POD: Homebuilt foam core fiberglass skin pop-up camper build thread

[davesteve]

How about something like this product for a "textured coating"?
http://precisionboard.com/products/texture-coating/
Watch the video they have.
It looks like there might be more texture options than the monstaliner.

 

[pods8]

How about something like this product for a "textured coating"?
http://precisionboard.com/products/texture-coating/
Watch the video they have.
It looks like there might be more texture options than the monstaliner.

Not looking to put something down that I then have to over coat still. Mainly was discussing using thicker paints (or spraying polyurea) type finishes that wouldn't be ultra smooth like you would typically see when using a couple mil thick glossy urethane.

 

[davesteve]

Not looking to put something down that I then have to over coat still. Mainly was discussing using thicker paints (or spraying polyurea) type finishes that wouldn't be ultra smooth like you would typically see when using a couple mil thick glossy urethane.

I'm working on a similar truck camper project, where I want a textured finish and I like this one, because, there is little or no surface prep needed, no priming and NO SANDING. Also, once you have your texture done, you slap on a finish coat in no time because the texture will hide everything. Would probably take only an hour or two to finish coat a truck camper, as opposed to the weeks it would take to do the "glossy smooth coating" the standard way.

But...I am still looking...lots of options out there.

 

[pods8]

I'm working on a similar truck camper project, where I want a textured finish and I like this one, because, there is little or no surface prep needed, no priming and NO SANDING. Also, once you have your texture done, you slap on a finish coat in no time because the texture will hide everything. Would probably take only an hour or two to finish coat a truck camper, as opposed to the weeks it would take to do the "glossy smooth coating" the standard way.

But...I am still looking...lots of options out there.

Right the finishing for glossy smooth would be a bear and not really add anything other than aesthetics. My current thought on the monstaliner I'll to some of the rough fair work and I do still plan on using a 2part epoxy primer to make damn sure everything is sealed and also bonds well but after that I'll be able to topcoat quickly with something that has a decent film build. That film build should help visually and also in terms of wear/tear. That's my thought anyway.

 

[turbothrush]

Right the finishing for glossy smooth would be a bear and not really add anything other than aesthetics. .

I have to agree. As someone who is going for the smooth look on my build , I didn't put enough thought into just how many square feet a person needs to get smooth. At the very least I should have put the monstaliner on the camper base ( its a slide-in ) and saved some time . Oh well at least I now have a new Mirka dustless sander

Awesome build by the way.

 

[stomperxj]

Just FYI - I know it has been mentioned in this thread. I called and priced out Precision Board today at a local company here in the Boise area...

http://precisionboard.com/products/high-density-urethane-pblt/

1" 15lb 4x8 sheet - $187.65 per sheet
1.5" 15lb 4x8 sheet - $256.50 per sheet

Holy crap. Looks like blue/pink rigid is the way to go...

/highjack

 

[pods8]

For those prices I'd want to have skins on the panels.


FYI: Finished glassing the roof joints over the weekend. Need to add in the top of the door frame now that I went away from a full height door before I put the top back on. From there I'll make the door and work on actuator mounts. Based on timing I may switch to fairing out the camper body/top and painting prior to doing the flip up walls. I've got family visiting late April / May and it wouldn't hurt having extra hands for painting. We'll see how it goes.

 

[Heifer Boy]

1" 15lb 4x8 sheet - $187.65 per sheet
1.5" 15lb 4x8 sheet - $256.50 per sheet

That's what we pay for 12mm and 18mm Marine plywood down here so it doesn't look too bad to me...

 

[shachagra]

Great thread

Just saw this and I am using a similar method to build a van pop-top. I think it is a great way to go.

I just wanted to comment on finish- I like the look of un-faired glass with a boat poly paint. It wouldn't work on a large surface, but for a camper it would be very utilitarian looking, bad-***. I used 4 inch thick fiberglass tape to do the edges and the look is good without the expense of a vacuum bagging system.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/82813-quot-Jackur-quot-2003-Ford-E350-Diesel-4X4-Build

I'm looking forward to keeping up with this build.

Best of luck.

 

[pods8]

Yup I've seen both your build threads, good stuff! Pretty sure I'm going with the monstaliner product at this stage, it'll hopefully be a high build/wear layer. Little more costly due to the higher build but that'll limit the finish work as noted. In general I really wanted to go 2part as the cure times are predictable and they wear harder typically. Also less concerns about lifting when recoated at a later date since they're more solvent resistant.



Status: I roughed in the top of the door frame and glued it in. I need to do some filling/shaping work on it and then I can glass it. I'll double check the fit up the top and probably rough in the actuators to double check things are fitting right.

Sold off my FWC so that frees up my truck to go get supplied and also test fit the camper soon. Even unfinished I think it'll be quite gratifying to see it perched on my truck. I'm looking forward to that!

Still working on gathering up components to toss in the parts pile. I just picked up some large bulk rolls of 14ga SXL red/black. I got a good price but had to buy ALOT. If anyone wants some smaller 100' lengths let me know as I have PLENTY. Stuff sells about $22 + shipping at delcity. I was thinking $18 shipped for a 100' coil if anyone was interested.

 

[riveroceanandmountain]

Pods

A couple questions

Are you using all 14 gauge wire? Would not 16 or 18 gauge work fine for most loads?.. I was thinking 12 or 10 for the fridge...I need to learn more about wire selection.......guess I need to find a gauge calculator

What actuators are you planning to use?
If you already discussed this I apologize....

 

[pods8]

No not 14ga all around but in general I decided to mainly use that as a minimum in most places. Wire sizing is based on the load AND the distance on these low voltage systems due to voltage drop. Take roof fans for instance, you can be looking at a 20' run. Fanstastic fans pull 3amps on high, I bought the 10speed maxxair units which have a couple speeds with even higher airflow (and thus amp draw) and pull 4.2amps on max. With 18ga for a single fantastic fan you'll have 6.4% voltage drop over 20' or 8.9% for the maxxair, 16ga is 4% and 5.6% respectively. 14ga is 2.5% and 3.5% respectively. I've got two fans too, no way would I be trying to run both of those on anything under 14ga. Originially I was going to have my two fans on one circuit and lights on another but I'm thinking of breaking things up into front/back now so one circuit will cover the front fan/light and one will cover the rear fan/light. I'm not 100% settled on that yet. Anyways its just jotting down draws and distances and punching numbers. 14ga seemed useful in a lot of areas for me and is also more than needed in others but for a one off camper the little savings to go smaller just really doesn't seem worthwhile. I might use a little 16 or 18 for the porch light which will be on a switch so it'll be an extra wire run in the roof conduit but it just depends how tight things are in there (14 might fit fine). 14ga I saw as a useful size in the camper and for general accessory wiring on vehicles as well.

Actually the fridge will probably just be 14ga, its located very close to the distribution so drop will be minimal. I'll be using 10ga on the solar (a relatively long run and I want upgrade potential for later, rather just wire once you know ) and actuators (the far ones are a longer run and at full load they can pull close to 10amps, lower voltage at the end the slower they'll go).

The other thing to keep in mind as you have losses to voltage drop it means you end up pulling more amps from your batteries to develop the same wattage at the end of the wire.

For actuators I'm using 400# 24" stroke firgelli actuators. http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=78&products_id=58 They have stronger actuators but they cost more and since its just a gear reduction they actuate slower. So 400# seemed a good compromise of speed/cost/and a combined 1600# of lift.

 

[pods8]

Door frame in and ready for glassing.

 

[Overland Hadley]

Is the door you are using a standard off the shelf model, or did you custom make one?

 

[pods8]

I just have a door opening so far... . Due to some custom needs I will need to build a door. Buying one would be nice about now but I don't think the manufacturers would be interested in doing what I need or would likely charge quite a bit.