Post up your drawer/storage system

[rawlk]

I Finally get to contribute!

Took a lot of inspiration from this thread. Its made entirely of 3/4" and carpeted with indoor/outdoor carpet from home depot, little overkill, but it is a rock.





a little over 2/3'rds length drawers with cubbies on both sides and in the front with JUST enough room up front for dual optima yellowtops and the air tank and electronics

 

[1MK]

Picked up a 55" ARB from Sierra Expeditions.

Can't wait to get it mounted and properly organized as I just placed everything that was currently in our 2 big totes into the drawer to see how much stuff it'd hold. I'm sure they'll be a bunch more room once we take the time to pack it and utilize a couple smaller totes on the top.

 

[Lucky j]

Nice storage space! How do you secure the tot on top of the sliding cover?

 

[1MK]

Nice storage space! How do you secure the tot on top of the sliding cover?

The space is incredible! And it's all easily accessible too which is the nice part.

That is the old tote style I was using before. I purchased some of FrontRunner's Wolfpack and Cub storage containers and plan on adding L track to the slider cover to have multiple anchor points.

 

[MattL]

A work in progress. The idea behind this is the ability to be modular. The fridge (63qt) section is independent of the storage section to the left of it so that either can be removed easily. Both will be secured to the 3rd row seat holes that are connected directly to the vehicle on the floor. The storage section top is not yet connected, I still need to figure out if I want to hinge the top or part of the top. Also the storage section is made to be flush with the 2nd row seat folded down to that 1 person can sleep in the vehicle. The shelving area to the right side of the fridge can hold 6 - 1gal. water bottles if need be, a bunch of hiking poles or even 2 - 5-gal septer type cans etc. This section can also be accessed via the side window.

I still need to figure out a protective coating for the entire system. I'm leaning towards a tan colored Al's Liner but also open to carpeting in specific locations.

Here it is with the fridge removed and slides extended. Aux slide is for holding drinks/food, not the best for cutting due to the slides being lightweight.

 

[yonah]

Picked up a 55" ARB from Sierra Expeditions.

Can't wait to get it mounted and properly organized as I just placed everything that was currently in our 2 big totes into the drawer to see how much stuff it'd hold. I'm sure they'll be a bunch more room once we take the time to pack it and utilize a couple smaller totes on the top.

I have two of these in my truck (non-roller floor variants). They're my favorite modification to the Tacoma next to the ARB fridge/freezer.

 

[Tacotruck7]

Heres my first build for my short bed.

https://imgur.com/gallery/LfqFk

 

[Shred-Head]

ARB Outback Drawer

Installed my ARB Outback Solutions roller drawer this week. Also built a flat platform in the cargo area for the drawer to bolt down to. Used 3/4" birch ply, primed and coated with bed liner.

I still need to add tie-down track to the top of the drawer and on the left side next to the drawer on the cargo plate. Installed T-nuts in the cargo plate so I can easily bolt things down. I'm also planning on making some drawer dividers to keep things neatly organized. Eventually I will add a 2nd drawer next to this when I have the funds, but no rush at this point. I also want to add a sleeping platform extension that mounts to the rear drawers for support.

 

[chand-o]

Hi All

Some great builds on here, really impressed! I am in the planning of stages of a drawer system for my LR90. I will only be build a single drawer and fridge slide but I'd like to keep the weight down. Has anyone considered an aluminum frame and mounting runners to it? Or a steel frame with thinner plywood covering it?

 

[ffdrew]

Hi All

Some great builds on here, really impressed! I am in the planning of stages of a drawer system for my LR90. I will only be build a single drawer and fridge slide but I'd like to keep the weight down. Has anyone considered an aluminum frame and mounting runners to it? Or a steel frame with thinner plywood covering it?

I'm also in the planning stages on my 5th gen 4Runner, and weight is the biggest thing for me too. Leaning heavily toward building the frame out of t-slot aluminum https://8020.net/shop/1010-s.html. Definitely on the pricier end, but I have no welding skills, especially with aluminum. The slots should work out well for mounting slides/tie down points/etc. I'll post pics to this thread once I break ground.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

Comparing the 1" square 8020 that you selected weighs 0.5088 pounds per foot. I just randomly selected an online metal supplier to get the weight of 1" square X .125" wall with radius corners (just for appearances). It weighs 0.512 pounds per foot. So there would only be a few pounds difference in a complete assembly unless you used a lot of material.

One possible option is to use 1" square X 0.065" wall. This tube has square corners. It weighs 0.209 pounds per foot. Over half the weight as the thicker wall. You will have to be the judge if it would be strong enough for you.

Someone posted some pieces that allow you to build a snap together frame, but I do not recall what size tube it fits. This would give you an assembly option similar to 8020.

Reason I am posting this is to make you aware that while 8020 is a great structural option, it is not as light as you might think it is. I have used tons of 8020 types and brands of extruded structures to build industrial equipment. It is a great product that is strong and offers a large variety of assembly options, BUT lightness it is not. Here is where the 8020 shines in that it is stronger than an aluminum tube of the same weight. Do you need that additional strength? I haven't touched on the ability to add attachment, at which point 8020 blows everything out of the water. Costly when compared to aluminum tubing with snap together fittings.

One thing most people do not know is that if you send a drawing of what you want to 8020 they will assemble it for you. I have never used that resource. Even if it is just a simple sketch they will work with you to design what you need.

 

[ffdrew]

Comparing the 1" square 8020 that you selected weighs 0.5088 pounds per foot. I just randomly selected an online metal supplier to get the weight of 1" square X .125" wall with radius corners (just for appearances). It weighs 0.512 pounds per foot. So there would only be a few pounds difference in a complete assembly unless you used a lot of material.

One possible option is to use 1" square X 0.065" wall. This tube has square corners. It weighs 0.209 pounds per foot. Over half the weight as the thicker wall. You will have to be the judge if it would be strong enough for you.

Someone posted some pieces that allow you to build a snap together frame, but I do not recall what size tube it fits. This would give you an assembly option similar to 8020.

Reason I am posting this is to make you aware that while 8020 is a great structural option, it is not as light as you might think it is. I have used tons of 8020 types and brands of extruded structures to build industrial equipment. It is a great product that is strong and offers a large variety of assembly options, BUT lightness it is not. Here is where the 8020 shines in that it is stronger than an aluminum tube of the same weight. Do you need that additional strength? I haven't touched on the ability to add attachment, at which point 8020 blows everything out of the water. Costly when compared to aluminum tubing with snap together fittings.

One thing most people do not know is that if you send a drawing of what you want to 8020 they will assemble it for you. I have never used that resource. Even if it is just a simple sketch they will work with you to design what you need.

Interesting. Thanks for the info. Looks like I'll be extending the research phase!
I was also looking at eztube with snap together fittings. I'm still trying to decide how I'd attach drawer slides if I went that direction.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

Drawer slides could be easily attached by drilling the tube and bolting in the slide. You would want some T shape fittings so that you can do one or two vertical up rights on each side for support. These uprights can also be used for attaching your slides to.

 

[feltproductive]

Discovery Td5 Sleeping Platform.

This is my first post, and as I haven't seen much online about sleeping systems in the Discovery I thought I'd share my build. It's pretty basic, but the box in the boot has two compartments with storage crates inside. Opened up, it has supporting arms to let you use it as a table / work area. Fold the back seats down, and a platform concertinas out over the seats and gets hooked to the driver & passenger seat headrests to keep it supported. I got some 25mm EVA foam offcuts to make a mattress, which also folds for better storage.

I'm tempted to put a drawer that pulls out to form a kitchen bench, to replace the table hanging from the boot door, but still looking for a good solution - those heavy duty drawer slides are EXPENSIVE! At some point I'll paint it / varnish it too, but right now this cost about £70 all in!

The bed is 180cm long, and I'm 6'3", but my partner and I get a good nights sleep in there - I just sleep at a bit of a diagonal!
Next job is a diy foxwing awning for the tailgate.

Anyway, hope it's useful to someone!


Image 1 - the sleeping platform packed away. The mattress is seen here in blue upholstery.


Image 2 - the bed platform setup.


Image 3 - the storage system underneath with fold-up table.

 

[WyoCherokee]

I Removed the Bench seat from my MJ and swapped in buckets.....therefore i needed a center console. I got the basic framing of it done. just need to cut out the cupholders, add trimming, add in my 12v power block, and prep it for switches.