POD: Custom camper - design stage

eugene

Explorer
Most truck manufacturers take into account the weight of the gas tank and offset some other weight to the other side so its already balanced.
 

pods8

Explorer
PODS

Have you done any research about Polystyrene foam board in relation to off gassing? I searched around the internet, but I didn't find much. I am wondering if there are any poisonous toxins that could be off gassed by the Polystyrene. I wouldn't want to sleep in a camper full of harmful gas fumes.

It's just a thought. I plan on insulating my FWC with Polystyrene foam board and am interested in what you think about off gassing.

Thanks
Tyler

To be honest it never really crossed my mind and I haven't looked it up. Considering its used in home building I can't imagine it would be accepted if it was releasing poisonous gas. If you're not finding much information I'd again think its not likely really an issue. But do your own homework if you are still concerned. In my case it'll be pretty much all encapsulated though anyways.

Most truck manufacturers take into account the weight of the gas tank and offset some other weight to the other side so its already balanced.

Exhaust is on the other side but unless the transfer case or something is more towards the passenger side I can't think of much else that isn't symmetrical (unless the whole drive train isn't quite on the center line?).

Either way the kitchen cabinets will also be holding a variety of goods and supplies which will also tally up the weight on the driver side so even with the gas tank out of the picture its better in my mind to have some of the heavier items I have on the passenger side. The weight balance isn't that offset as it is, but its a definite improvement over just stuffing it all in the driver side cabinets.
 

bob91yj

Resident **************
I replaced my stock 26 gallon plastic fuel tank with a steel 45 gallon tank (Transfer Flow). I was sure the truck would lean to the driver side, especially with a full tank, no noticable difference that I can tell. All of the aplliances in my camper are on the driver side. To top it all off, not thinking, I had a spare tire carrier built that holds a 315/70/16 mostly on the driver side. Even with all of that, I don't notice it when driving.

I do run air bags, put a few extra pounds in the driver side bag just to make myself feel better about the situation.
 

pods8

Explorer
I replaced my stock 26 gallon plastic fuel tank with a steel 45 gallon tank (Transfer Flow). I was sure the truck would lean to the driver side, especially with a full tank, no noticable difference that I can tell. All of the aplliances in my camper are on the driver side. To top it all off, not thinking, I had a spare tire carrier built that holds a 315/70/16 mostly on the driver side. Even with all of that, I don't notice it when driving.

I do run air bags, put a few extra pounds in the driver side bag just to make myself feel better about the situation.

I'm running airbags as well, I notice on my FWC it takes a few extra PSI to level out things. Since I'm working from scratch I'm just trying to balance things where it makes sense.

:coffeedrink:
 

eugene

Explorer
Exhaust is on the other side but unless the transfer case or something is more towards the passenger side I can't think of much else that isn't symmetrical (unless the whole drive train isn't quite on the center line?).

Exactly, its somehting like the engine/transmission are 1/4" right of center, just enough to even it out. I would try for empty tanks and cabinets to be evened out then when you fill them its its off a little one way or the other it won't be that much and will even out with use.
 

pods8

Explorer
Exterior lighting:

Lets here some thoughts on exterior lights. I'm thinking a basic side porch light by the door is in scope.

My current hawk has rear floods, I don't ever really sure them. I'm thinking about not bothering with something like that mounted on the camper (I'll probably add some rear floods on the flatbed for backing up in the woods, etc. but I don't necessarily think they need to be up higher on the camper).

I see some rigs doing front floods on the camper overhand. I'm thinking normal bumper/front of the truck mounted lighting suits me just fine).

So right now I'm really only thinking about a porch light (or two, maybe one with a yellow/amber lens and the other brighter white). Any thoughts for consideration on this? I'll need to embed this wiring early on.
 

pods8

Explorer
Just an update, this project is going LIVE! :wings: I'll be ordering a bulk of epoxy this week (not sure what my total need will be since I'm still in the air on ply schedule but this will get me a ways along). Also I'll be making a run to the construction supply warehouse for the foamular 600. I'm interested to see how that stuff is verse the 250 and hopefully it will help me answer a few layup questions. I'm also trying out some other fabric as well which should wet out and work out bubbles very quickly, which will be important in the large panels I'm doing. Once I get that figured out I'll make my fabric order but in the meantime I've got cores to construct.

I still have numerous questions in my head but none of them really affect the floor pack core so I'll go ahead and start off by building that and trying to answer the other questions as I go.

I plan to start a new thread for the build so its a bit more concise. I'll probably still utilize this one as I hash out some of the bigger up in the air items. Ideally that will avoid confusion in the build thread for anyone reading it later on about what was actually built into the design.
 

pods8

Explorer
Windows, windows, everywhere? Thinking myself in circles here on windows folks and wouldn't mind some useful input. In my general thinking on one hand I feel like I want too many windows (for light/visibility) even if they are picture windows. However in reality I usually have most the curtains drawn up on my current camper for privacy. I don't want to waste the time/effort/money in putting in window locations that I'll never bother to use, however this is the best time to install a window rather than after the fact...

Right now I'm leaning towards a single stage pop-up with folding hardwalls on the cab over. I'm definitely planning to have a window on each side of the cab over, ideally slider windows for ventilation. I'll also have an opening cab through window.

Another consideration is how many of them really need to be opening windows? Initial impulse is for maximum ventilation but in reality I'm thinking between the roof vents (probably 2), cabover windows, cab through window, and perhaps one of the rear windows would be plenty (ie make the side windows pictures if they are there at all?).

Check out the picture below and lets comment on windows.

Windows of primary concern:
4) In conjunction with window 5 this would allow me to see out the back of the camper while driving, I'd need either a large window or a narrow one mounted low. Rather have this upper one opening or the lower one (don't really need both)?

5) I'd need a window here to see through the camper while driving as mentioned. The visibility zone is actually below the table mostly (which would be stowed while driving) so the main area I'd need window is in the 20"-30" above the camper floor range. Either a big picture window here or a slider I think. Not sure if the ventilation blowing half under the table is a negative. I suppose thinking about it more a big picture window here and a slider window above might be nice?

Secondary thought windows:
1) Might be nice but no major motivation, picture or slider would seem fine.

3&7) There will likely only be about 7" of visible window space with the seat backs up if there were windows here. However these windows would make it easy to have curtains fixed in place as opposed to the ones above. I feel like sliders would be bad here (not usable while in dinette and safety concerns in bed mode). A narrow picture window in the upper portion 12" above the bed height might be decent and that would maximize how much light comes through when the seat backs are up. These windows would be shielded while driving.

2&6) I'd either do 2&6 or 3&7 (or none), not both. These windows have more exposed space for light/ventilation options. However curtain options are reduced, however the windows are higher up so less privacy concerns anyways. Sliders offer more ventilation if needed but I don't know if I'd use them.

Thumbs up or down on side windows by the dinette?

windows2.jpg
 

pods8

Explorer
Design front frustration (not related to the actual build that I've started now). Still getting non-committal answers from the hydraulic system supplier I was wanting to use. Now I'm hearing when parts arrive in 70days I "probably" could get a unit. I can't even get a firm quote and place order for future delivery to ensure I get a unit. Far to much uncertainty considering I've started building.

I had held this above linear actuators in my head even though it would cost a bit more because its always synchronized and should be 1 button up/down without having to watch for rise rate inconsistencies. But for now I guess I'll shift my mindset over to linear actuators.
 

Billhilly

Adventurer
Crazy way to try and run a business! So they advertise a product but then can't deliver?? A little frustrating to say the least.
As long as the space was there, and a (potentially) adjustable lower mounting point was sorted, would it be possible to continue on with the build and see what becomes available in two to three months?
Oh, and great to see you have been able to go ahead and build this! Look forward watching this take shape as time allows.
 

pods8

Explorer
They're catering to OEMs and not sure if they want to sell to the public.

What I'm going to do is just add in the mounting aspects for the linear actuators and roll forward. The top mounting point in terms of contact area should basically be the same for either. I'll have hard point blocking in the corner cores already to the cylinders are covered either way. I just need to account for the lower linear actuator mounting point possibility now.
 

Home Skillet

Observer
Pods8,

Sorry to hear about the hydro lifts. That would have been cadillac for sure. Hopefully the actuators will work out for you.
I will have mine in 7-10 days and be installing them, so I can ginnea pig for you.
I am going with: Progressive automations

Home Skillet
 

pods8

Explorer
Pods8,

Sorry to hear about the hydro lifts. That would have been cadillac for sure. Hopefully the actuators will work out for you.
I will have mine in 7-10 days and be installing them, so I can ginnea pig for you.
I am going with: Progressive automations

Home Skillet

Some of the folks on here are using a similar one by Firgelli http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=93&products_id=58, however they do actuate at different speeds for the weight (as you already know). I'm concerned about the speed difference for the front set which will have the weight of the cab over roof on them as well. They make a speed control http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=99&products_id=21 but its $40 per actuator to be able to tune them all in, might only need them for one half though, I dunno. Also I don't know how the speed controller would factor in on the retraction (ie if you've slowed one set with less weight on them down to balance the lift you wouldn't want them running slower on the way down). I haven't called the manufacturer with questions at this point.
 

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