Project: Doitall Dodge

[Rot Box]

I am still considering what locker to install. I have a lead on that eaton no-spin which would be next to nothing. I don't know if I want a detroit style diff or not. If its cheap enough I can always try it and if I don't like it change it in the future.

You could run the No-Spin with the Eaton shafts, but why downgrade to a course 10 spline? I think the Eaton HO72's are cool in the fact that they have a drop out third member, removable rear cover, large R&P and are tons lighter than the 14 bolt that replaced it. Not sure on housing strenght, but it might be worth using the whole axle. In the long run you could just upgrade to 14 bolt shafts and the Detroit side gears and have a 35 spl. Eaton. Might get a few double takes with that under a Dodge :coffeedrink:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=771317&highlight=eaton

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=752599&highlight=eaton

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=746415&highlight=eaton

 

[Rot Box]

Heck, I can always just weld up the open carrier for a bit? I should just pony up and buy ARBs for it front and back but that might require a reckless night with to much sippin' Tequila and the credit card.

I'm not against welded diffs, but with the wieght of those tires and a shell packed with gear it is going to be brutal at best

 

[Metcalf]

I thought about going the eaton route. The biggest downside is the width. They are a little narrower than even the stock rear axle. You can make some SRW 14-bolt hubs work on an eaton rear end but it takes some machine work on the spindles. The bearings for the eaton rear ends are also getting to be pretty rare and/or expensive. Not that they go out that often, but if they did in the middle of nowhere you might be up a creek.

The eaton should have 17 spline shafts if I remember right, and I haven't heard of too many people breaking those...so is it really that big of a deal changing from the 30 spline 14-bolt stuff?? The only reason why I would run the eaton shafts and locker is for the cost aspect....I might be able to get them for like $50 locally. Again...don't know if I want a detroit in the back but for that kind of cost it might be worth the test.

The 14-bolt stuff is a dime a dozen. Parts are also super easy to find. They are also 67" wide which is perfect for my truck. The only real cost I am going to have in the thing is the 1410 yoke.

 

[mopowa]

sweet project

Heard of this project going on through dieseltruckresource.com, thought i'd register here and watch your progress. Props on all the hard work you've put into that ole girl, cant wait to see the finished result.

Cheers

 

[BlueBomber]

. The bearings for the eaton rear ends are also getting to be pretty rare and/or expensive. Not that they go out that often, but if they did in the middle of nowhere you might be up a creek.

you could buy a couple and keep one in the truck with you. The pics of your worked fenders look great. Does the rear look like you need tubs?

 

[Metcalf]

The eaton bearing is like $250 a pop last time I checked. They are great rear ends, but I don't really see a huge advantage over the 14-bolt. Width being the biggest disadvantage vs the 14-bolt.

Yes. It looks like the rear wheel tubs are going to need to be pushed toward the center of the truck a bit. I may go all the way to the frame and then have enough room to outboard the shocks with some kind of hoop tucked into the tub.

Sadly not much going on this week. I am trying to get ready for moab. I did stop and get some poster board to make templates for the inner fender sections.

 

[BlueBomber]

cool! I cant wait to see the fenders when they are done! are you going to try to make the rear tubs look "stock" too? it would be neat to see, but i dont want to make you work any harder than you planned.

 

[Metcalf]

I don't know what I am going to do with the rear tubs in the bed. Mine are pretty hammered an I am leaning toward just building some new ones. Depending on where I can cut them I may just add a section to them. Don't know for sure yet. I need to get the outer fenders done first, then I can do the tubs once I get the tires on and see how much room I need in the rear.

The bed of the truck is getting a sleeping/storage platform so you won't really be able to see the tubs....

 

[ntsqd]

Shave some weight, hang the bedsides on a simple structure and toss in one of those plastic bedliners, also supported by a/the simple structure?

This might be viable if carrying real weight (firewood, engines, etc.) isn't in the plan.

 

[Funrover]

Sweet rig!

 

[Metcalf]

Its a work truck. I regularly carry a 400 gallon water tank in the bed to fill the cistern at the house.

I do like the idea however! That would be trick.

 

[ntsqd]

Put the tank on a dedicated trailer?
:sombrero:

 

[Metcalf]

I have a trailer...but it has to carry the Willys...like to Moab this weekend!

Woo Hoo

 

[Metcalf]

Man, I don't want to sleep in a tent this weekend in Moab, I wish I had a way to sleep in the back of the truck comfortably for a little bit till I get the truck more finished....

I know. I'll built it after work today!

So after a $30 trip to home depot this is what I came up with. Keep in mind this was made in two hours! I think it will work just fine for the trip this weekend. The air bed is HUGE and will be SUPER comfortable!

There is plenty of room for two and gear. I just tossed some stuff in there for scale.

It hinges at the back, and though a little heavy, allows you to store larger things like the spare tire under it.

Super simple mounting hinge and location. I think the hinges and hardware where $10.

I will build in something else down the road. This will work fine for now.

Fun stuff....

 

[BlueBomber]

if i had a nice, covered truck bed, i know i would'nt want to sleep in a tent. the platform looks pretty good! how sturdy are the legs? if it was permanent, how would you change it?

P.S. your build is the reason I am on here everyday! thanks for all the updates!