Project: Doitall Dodge
- Thread starter Metcalf
- Start date
lstzephyr
wanderer
With aircraft stripper you really have to scrape the hell out of it. Grab a big putty knife and do alternating bits at a time. Soak one side while scraping the other. Don't let it soak too long or it will start congealing into a melted paint goo. The stuff is nasty, and makes a mess of everything but it makes it alot easier to come back with the grinder to knock off the extra.
This tank was bedlinered camo, and it still took a couple hours to get all the paint off with aircraft stripper.
Before
After
This tank was bedlinered camo, and it still took a couple hours to get all the paint off with aircraft stripper.
Before
After
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
"Tal-Strip", if still available in the original formula, is reported to remove catalyzed Imron nearly immediately. Would be my first choice. Still gonna make a mell of a hess.
I'd think that media blasting would be laughed at by the liner. My old roommate's Ex owned a Line-X operation in Nor-Ca. One of his biggest set of customers were the local nut packing houses. They would have him spray the concrete driveways and ramps around the buildings where the forklifts ran. Without the spraying the forklifts would grind the nut shells into the concrete and they'd have to tear out the concrete every 2-3 years and replace it. They would get ruts too deep for the forklifts to be able to steer out of.
With the spraying they could get 6 months to a year out of each spraying, and 5+ years out of the concrete. Cut that part of their operating expenses to a 1/3 of what it had been.
I'd think that media blasting would be laughed at by the liner. My old roommate's Ex owned a Line-X operation in Nor-Ca. One of his biggest set of customers were the local nut packing houses. They would have him spray the concrete driveways and ramps around the buildings where the forklifts ran. Without the spraying the forklifts would grind the nut shells into the concrete and they'd have to tear out the concrete every 2-3 years and replace it. They would get ruts too deep for the forklifts to be able to steer out of.
With the spraying they could get 6 months to a year out of each spraying, and 5+ years out of the concrete. Cut that part of their operating expenses to a 1/3 of what it had been.
BlueBomber
Adventurer
Looking good!
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Valve adjustment is done! All where loose. I used the alternator bolt (22mm) to turn the motor, This worked WAY better than I thought it would. I'm really glad I didn't buy the special tool for that! I used the 'up-down' single cylinder method. Watch for either the intake or exhaust valve to be all the way in, then adjust the other valve. This way you only have to take one valve cover off at a time. This worked a lot better for me in the driveway than having to remove them all. The only hard one to do this way is the number 6 intake valve since its hidden behind the 5 cover and your reaching a long ways. It took me under an hour to do all the valves. This is also a good way to do it I think if you are someplace where the wind might pick up. It limits the amount of the valve train that is exposed to dirt/dust.
I left the decorative cover off the top of the motor. I like the look of the raw valve covers. I think it was also the source of an under hood rattle. The rear mounting bolt hardware was not original.
The truck runs a LOT better. It has a nice smooth idle, starts right up, and seems to be much smoother at all RPMs. I also think it brought the temps down a bit. The turbo seems to spool a little better ( I can't wait for something better! ) Its is also a lot quieter. I hope the mileage goes up too
I'll update.
If you have a 12V dodge 1st or 2nd gen don't hesitate to do the valves yourself. I did, and I regret it. Its very easy....no really. The only real special tool you need is a 22mm socket for the alternator bolt. Rolling the motor over is EASY...pure one hand thing. If you live somewhere close to Durango I would be more than happy to come over and help you do it the first time.
I left the decorative cover off the top of the motor. I like the look of the raw valve covers. I think it was also the source of an under hood rattle. The rear mounting bolt hardware was not original.
The truck runs a LOT better. It has a nice smooth idle, starts right up, and seems to be much smoother at all RPMs. I also think it brought the temps down a bit. The turbo seems to spool a little better ( I can't wait for something better! ) Its is also a lot quieter. I hope the mileage goes up too
I'll update. If you have a 12V dodge 1st or 2nd gen don't hesitate to do the valves yourself. I did, and I regret it. Its very easy....no really. The only real special tool you need is a 22mm socket for the alternator bolt. Rolling the motor over is EASY...pure one hand thing. If you live somewhere close to Durango I would be more than happy to come over and help you do it the first time.
dragogt
Adventurer
Finally finished reading this, seriously good looking truck..
Also if you want to play w/ that cummins a little bit www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp has a couple good write ups...
Also if you want to play w/ that cummins a little bit www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp has a couple good write ups...
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Thank you.
I hope it will look a lot better when I get some paint over new bodywork. I'm pretty sure I am going to do a medium 'pepsi' blue metallic. The truck was originally close to this color. I will then be painting the bumpers and wheels a medium to light gray/silver as an accent color. I may also have some HD chip resistant 3M vinyl rockers made for the truck with some 'sponsor' type monochrome decals in a matching color. I think that will make the truck look pretty good without going over the top.
I could definitely work on this truck forever and still never run out of little things to change, make better, or modify.....
I hope it will look a lot better when I get some paint over new bodywork. I'm pretty sure I am going to do a medium 'pepsi' blue metallic. The truck was originally close to this color. I will then be painting the bumpers and wheels a medium to light gray/silver as an accent color. I may also have some HD chip resistant 3M vinyl rockers made for the truck with some 'sponsor' type monochrome decals in a matching color. I think that will make the truck look pretty good without going over the top.
I could definitely work on this truck forever and still never run out of little things to change, make better, or modify.....
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I was just looking at ordering one. I might call the nearest cummins place too. I think there is one down in Farmington. I need to do some low pressure piston pump shopping too
I also made sure the fuel pin wasn't sticking and rode up and down on the fuel cone. I had to use some penetrating lube to get it to work right. I also removed the white spacer from under the fuel cone. This gave me a little more travel before the fuel pin bottoms out in the AFC. I need to check the marks on the cone tomorrow to see how close to full travel I got it.
While I am in there I will back out the hi-idle screw till just before the throttle bottoms out internally.
I'm pretty sure I am going to order a Glowshift 3 in 1 gauge soon too. It will read boost, EGT, and fuel pressure (I hope). I don't know if the resolution on the digital pressure gauge will be low enough for the diaphragm fuel pump...but I should be ok when I get the low pressure piston pump. I think I am going to try and make a fiberglass gauge pod for the A-pillar with the gauge tucked really close to the dash.
I also need to get rid of this dang big exhaust housing on the turbo. Its killing me since I live at 7000ft. I'm leaning toward replacing the factory turbo with the 2004.5-2007 Dodge he351cw turbo. Those are suppose to be REALLY nice on a 1st gen VE Cummins.
body and paint first though....I need to get that done this summer!
I also made sure the fuel pin wasn't sticking and rode up and down on the fuel cone. I had to use some penetrating lube to get it to work right. I also removed the white spacer from under the fuel cone. This gave me a little more travel before the fuel pin bottoms out in the AFC. I need to check the marks on the cone tomorrow to see how close to full travel I got it.
While I am in there I will back out the hi-idle screw till just before the throttle bottoms out internally.
I'm pretty sure I am going to order a Glowshift 3 in 1 gauge soon too. It will read boost, EGT, and fuel pressure (I hope). I don't know if the resolution on the digital pressure gauge will be low enough for the diaphragm fuel pump...but I should be ok when I get the low pressure piston pump. I think I am going to try and make a fiberglass gauge pod for the A-pillar with the gauge tucked really close to the dash.
I also need to get rid of this dang big exhaust housing on the turbo. Its killing me since I live at 7000ft. I'm leaning toward replacing the factory turbo with the 2004.5-2007 Dodge he351cw turbo. Those are suppose to be REALLY nice on a 1st gen VE Cummins.
body and paint first though....I need to get that done this summer!
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Tis the season......for bodywork!
I got most all the bed-liner, paint, and old body filler off the drivers side fender. I think this fender will be the hardest, so I started on it. I found that a twisted wire brush on the grinder works the best for taking stuff off metal. It doesn't heat the metal up nearly as much as a fine wire brush I tried first. The twisted brush strips everything off in a hurry. What doesn't come off is REALLY stuck on the metal. Depending on how the body comes out after the hammer/dolly work, grinding, welding, and shrinking I might have a bare metal fender. I hope I don't have to do this on the entire truck...but if I have to I have to.
I have a set of affordable hammers and dollies coming in the mail, they should be here tomorrow afternoon. Depending on how it goes I may also order a uni-spotter. These really help for pulling stuff out that you can't get to the back side. Low stuff isn't as big a deal as high stuff IMOO. I'm not afraid to use a little body filler if I have to. This is work truck after all.
This should be an interesting part of the build.......
I two existing problems and then all the fender modifications to deal with. You can see a large dent in the upper left of the fender. This was hidden under some old body filler. The second is a flattening of the fender lip at about 10 o-clock in the wheel well opening. This was also under some body filler. In addition there was a small dent in the forward edge of the fender near the grill shell, I already pounded on this and most of it came out. That was all the existing character before I cut the fender apart for the sectioning modification. All that still need to be finish welded, ground down, and flattened. That will be the most interesting part.
Here is the fender I stated with.....well see how it turns out.
I got most all the bed-liner, paint, and old body filler off the drivers side fender. I think this fender will be the hardest, so I started on it. I found that a twisted wire brush on the grinder works the best for taking stuff off metal. It doesn't heat the metal up nearly as much as a fine wire brush I tried first. The twisted brush strips everything off in a hurry. What doesn't come off is REALLY stuck on the metal. Depending on how the body comes out after the hammer/dolly work, grinding, welding, and shrinking I might have a bare metal fender. I hope I don't have to do this on the entire truck...but if I have to I have to.
I have a set of affordable hammers and dollies coming in the mail, they should be here tomorrow afternoon. Depending on how it goes I may also order a uni-spotter. These really help for pulling stuff out that you can't get to the back side. Low stuff isn't as big a deal as high stuff IMOO. I'm not afraid to use a little body filler if I have to. This is work truck after all.
This should be an interesting part of the build.......
I two existing problems and then all the fender modifications to deal with. You can see a large dent in the upper left of the fender. This was hidden under some old body filler. The second is a flattening of the fender lip at about 10 o-clock in the wheel well opening. This was also under some body filler. In addition there was a small dent in the forward edge of the fender near the grill shell, I already pounded on this and most of it came out. That was all the existing character before I cut the fender apart for the sectioning modification. All that still need to be finish welded, ground down, and flattened. That will be the most interesting part.
Here is the fender I stated with.....well see how it turns out.
Attachments
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Oh yeah.....
Last night I also turned out the high idle screw. I knocked off the tamper-proof collar with a screwdriver. Then loosened up the double nut. I backed the screw out and checked to see if the pump was binding/stopping internally. My pump didn't bind, all all suppose to be a bit different however so always check. I then used a section of steel tube to mash the throttle pedal down to the mat. I then checked to see if I could use my new found throttle travel. My linkage bottomed out, even with the throttle ball relocation, before the throttle arm on the pump did. I did however gain a decent amount to travel. I have adjusted the throttle to the maximum travel I can get stock. I would need to shorten the throttle cable at the pedal in the cab to get more travel. I will make something to do this down the road.
I tested it on the way to work this morning....
OH BOY did it make a difference! My engine doesn't seem to defuel as rapidly now and can turn a fair bit more RPMs. It still does flatten out when the governer hits. I will be adding the 3200rpm spring soon, this was a good improvement by itself however. It really closed up the gap between 2nd-3rd-4th.
Highly recommended for manual transmission 1st gen dodge truck. Its free other than you need 2-10mm wrenches, flathead screwdriver, and a small hammer. It took me about 15 minutes at most.
Last night I also turned out the high idle screw. I knocked off the tamper-proof collar with a screwdriver. Then loosened up the double nut. I backed the screw out and checked to see if the pump was binding/stopping internally. My pump didn't bind, all all suppose to be a bit different however so always check. I then used a section of steel tube to mash the throttle pedal down to the mat. I then checked to see if I could use my new found throttle travel. My linkage bottomed out, even with the throttle ball relocation, before the throttle arm on the pump did. I did however gain a decent amount to travel. I have adjusted the throttle to the maximum travel I can get stock. I would need to shorten the throttle cable at the pedal in the cab to get more travel. I will make something to do this down the road.
I tested it on the way to work this morning....
OH BOY did it make a difference! My engine doesn't seem to defuel as rapidly now and can turn a fair bit more RPMs. It still does flatten out when the governer hits. I will be adding the 3200rpm spring soon, this was a good improvement by itself however. It really closed up the gap between 2nd-3rd-4th.
Highly recommended for manual transmission 1st gen dodge truck. Its free other than you need 2-10mm wrenches, flathead screwdriver, and a small hammer. It took me about 15 minutes at most.
lstzephyr
wanderer
The sheet metal on these trucks is pretty thick so I'd recommend having a torch around to anneal it. I ran out of interest and violence before I ran out of dents.:elkgrin: Looking good.
Have you thought about bumping the pump timing an 1/8th inch? I'm considering doing that but I haven't decided.
Have you thought about bumping the pump timing an 1/8th inch? I'm considering doing that but I haven't decided.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I just ordered a set of metric S-wrenches the other day just in case I want to bump the timing. Living over 7000ft I need all the low end help I can get so I may do this later when I get a super quick spooling turbo instead of my stock lag-o-matic
There is also a dynamic timing spacer from M&H now that is suppose to allow a broader dynamic timing window. Basically adds high end timing without loosing the low end timing.
These trucks are so much fun to play with.
I spent the evening sanding down the high spots on the butt-welds from the fender stretch. I have a few pinholes where I missed welding that I need to fill tomorrow. I ran out of daylight. Its probably good I don't have a place to work inside at home anymore. I would never sleep (j/k I would LOVE to have a shop!)
When I make some progress I will post up some more pics....
There is also a dynamic timing spacer from M&H now that is suppose to allow a broader dynamic timing window. Basically adds high end timing without loosing the low end timing.
These trucks are so much fun to play with.
I spent the evening sanding down the high spots on the butt-welds from the fender stretch. I have a few pinholes where I missed welding that I need to fill tomorrow. I ran out of daylight. Its probably good I don't have a place to work inside at home anymore. I would never sleep (j/k I would LOVE to have a shop!)
When I make some progress I will post up some more pics....