Nice home built jack screws. The tapered bearings should provide nice smooth operation. Don't forget to allow access for lubrication of the screw and nut as they can tend to drag or bind when dry. I like the torque tube idea that should be the way to go and a easy fab. If you can source some inexpensive 12/24vdc gear motors to drive your jack pairs a simple limit switch circuit would provide for accurate positioning and easy solo or remote operation. Not really necessary but kind of trick to watch and may be handy when setting up in ugly weather.
Popup lift more than 1m?
- Thread starter dzzz
- Start date
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
If you are going to use a motor I would suggest using one motor and do the synchronizing with some sort of positive drive assembly, like a chain & sprockets or a cog timing belt and pulleys. It can take a lot of controls work to keep motors synchronized. Unsynchronized motors possibly means binding up what ever you're moving. That would be unpleasant in bad weather. All that it would need would be for one side to move more easily than the other.
Something to note about Acme threads; since they are designed to transmit force they are poor at binding up. Meaning that it is almost impossible to do something like use a second nut to "jam" the threads at any particular position. What this means is that there is the potential for vibration (gusting winds, road vibration, etc.) to change the setting. This may or may not be a problem, but I'd suggest designing in a method for securing what ever you're moving that is independent of the threads.
Something to note about Acme threads; since they are designed to transmit force they are poor at binding up. Meaning that it is almost impossible to do something like use a second nut to "jam" the threads at any particular position. What this means is that there is the potential for vibration (gusting winds, road vibration, etc.) to change the setting. This may or may not be a problem, but I'd suggest designing in a method for securing what ever you're moving that is independent of the threads.
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Actually he could add a additional bevel gear in two of the gear box's to provide a 90 degree output from those two box's. Tie all four together with three torque tubes and drive them from a single input. Each screw would stay in time as they will be physically tied together and any binding or drag will be shared by all four screws. A simple hand crank with cog style lock would be the cheapest way to raise and lower. Install rubber stops and tabs on the full up and full down positions and run the top until it slightly compresses the rubber then lock the cog this will keep the assembly under tension and eliminate creep. I would probably go with a gear motor or even a pneumatic impact gun with the hammers removed to drive the assy. Another good use for the onboard air and I'm kinda lazy like that.
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63tlf8
Observer
“lubrication of the screw and nut as they can tend to drag or bind when dry. I like the torque tube idea”
When your Mog has a million grease nipples, another few are no big deal. I have included lubrication for all the components.
“designing in a method for securing what ever you're moving that is independent of the threads”
Will be done using pins through the sliding tubes to locate the roof in the up position. The upper section lowers onto bump stops and I have a few over centre catches in mind to hold it in the down position
“add a additional bevel gear in two of the gear box's to provide a 90 degree output from those two box's. Tie all four together with three torque tubes and drive them from a single input. A simple hand crank with cog style lock would be the cheapest way to raise and lower”
Jury is still out on this. Current plan is for my wife and me to participate in synchronous winding. Halves the load and complexity. Have considered the powered options and decided no electrical method will be used. I have air and air ratchets so that is always an option for the future however a simple fore and aft torque tube will reverse the direction of one of the pinions which would really make your day. Coupling requires a bit of thought to get it reliably right.
Cheers
Tony
When your Mog has a million grease nipples, another few are no big deal. I have included lubrication for all the components.
“designing in a method for securing what ever you're moving that is independent of the threads”
Will be done using pins through the sliding tubes to locate the roof in the up position. The upper section lowers onto bump stops and I have a few over centre catches in mind to hold it in the down position
“add a additional bevel gear in two of the gear box's to provide a 90 degree output from those two box's. Tie all four together with three torque tubes and drive them from a single input. A simple hand crank with cog style lock would be the cheapest way to raise and lower”
Jury is still out on this. Current plan is for my wife and me to participate in synchronous winding. Halves the load and complexity. Have considered the powered options and decided no electrical method will be used. I have air and air ratchets so that is always an option for the future however a simple fore and aft torque tube will reverse the direction of one of the pinions which would really make your day. Coupling requires a bit of thought to get it reliably right.
Cheers
Tony
63tlf8
Observer
Hi Tom,
Too early to see the finished product but here is a .jpg of a very rough sketchup model. Things are progressing!!!
Tony
Attachments
63tlf8
Observer
If that throw away line were possible I would, just to save a heap of time, but as new or old Alaskans just haven't made the journey here I guess I'll just have to make something a little like one.
Cheers :beer:
Mickldo
Adventurer
Looking good so far Tony. Where are you based in Oz?
63tlf8
Observer
G'day Mick,
Canberra. Looking Ok. I don't have the resources to prototype so I will have a few experimental techniques in the build and the outcome may be a bit different to some of the industry standard solutions. I'm building in the backyard so the weather isn't ideal at the moment. Still, there's always something else to do and plenty of time to do it in.
You have to look on the bright side, after reading all the canter woes at least I don't need to worry about my chassis.:sunny:
Tony
Mickldo
Adventurer
I won't hold that against you
There is heaps of info on here so good luck. If there are any construction technique questions you have just ask, I am foreman at a workshop that does very similar work plus there are a heap of other talented people on this site that can help. PM me if you want.
Now that is just cheeky:sombrero:
63tlf8
Observer
I won't hold that against you
There is heaps of info on here so good luck. If there are any construction technique questions you have just ask, I am foreman at a workshop that does very similar work plus there are a heap of other talented people on this site that can help. PM me if you want.
Now that is just cheeky:sombrero:
1. You shouldn't. After all it's (collectively) your reps that give the place it's bad name. Just keep them at home and we'll all be happy.
2. Thanks for the offer, not being in the game makes it difficult at times. The site is full of good information. I now have time on my hands, was an engineer (Mecheng) and much earlier a Fitter / Turner and Diesel Fitter so I have enough background to muddle through. Unfortunately no shop so its a backyard job. I would give your left for some of the setups I've had in the past.
3. You pays your money etc... Actually I was looking at a Canter quite some years ago and it would have met my particular requirements if the tyres / rims / difflocks / suspension changes etc hadn't cost more than the MOG. Happy with what I have with all its limitations and you can't turn one into the other.
I was in Brisbane for the first two weeks in June, the time it wasn't raining. I'd be making a sight more progress if I was there now.
Tony
Mickldo
Adventurer
1. No problems. :bike_rider:
2. Yeah it sounds like you have the skills. Lack of workshop has been my main problem in recent history. Luckily I have that covered now, I have just moved into a new house with a huge shed. Of course that now means I have no money for the next 30 years or so......
3. Yeah sometimes you just have to make the best of what you have. I'd love a Mog, OKA, Canter or an Isuzu but I am going to have to make do with my 100 series for a while longer yet.
Did you make it to the Brissy camping show while you were here?
63tlf8
Observer
No, looked at the pix on the forum when I got home. We're up there regularly and last went to the show in 2004 (on a Thu or Fri from memory) Place was absolutely chockers at 10 and you could hardly move.
Fortunately I have everything I need so not in the market for anything new. I'm a little past the point where any brilliant design I saw is able to be incorporated into mine so I did some jobs for my Mum instead.
Mickldo
Adventurer
I am looking at chopping my 105 and making a camper like Soenkes. I have been thinking about all the various lift mechanisms a lot lately. On Saturday morning I was at the recycling shop at the local tip and I saw a couple of Hill's clothes hoists there. That got the wheels turning.
Has anybody (aussies) ever pulled apart a Hill's hoist? Would the internals be any good for use in a pop top lift?
Might be a cheap source for lift mechanisms.....
Has anybody (aussies) ever pulled apart a Hill's hoist? Would the internals be any good for use in a pop top lift?
Might be a cheap source for lift mechanisms.....
63tlf8
Observer
G'day Mick,
Anythings possible but there is a lot against it. My Hills had a cheap rack which means leverage issues, the gear needs to be mounted at the top of the cab to allow the rack to remain within the cab shape when lowered etc etc. I've looked at just about every system that has been used plus a few that are "secret" from Australian campers.
Everything depends on your priorities and preferences. Many of my observations in the decision process have been borne out by comments in this and other forums by people who have that system. Rather than rehash a lot of bandwith on systems that many others wouldn't choose, PM me and I can let you know what I found out on a range of options and you can then use that info in your own selection.
I'm happy with my own selection. Against it for some are that it's manual where many want to just rub the bottle, and it only cost about $400 for the full 4 jacks with a 950mm lift (plus a squillion hours of my free time which certainly isn't an option for many)
Being in the business with access to a workshop would make the choices far more open for you too.
Cheers
Tony