Popular winch mods?

[troyboy162]

i posted on another forum about XRC8 winches and replacing grease. heres the best links i found on the subject. in the research i found that the design also effects t-max winches. nothing wrong with it but just a little extra effort is needed as you have found.

thought id make a new post about this. these winches dont free spool very well becuase of the thick grease inside the gear box. this style of winch (T-max style) spins the gear box even when you are free spooling. anyhow here are the links explaining the fix. i choose not to use brake cleaner to flush out the stock grease as i think it is high quality

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/smittybilt-xrc-8-clutch-spooling-984087/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/xrc8-free-spool-fix-932987/
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=992998&postcount=18
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/product-reviews/85301-smittybuilt-xrc-8-maintenance.html
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/xrc8-free-spool-fix-932987/

taking it apart is easy and the gears come out as sub-assembles

Jeep Wrangler XRC8 Winch (Plenty of cable...92ft) an example....

 

[TreeTopFlyer]

Got mine from a Warn distributor, but these guys have a huge selection also:

http://www.vteworld.com/

I have bought stuff from them before and always been happy with the transaction.

Just bought some boots from these guys and a few fuses. Super cheap, great to deal with. The boots are around .50/ea. I bought the fuses because down here at West Marine a 500A ANL is 20 bucks. VTE's price $5 bucks :ylsmoke:

 

[Utah KJ]

I got rid of solenoids all togther. This baby is sealed, 100% waterproof and does not use solenoids. I was a product tester on this baby that I was given in 2008. I was told by the manufacturer at EJS 2011 that they've disco'd the product because the high cost was not well received in the retail market. It's been very reliable and has worked great through the years I've owned it.

 

[Utah KJ]

Just bought some boots from these guys and a few fuses. Super cheap, great to deal with. The boots are around .50/ea. I bought the fuses because down here at West Marine a 500A ANL is 20 bucks. VTE's price $5 bucks :ylsmoke:

Hopefully, that fuse is fire-proof so you can use it in your next rig in case there's a fire. :ylsmoke:

 

[TreeTopFlyer]

Hopefully, that fuse is fire-proof so you can use it in your next rig in case there's a fire. :ylsmoke:

I'll point the halon nozzle at it. The fuse is for a different project.

 

[Antichrist]

Here is a link to Albright's specs. The one that folks (including me) in this thread are using is Albright P/N DC88P; look down to the top of page 7 and the specs are there. If you look at the "Contact Performance" curve in upper right of that page, you will see that this contactor is rated at 100 amps for continuous (non-stop) use, 200 amps for 350 seconds (5.8 minutes), 300 amps for 160 seconds (2.6 minutes), and 400 amps for 75 seconds, and up to 800 amps for a very short time (such as winch motor start-up).

Missed this reply before.
Yeah, those duty cycles make me nervous. But I've sent off an enquiry to Albright about others.

 

[AxeAngel]

Tom, interested to know how much amperage your 8274s pull? I would have guessed below 300A.

-Sam

 

[1911]

Tom, interested to know how much amperage your 8274s pull? I would have guessed below 300A.

-Sam

The (new?) M8274-50 that Overland Journal tested in their winch test issue pulled 660 amps max. at start-up and averaged 165 amps during the test pull.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/resources/equipment-review-and-testing/240-tug-of-war-the-ultimate-12v-winch-test.pdf

 

[Antichrist]

According to the Warn owners manual the 8274 draws 450amps are 8,000lb. Mind you, I've had this one since 1974/5 so they may have improved them.

I'm not too worried about start-up draw as that's momentary and if the volt drop is excessive for a second or two that's not a huge deal.
It's the volt drop during normal work that is of more concern to me. That's why I upgrade the power cables to max out volt drop to about 0.30v at full load. It should always be under 0.50v.

As I posted in another thread, my Ramsey RE10000 is a lot less, 335amps at full load.

 

[1911]

I'm not too worried about start-up draw as that's momentary and if the volt drop is excessive for a second or two that's not a huge deal.
It's the volt drop during normal work that is of more concern to me. That's why I upgrade the power cables to max out volt drop to about 0.30v at full load. It should always be under 0.50v.

yeah, my 1978 8274 came with 4-gauge power cables, which I upgraded to either 1 or 0-gauge, I forget which.