31" tires so keep in mind a stock tacoma is a capable truck in the right hands. Just getting good armor, communications, mapping and increasing your fuel range can opena nother world to you. If you already have a front locker there is no need for a front one for a long while. and if you do add one get a winch first because winches get you out of trouble and lockers get you into trouble!

 

[DaveInDenver]

CB/SW radio
gps mount
Sliders
front bumper
rear bumper
lift
larger tires
fuel cans

This is the way I'd do it, with the possible exception of front bumper, rear bumper and then sliders. But that is because I do proportionally more highway and dirt roads than hard core trails and think that FR and RR recovery points are mandatory. I also don't have a GPS, so the GPS mount is moot. I would put radios as #1, no doubt about that. Fire extinguisher and cargo tie downs, also very important.

 

[Dirty Harry]

• Sliders. Most likely bolt-on

• Holder for my Garmin GPSMap 76CSx
• Waterproofed fuse box/electrical, intake waterproofing/semi-snorkel
• CB/SW radio (low on the list)

• Dual batteries
• Power inverter/distributer
• Little things like interior lighting, fire extinguisher tie-down, etc..

• OME suspension lift
• Remove sway bar
• Larger tires, either aggressive AT or DD-usable MT

• Cab-high top w/safari-style rack
• Sleeping platform/bed storage
• Jerry cans and holders

• Steel front bumper w/recovery points, maybe w/winch
• Steel rear bumper w/recovery points
• Front and rear lighting

• Spare tire relocation
• Aux fuel tank

• ARB front air locker

I see these falling into logical groups, as shown above. No need to get a sleeping platform without a shell, or relocate the tire before you get the spare fuel tank. I would recommend the sliders first because they can save you from expensive damage. Bumper are much easier to replace than rocker panels. After that I would make the truck more comfortable for exploration and camping before worrying too much about the capabilities. There are plenty of beautiful roads and trails in the Sierra Nevadas that your truck is capable of traversing as is. Don't let lack of the complete list keep you off the trail (I am often guilty of this).

 

[DaveInDenver]

I would recommend the sliders first because they can save you from expensive damage. Bumper are much easier to replace than rocker panels.

Just a commentary. I reordered them because I must approach mods to my truck different than other people. I picture bumpers as things to protect critical systems in the truck (radiator, steering, whatever) and more importantly, my wife and me. I suppose that's the mentality of driving an old truck, the mods are done strictly for practicality and not to protect the pristine paint of a door or rocker. LOL!

 

[Schattenjager]

Welcome to the world of compromise. The first mod is in your head - read, go with experienced folks and LEARN !!! Bill Burk at www.bb4wa.com is a great instructor and has some videos and books. If you can get him on the phone, he is also one of the nicest people you can visit with.

If the trail use is light, then the under body protection is a priority. That may sound odd, but you only really NEED the bumpers in more extreme cases and sliders and oil pan protection etc. can save your bacon during a mild stream crossing etc. If you are going wheeling where you NEED a bumper and it’s recovery points, you will most likely need the underbelly looked after too. Armor is heavy, so as you add that you will need to look into a suspension. Without these things, you probably wont make it far enough to need uber recovery gear – that is unless you are very brave, or very foolish. They tend to be the same, you know…
:victory:

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

for what its worth, the old man emu install on these it not unbelievably difficult in my opinion. You can do it in a day or weekend in your driveway with a friend who knows what they are doing or has done it before..

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Just a commentary. I reordered them because I must approach mods to my truck different than other people. I picture bumpers as things to protect critical systems in the truck (radiator, steering, whatever) and more importantly, my wife and me. I suppose that's the mentality of driving an old truck, the mods are done strictly for practicality and not to protect the pristine paint of a door or rocker. LOL!

I agree with Harry. The first step should be rocker panel protection. It's not to protect the "Pristine Paint" as much as to protect the very vulnerable rocker panel. If you cant open your doors...It doesnt matter what bumpers you have on. The lower a rig rides, the bigger a priority rocker protection should be.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I agree with Harry. The first step should be rocker panel protection. It's not to protect the "Pristine Paint" as much as to protect the very vulnerable rocker panel. If you cant open your doors...It doesnt matter what bumpers you have on. The lower a rig rides, the bigger a priority rocker protection should be.

I've set my truck on a few rocks and my doors still close right. But now that I think about it, I did have to climb out of the window that one time. Hmmmm. OK, OK, I guess I do have it backwards. I still say the first thing all 4WD vehicles need are proper front and rear recovery points, which are often some sort of bumper in the back. Front wise, I've said it before and will repeat it, after seeing what a full speed impact with a large hoofed animal does to a stock Taco, I'm very glad I have a bull bar.

 

[devinsixtyseven]

Yeah, I saw about what Harry and the rest of the guys saw...you've got a few groups of things to do at a time.

Make a plan with your end goals in mind...ie if you want to eventually run larger tires but don't have the $$ right now for proper fitment, worry about other things and play with the truck you have.

Sort out the safety items (location, communication, personal/equipment safety) first. Front lockers are useless if you're lost, injured, and can't call anyone :smilies27. Do you have what you need to sit down for a few days while help arrives, or hike out to find help?

Then...what will get you further down the trail vs comfort items that make time in camp easier? What will get you and the rig home in one piece?

Next, redundancy and extreme long-term reliability.

Finally, extreme capability (lockers, long travel, huge tires, etc).

FWIW I picked up an inexpensive inverter at Radio Shack for about 30 bucks. So far we've used it to recharge things, very handy.

The stock Toyota stuff is fairly waterproof in stock form. Unless you're really going swimming (like over the hood), bump that low on the list.

Hope that helps.

-Sean

 

[gearbox]

Since this "build" will be slower than a Marlin crawlbox, I'll be doing sliders first.

I am leaning towards the Wab-Fab DIY semi-welded sliders with kickout.



It won't be easy since I don't have a means of welding myself. I'm taking a welding class this fall, but I don't think they'll let me wheel my truck in to tack to the bolt-on plates. Guess I'll have to find a weld shop.
I was initially going to get BentUp sliders, but AJ's wife wouldn't call me back. Plus, they wanted $625+ for perfect sliders (2" DOM, kickout, minimal frame drilling).

DOM vs HREW, only a $50 difference. I think I'll go HREW, what do you all think?


The next mod after this will most likely be tires, since I have 24k on the stock BFG Ragged Trails. I think I'll go with 285/75/16 unless I find more reviews saying I'll need to cut more than just plastic.

 

[Dirty Harry]

Call up Inchworm Gear. They are in Shingle Springs and they can sell you with a set of sliders or weld on the set you purchase yourself. Another local option is Stubbs Welding in Susanville.

As for the tires, I don't have a definite answer but I don't think that they will fit. I have 285/75R16 MT/Rs with an OME medium suspension lift and 1" body lift on my '98 4Runner and I STILL rub the trimmed inner fenders and full stuff when turning.

 

[gearbox]

I emailed Inchworm and they said it would cost about $160 (assuming a 2-hour job) just for a weld job. A bolt-on install would be $300+ to drill the frame; bolt on the mounting plates; cut the legs; weld it all together.

That's $550+ just to get bolt-ons with a kickout.

It's ~$55 for Wab Fab to ship, $195-$245 for the sliders + $labor.

Weld-on would be cheaper, but I don't like the idea of messing with the frame that much. I really don't even want to drill more than 2 holes per mounting plate, but it's 3 to 5 holes X 4 Mounting plates X 2 sides.

I wish I had my own garage. Then I would be able to take my time fitting plates to the existing holes.

Does anyone think that's the way to go? Get some hole-free L-shaped brackets and drill it myself?

Sheesh, I can't even remember why I think removeable sliders are better, but with so few people making turn-key bolt-ons I'm almost dead set to do it myself even without the skills and equipment!

 

[p1michaud]

IMO - Bolt on is the way to go for sliders

Sheesh, I can't even remember why I think removeable sliders are better, but with so few people making turn-key bolt-ons I'm almost dead set to do it myself even without the skills and equipment!

Having made the mistake of weld on sliders I would strongly recommend a bolt on set. I say mistake because I had to remove them and it took me 8 hrs of patience, grinding and cutting to get them off without damaging the frame. After that I took the time to make them bolt on. I've since removed them once with minimal effort. IMO the only way to go with sliders is bolt on.
If it takes you 6 months longer to save the money to buy them, it's worth the wait. I'm sure you know but Demello Off-Road makes bolt on sliders for the
new style Tacoma.

Good luck,
P

 

[Dirty Harry]

Having made the mistake of weld on sliders I would strongly recommend a bolt on set.

Why have you needed to remove them? Just curious, I have weld on sliders on two of my Toyotas and bolt on sliders on the third and have never needed to remove any of them.