power panel questions/suggestions

[dreadlocks]

How many batteries you got? nobody should ever run 2000W off a single battery setup, you need like >300AH of capacity to support that kinda device correctly.. If you just wanting to charge laptops and stuff just ditch the mega inverter and get one more appropriate sized for your loads.. a 400W inverter running at 80% load is going to be more efficient typically than a 2000W inverter running at 20% load.

Also keep in mind as loads go up, your capacity goes down.. if you do fire that inverter up, without enough battery backing it.. it'll suck that battery dry in no time at all.. if you have like 100AH @ 5A rate, you'll have less than 25AH at 200A rate.

Dont install anything without adequate wiring and fuses to support it at full load, your just asking for trouble.

Ive got a 1000W inverter, I run microwaves and coffee makers just fine.. by the time you have worked your way up to 2000W needs, you should really consider changing over to a 24v system to cut the amps and wiring needs in half.

 

[blackohio]

How many batteries you got? nobody should ever run 2000W off a single battery setup, you need like >300AH of capacity to support that kinda device correctly.. If you just wanting to charge laptops and stuff just ditch the mega inverter and get one more appropriate sized for your loads.. a 400W inverter running at 80% load is going to be more efficient typically than a 2000W inverter running at 20% load.

Also keep in mind as loads go up, your capacity goes down.. if you do fire that inverter up, without enough battery backing it.. it'll suck that battery dry in no time at all.. if you have like 100AH @ 5A rate, you'll have less than 25AH at 200A rate.

Dont install anything without adequate wiring and fuses to support it at full load, your just asking for trouble.

Ive got a 1000W inverter, I run microwaves and coffee makers just fine.. by the time you have worked your way up to 2000W needs, you should really consider changing over to a 24v system to cut the amps and wiring needs in half.

I don't really need the inverter, never have. Just bought it to fill space really on the build. I'm running a northstar agm480 (217ah battery) as dedicated house battery and really the only thing i'll ever run off it (battery) are the fridge and lighting.

 

[Buddha.]

Can you fit enough solar to keep up with that battery and inverter?

 

[john61ct]

I don't really need the inverter, never have. Just bought it to fill space really on the build.

Wow.

Well that's different

 

[blackohio]

Wow.

Well that's different

if you only knew.

 

[blackohio]

Can you fit enough solar to keep up with that battery and inverter?

if / when the inverter is even used it’ll just be to charge laptops honestly.

i’ve run a dual battery 232ah setup fed only by 150watt panels and it’s never had an issue thus far. this new will take both solar and alternator power so i’m figuring it’ll be ok.

 

[john61ct]

Laptops - all screen gadgets, which run off DC batteries - are much more efficiently charged direct off 12V DC.

 

[Alloy]

I've filed similar knock-outs and used emery paper to further smooth the opening. Even if the grommet, gland, or other protection fails, the wire still won't easily chafe on the back plane.

De-burring may work on metal over 1/8" but under that..... . . . a dull knife cuts it just takes longer...... eg. 4 years for a 10ga brake wire over the edge of a .100" crossmember to short out.

 

[dreadlocks]

if you dont have a USB-C laptop, DC chargers can quickly cost more than a decent small inverter.. and with a small inverter the losses are mostly negligible if its running high in its efficiency range.

Using a big honking inverter to charge a laptop, usually way out of efficiency range.. very well could take more energy just to power the inverter idle than it does to charge the device.. when they say 80-90% efficient, they mean that as a maximum, you can still drive it way lower than that.. it also costs more than any DC charger would and adds several more points of failure.. sooo, IMHO.. wiring up a 2k inverter just to charge up some laptops, is really bad engineering at best.. Most full timers w/TV's run lil 100W inverters for the TV because it can run all day long w/out putting a dent in house batteries, whereas w/big house inverter they only get a fraction of the runtime.

But i guess if you just turn it off and almost never use it, then whatever floats yer boat.

 

[Alloy]

area is drip free. panel is going to powder today. i’ve decided to use groove grommeting from noble. it’s thicker and silicone glues in-place. the wire from the breaker is one i feel most secure about. it’s recessed and tight to the wire and hole so nothing should move around.

all the wires are secured down on the backside to stop movement as much as possible.

As you tighen the lug up on the breaker it puts tension on the wire which forces it against the edge of the hole. You want to allow for movement... both vibration and thermal expansion. It also makes it easier to see/find wear and tear.

Are the holes oversized to allow for 1/16" of powder coating on both edges?

 

[blackohio]

As you tighen the lug up on the breaker it puts tension on the wire which forces it against the edge of the hole. You want to allow for movement... both vibration and thermal expansion. It also makes it easier to see/find wear and tear.

Are the holes oversized to allow for 1/16" of powder coating on both edges?

most holes are well larger than they need to be, and since i've found groove grommeting from noble will go through and replace all grommets with that. I came to not love most of the grommets fitments

 

[blackohio]

if you dont have a USB-C laptop, DC chargers can quickly cost more than a decent small inverter.. and with a small inverter the losses are mostly negligible if its running high in its efficiency range.

Using a big honking inverter to charge a laptop, usually way out of efficiency range.. very well could take more energy just to power the inverter idle than it does to charge the device.. when they say 80-90% efficient, they mean that as a maximum, you can still drive it way lower than that.. it also costs more than any DC charger would and adds several more points of failure.. sooo, IMHO.. wiring up a 2k inverter just to charge up some laptops, is really bad engineering at best.. Most full timers w/TV's run lil 100W inverters for the TV because it can run all day long w/out putting a dent in house batteries, whereas w/big house inverter they only get a fraction of the runtime.

But i guess if you just turn it off and almost never use it, then whatever floats yer boat.

guess the next owner can run a restaurant out of the truck for a short period of time. Since inverters arent something i can imagine myself actually using I bought based off some max size idea. Obviously I have more money than sense.

 

[Alloy]

guess the next owner can run a restaurant out of the truck for a short period of time. Since inverters arent something i can imagine myself actually using I bought based off some max size idea. Obviously I have more money than sense.

Make sure the wire (NOT the inverter) is protected with the correct size fuse or breaker so if you forget or the next owner that doen't know uses it there won't be a fire.

 

[blackohio]

Make sure the wire (NOT the inverter) is protected with the correct size fuse or breaker so if you forget or the next owner that doen't know uses it there won't be a fire.

there’s a inline anl fuse on the back of the panel i have 60 and up to 300 or so fuses

everything either has a breaker or inline fuse between the device and power source. as well between the battery and the panel bulkheads.

 

[shade]

I've been meaning to ask, and since this is indirectly related to the topic, would 1/4" polycarbonate sheet work well for a large mounting surface on par with the OP's project? I've worked with it on other projects and been satisfied with its durability, it's easy to saw & drill, and it's non-conductive.