Point Five Ambo Build
- Thread starter patoz
- Start date
patoz
Expedition Leader
Yeah, I know but it's the OCD in me. No one will ever see it when it's done, but I'll know it's there. I'll fix it tomorrow.
The reason I got started so late was because I was up most of the night researching this Blue Sea Systems electrical panel I'm considering. It's not their most current version, but I found it at a very reasonable price considering the quality of their products, and it handles AC and DC both.
Since I don't have or need an engine 'starting' battery bank, I will just have a single 'house' battery bank. I may add a second house bank if needed, but I can manage that with just a simple two battery manual switch to combine them. The DC Main breaker is rated at 100 Amps.
AC source selection is handled by three breakers with lockout bars, which will only let you select one at a time. This is a manual process, but is much cheaper than the rotary selectors. My AC sources will be shore power connection, generator, and inverter.
It will monitor DC amps and volts, and AC amps and volts. There are more than enough positions of each, with room for expansion.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/8086/AC_3_Sources_+_12_Positions_DC_Main_+_19_Position
rlrenz, I would appreciate your input on this to see if I'm over looking anything.
The reason I got started so late was because I was up most of the night researching this Blue Sea Systems electrical panel I'm considering. It's not their most current version, but I found it at a very reasonable price considering the quality of their products, and it handles AC and DC both.
Since I don't have or need an engine 'starting' battery bank, I will just have a single 'house' battery bank. I may add a second house bank if needed, but I can manage that with just a simple two battery manual switch to combine them. The DC Main breaker is rated at 100 Amps.
AC source selection is handled by three breakers with lockout bars, which will only let you select one at a time. This is a manual process, but is much cheaper than the rotary selectors. My AC sources will be shore power connection, generator, and inverter.
It will monitor DC amps and volts, and AC amps and volts. There are more than enough positions of each, with room for expansion.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/8086/AC_3_Sources_+_12_Positions_DC_Main_+_19_Position
rlrenz, I would appreciate your input on this to see if I'm over looking anything.
patoz
Expedition Leader
Tom, the key word there is 'rv style'. RV stuff = Junk! Blue Sea Systems = Top of the line quality!
A panel like this will allow me to get rid of the Wheeled Coach DC panels (x2), which have no room for expansion and are configured wrong for my purposes; add an AC panel with three input transfer capability; adds monitoring of both; adds plenty of space for addition circuits; and does it all in one 11.5" x 19.5" x 3.0" space. Plus it uses standard marine parts which are available everywhere, and is user serviceable. Label sheets are also available so each switch or breaker can be custom labeled accurately. If you don't find what you need, they will make labels to your specifications. Everything on their panels is stainless or Aluminum, with all tinned marine quality wiring. Absolutely nothing to corrode or rust. Remember, I live in Florida just 4 miles North of the Gulf of Mexico.
As far as an automatic transfer switch goes, I have one on my home 15KW natural gas fueled generator and I love it! However, I'm not so sure I want things starting up and running in my camper if I'm not there. Right now, I'm not planning on an installed refrigerator, which is where that would really be useful, but if I do add one it will probably be able to run off of DC anyway. I am planning on installing a remote start kit for my Honda 3KW generator that I'll be using, so I can start it from the inside and won't have to go out in the middle of the night in the rain and cold to do it.
I would not consider buying this panel at their MSRP price, but I've found it for less than one third of that. Plus, they have a great lifetime warranty.
A panel like this will allow me to get rid of the Wheeled Coach DC panels (x2), which have no room for expansion and are configured wrong for my purposes; add an AC panel with three input transfer capability; adds monitoring of both; adds plenty of space for addition circuits; and does it all in one 11.5" x 19.5" x 3.0" space. Plus it uses standard marine parts which are available everywhere, and is user serviceable. Label sheets are also available so each switch or breaker can be custom labeled accurately. If you don't find what you need, they will make labels to your specifications. Everything on their panels is stainless or Aluminum, with all tinned marine quality wiring. Absolutely nothing to corrode or rust. Remember, I live in Florida just 4 miles North of the Gulf of Mexico.
As far as an automatic transfer switch goes, I have one on my home 15KW natural gas fueled generator and I love it! However, I'm not so sure I want things starting up and running in my camper if I'm not there. Right now, I'm not planning on an installed refrigerator, which is where that would really be useful, but if I do add one it will probably be able to run off of DC anyway. I am planning on installing a remote start kit for my Honda 3KW generator that I'll be using, so I can start it from the inside and won't have to go out in the middle of the night in the rain and cold to do it.
I would not consider buying this panel at their MSRP price, but I've found it for less than one third of that. Plus, they have a great lifetime warranty.
https://www.bluesea.com/forms/warrantyregistration
Generally basic rv transfer switches wont fire up your generator if you lose shore power. You can get that function but it's more elaborate and consequently costs more. Most of the time they just switch from shore power to generator power when you fire it up manually. At least that's the way mine works. And it was actually one of the few things that isn't junk. It uses standard house style breakers inside of the cutler/hammer or..square D (?) variety, depending on who you buy it from. I lost one in a lightning strike or other power surge, replaced it myself by sourcing via that there internets, and think I paid like $125 for it. A far cry from the $275 the RV dis-Service dept wanted.
patoz
Expedition Leader
OK, I thought you were talking about an automatic transfer switch. I looked at one at our local camper/RV store a couple of weeks ago, and it was just a couple of relays mounted in a sheet metal box. Maybe, that was just part of the system, but it didn't look like much. Some of the bigger inverters have a built in transfer switch that function like you're talking about also.
No work done on my build today, but I did pick up my new batteries and associated hardware. I went across town to the distributor, where the Trojan customer service rep told me to go, only to be told they would sell to me but their prices were $20-30 more than our local retailer. I ask him where the retailer was located, and he gave me the address. It turns out it's a place that sells custom golf carts and buggy's, and it's only two miles from my house. They also stock things like constant duty solenoids, big circuit breakers, cables, terminals, etc.
The guy even threw in a used, 6 battery E-Z-GO 608812 Trojan Battery Filling System which sells for $262.95 on Amazon, for 10 bucks. This is only half of the system (the expensive half), but I can get the hand pump on Amazon for $20.00.
BTW, I found this posted on here (ExPo) by another member back in 2010. It's like the bible for batteries.
CAR AND DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FAQ 2014
Bill Darden
Last Update on December 14, 2014
It's pretty much, 'everything you've always wanted to ask, but were afraid too'!
No work done on my build today, but I did pick up my new batteries and associated hardware. I went across town to the distributor, where the Trojan customer service rep told me to go, only to be told they would sell to me but their prices were $20-30 more than our local retailer. I ask him where the retailer was located, and he gave me the address. It turns out it's a place that sells custom golf carts and buggy's, and it's only two miles from my house. They also stock things like constant duty solenoids, big circuit breakers, cables, terminals, etc.
The guy even threw in a used, 6 battery E-Z-GO 608812 Trojan Battery Filling System which sells for $262.95 on Amazon, for 10 bucks. This is only half of the system (the expensive half), but I can get the hand pump on Amazon for $20.00.
BTW, I found this posted on here (ExPo) by another member back in 2010. It's like the bible for batteries.
CAR AND DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FAQ 2014
Bill Darden
Last Update on December 14, 2014
http://www.batteryfaq.org/
It's pretty much, 'everything you've always wanted to ask, but were afraid too'!
flightcancled
Explorer
Like I said in my email thanks a lot.man it has been a pleasure. Love how you sent it at Pat o'clock, the middle of the night,
patoz
Expedition Leader
It was 12:24 AM CST here so that was Christmas morning to me!
I forgot you're dependent on your phone, which was probably on your night stand, with email notifications enabled, right?It has been a pleasure here also, and looking forward to a great New Year!
flightcancled
Explorer
No worries, it lives on vibrate.
rlrenz
Explorer
You can't go wrong with Blue Sea equipment. Far from the cheapest, but it does the job very nicely. I'm in the process of modifying my Medic-Master's radio cabinet (front corner of the module, next to the action station) by adding a recessed 120 VAC panel to the side, with a DC panel either on the side or on the door (with a loop to handle the door opening). The control equipment for the new 120 VAC air conditioning will also go into the same cabinet. The cabinet is also the return-air plenum for the AC / heating system, so there's plenty of air flow for equipment cooling. All the panels / equipment will be Blue Sea. Blue Sea is also popular with emergency vehicle builders, with Paneltronics from time to time
patoz
Expedition Leader
I love Blue Sea stuff, and have ordered a lot of it already. Plus, Amazon has a Blue Sea Store and I'm a prime member.
I thought I had my panel narrowed down to the one I posted above. However, it's 19.5" wide and after measuring the location where I wanted to mount it, I've discovered it's slightly too narrow without some serious cabinet modifications, which I'd hoped to avoid.
The price on that panel has come down to the point I'm tempted to buy it anyway. I can use a smaller AC/DC panel or two separate AC and DC panels, but I would be looking at more than double (almost triple actually) the cost. I'm not at that point in the build yet, but I would sure hate to miss out on a fantastic deal.
I thought I had my panel narrowed down to the one I posted above. However, it's 19.5" wide and after measuring the location where I wanted to mount it, I've discovered it's slightly too narrow without some serious cabinet modifications, which I'd hoped to avoid.
The price on that panel has come down to the point I'm tempted to buy it anyway. I can use a smaller AC/DC panel or two separate AC and DC panels, but I would be looking at more than double (almost triple actually) the cost. I'm not at that point in the build yet, but I would sure hate to miss out on a fantastic deal.
patoz
Expedition Leader
Well, I made a little progress today. I put on my electrician hat and made wiring harnesses all day.
This is the 7-wire system that will control the tail, brake, turn, and clearance/marker/ID lights, along with controlling the electric trailer brakes, and charging the on-board house batteries and the emergency breakaway battery.
I purchased each piece separately and assembled it myself, because I couldn't find a system that would suit my needs. I've also added a few things that you don't normally find on a standard trailer wiring setup. The wiring in the left side of the picture will go towards the coupler, and the right side will go towards the rear. I added a couple of other things that are not in this picture, because I was in a hurry to take this before the sun went down.
1. Left upper corner - This is the 7-wire cable and plug that connects to the tow vehicle. It's 10' long right now because I'm not sure of the permanent location of the junction box. It will be trimmed in length once that is determined.
2. Left lower corner - That black wire is for the power tongue jack. It has a quick disconnect connector (that you can't see) so the power head can be removed when not in use. Also, the leads for the breakaway switch enter here, but it's not in this picture.
3. Right upper corner - No connection right now, but that is for the cable going to the electric brakes, which is the red wire laying on the ground.
4. Right lower corner - The white wire is an 8 Ga. (didn't have any white 10 Ga.) ground wire which will connect to the frame. The 4-wire flat connector is for the temporary taillights I have mounted on the rear now. This will be removed once the permanent lights are mounted and the OEM wiring connected in it's place.
This doesn't look like much, but building this stuff is very time consuming, especially when you have to hunt down the right connectors, heat shrink tubing, stainless hardware, etc. that I have...just don't remember where it all is. I'm also reusing as much of the wire and convoluted tubing, that I salvaged from the cab and other sources (thanks Alex), as I can. It takes time to sort through the huge pile of wire I now have, to find just the right gauge, length, and matching color, but I'm determined not to have to buy anymore than absolutely necessary.
This is the 7-wire system that will control the tail, brake, turn, and clearance/marker/ID lights, along with controlling the electric trailer brakes, and charging the on-board house batteries and the emergency breakaway battery.
I purchased each piece separately and assembled it myself, because I couldn't find a system that would suit my needs. I've also added a few things that you don't normally find on a standard trailer wiring setup. The wiring in the left side of the picture will go towards the coupler, and the right side will go towards the rear. I added a couple of other things that are not in this picture, because I was in a hurry to take this before the sun went down.
1. Left upper corner - This is the 7-wire cable and plug that connects to the tow vehicle. It's 10' long right now because I'm not sure of the permanent location of the junction box. It will be trimmed in length once that is determined.
2. Left lower corner - That black wire is for the power tongue jack. It has a quick disconnect connector (that you can't see) so the power head can be removed when not in use. Also, the leads for the breakaway switch enter here, but it's not in this picture.
3. Right upper corner - No connection right now, but that is for the cable going to the electric brakes, which is the red wire laying on the ground.
4. Right lower corner - The white wire is an 8 Ga. (didn't have any white 10 Ga.) ground wire which will connect to the frame. The 4-wire flat connector is for the temporary taillights I have mounted on the rear now. This will be removed once the permanent lights are mounted and the OEM wiring connected in it's place.
This doesn't look like much, but building this stuff is very time consuming, especially when you have to hunt down the right connectors, heat shrink tubing, stainless hardware, etc. that I have...just don't remember where it all is.
I'm also reusing as much of the wire and convoluted tubing, that I salvaged from the cab and other sources (thanks Alex), as I can. It takes time to sort through the huge pile of wire I now have, to find just the right gauge, length, and matching color, but I'm determined not to have to buy anymore than absolutely necessary.