Point Five Ambo Build

patoz

patoz

Expedition Leader
Be careful when you start cleaning. Sometime needles fall into cracks and under things which can give you a nasty stick.

One thing about ambulances vs. campers or RVs, they are designed and built to be easily cleaned from top to bottom. Even the flooring is designed as a 'tub' so it can be hosed out if necessary.
 
rlrenz

rlrenz

Explorer
When you get a good, close look at the cabinetry, you'll see that there isn't any particle board, just 3/4" plywood. You won't be able to trim much weight from the structure.
 
D

DzlToy

Explorer
Ditch the 3/4 inch plywood and install composite cabinets, stronger and lighter. (if you are concerned about weight)
 
patoz

patoz

Expedition Leader
Well, I think I've solved the problem of where to put the toilet in the back of ambo/campers and vans...

Car Seat For Seniors.jpg

Who needs Toyota Sienna seats when you can have one of these!
 
T

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Hey Pat, I might have asked you this before but old memory and all. Do you still have your old analog thermostat for the box? And if so do you intend to use it? Mine works fine but the adjustment knob broke so now I have to use a multi-tool to adjust it. Or maybe somebody you know "in the biz" might have one laying around?
 
patoz

patoz

Expedition Leader
Tom, I think we did discuss this once before, but I'm not positive.

This is all that's left of mine but you're welcome to it, if it will help you in any way. I'm out there tracing wiring right now, so I can pull it and get it mailed off tomorrow or the next day.

IMAG0544.jpg

Have you decided to keep your ambulance? If so, I'm about ready to jerk those two control panels, so I may just make up a care package and send it to you. Basically, this stuff is in the way and it's not helping me trace anything since they are all integrated circuits. I need to get it all scaled back to toggle switch level, so I can install my Blue Sea Panel.
 
T

tgreening

Expedition Leader
patoz said:
Tom, I think we did discuss this once before, but I'm not positive.

This is all that's left of mine but you're welcome to it, if it will help you in any way. I'm out there tracing wiring right now, so I can pull it and get it mailed off tomorrow or the next day.

View attachment 345416

Have you decided to keep your ambulance? If so, I'm about ready to jerk those two control panels, so I may just make up a care package and send it to you. Basically, this stuff is in the way and it's not helping me trace anything since they are all integrated circuits. I need to get it all scaled back to toggle switch level, so I can install my Blue Sea Panel.
Click to expand...


Haha! That's pretty much what mine looks like, though I think I still have the cover, just no knob.

If you're looking to unload those panels my way, feel free. Long term goal is to replace that integrated mess with regular wired in switches, but I'm going to need help and it most likely won't happen real soon, so any spare parts for what I have is more than welcome. That old clock is way cool too. Reminds me of the ones in my old Jeeps.


Just like most vehicles sooner or later this one will probably go, but no time real soon I think. Still having fun with it! I like the compactness of the standard E-series but I sure dig all the standard storage, inside and outside, on one of these.

Besides, it isn't ready to sell anyway. I need to add on some more over-landy stuff and slap on a handful of Expeditiony type stickers. That way I can triple the asking price. :D
 
patoz

patoz

Expedition Leader
Ha, that clock is the only thing that's working right now!

After what I just found out, you might want to think twice about swapping out those switches. It's not going to be a simple as you think. I took some more pictures and will have them up later on this evening. The thermometer on my window sill says it's 103° in the sun, which means it's actually about 95° so I'm about to wrap it up and get back in the A/C.

Yeah, stickers will make it official and therefore worth a lot more money! :D
 
B

bobrenz

Observer
The thermostat was probably made by Hoseline. It's a dual thermostat that handles both heating and cooling. A new 'stat can be purchased from www.selecttech.com. I think they also sell replacement knobs.
 
T

tgreening

Expedition Leader
patoz said:
Ha, that clock is the only thing that's working right now!

After what I just found out, you might want to think twice about swapping out those switches. It's not going to be a simple as you think. I took some more pictures and will have them up later on this evening. The thermometer on my window sill says it's 103° in the sun, which means it's actually about 95° so I'm about to wrap it up and get back in the A/C.

Yeah, stickers will make it official and therefore worth a lot more money! :D
Click to expand...



Ok then, correct me where I'm going wrong, and this is all just assumption at this point....

That big circuit board thingy that all the main switches are plugged into has one big main connector, and from memory one or two smaller ones. From what I gathered all the little wires on that connector run back to a whole slew of relays back in the box and the switches up in the cab do nothing but provide a ground path for the relays (via those little wires), which close and provide a power path to whatever they're supposed to control.

I assumed I'd have to figure out what wire on the connector fed what panel switch, put a blade connector on it and plug it into my new switch. Rinse repeat till all the wires are swapped around. I know the current switches are a bit more complex than that. They have a basic light circuit and an "energized" light circuit, as well as the circuit back to the relay, but I didn't think it was going to be all that difficult.


So. Where have I gone completely off the rails?
 
patoz

patoz

Expedition Leader
Basically, I think you're right, although I'm not sure if it's the ground that's switched or the positive side of the relays. Since so much of my system is gone already, I can't test against anything with a meter. I connected a battery to the (+) and (-) post at the bottom of the tall vertical cabinet, but all I'm getting is some clicking and the 'AUX' Solenoid in the top cabinet will not lock in.

Therefore, I'm trying to trace everything from the device end back to the relays so I can tag them and then disconnect the push buttons like you said. If the relays are negatively switched, that will cause me a problem because my new panel is positively switched. I may end up having to rewire everything!

Here is another problem I ran into while attempting to trace wires. Check out the overhead wiring channel... About every 3' there are a group of holes with grommets that bundles of wires disappear into and run above the ceiling, making it impossible to eyeball the wire from device back to relay.

HPIM1466.jpg

HPIM1468.JPG

HPIM1471 - cropped.jpg

I think Monday, I'm going to try to email Wheeled Coach one more time to see if any kind if wiring diagram or Legend for all of their codecs used in the electrical cabinets is available.

I consider myself a pretty fair electrician, but these things look like they were wired by a bunch of amateurs on a Monday morning after a weekend drunk!
 
T

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Good lord. I know my overhead wire trough had some stuff I. It, but I don't remember it being NEAR that much. What in the name of Tom Cruise Scientology could all that possibly be for?

All my switches up in the cab are wired through one of those integrated deals like in your photo. But my switches back in the box, where the thermostat is, are all wired direct. Those will be easy as snot to swap out because no circuit board to figure out.

Good luck on the wiring diagrams (mines a '92, ahem.). Sure that would make your life a whole bunch easier.
 
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