Project Grand Expedition

WickedZJ

Adventurer
Hey guys! I just found this place and am sooo glad I did. I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. Power everything, 5.2L V8, Wilderness roof rack w/ 2- 6" Dayliters and a 3.5" F>R lift. It also has a LP D30 up front and a D35 in the back. I am planning on replacing the front axle with a HP D30 and the rear with a trussed and skid plated D44A from a 98 Grand. I am wanting to turn it into an expedition vehicale but have no idea where to start. I am planning on buying all new adjustable RE control arms and am trying to decide whether to add 1" spacers or get 4.5" lift springs. I plan on putting on 32" Maxxis Bighorns for tires and Cragar soft 8s. Please help me in getting my build planned out so it can be the best expedition rig I can make it.

Thanks in advance for the feedback.
 

FishPOET

Adventurer
IMG_1648zj.jpg


1996 ZJ
5.2
Clayton LAs
RE 4.5 springs
ACOS front & rear
33" MTRs
HP30 & 44a

Lots of ZJ info at nagca.com and mallcrawlin.com

I am trying to decide whether to add 1" spacers or get 4.5" lift springs. I plan on putting on 32" Maxxis Bighorns for tires and Cragar soft 8s.

IMHO 3.5" is about all the lift you want on short arms. Any more lift makes for noticeably steep control arm angles. These steep angles suck because they do not allow the suspension to work properly and make for a harsh ride.
 

WickedZJ

Adventurer
LOL I am on NAGCA to Fish Just figured with this type of offroading there maybe some different things I need to know in setting up my grand. Sounds like I need to get some 32's and just see if they fit and go from there tire wise.
 
M

modelbuilder

Guest
I put 32" MT's, 1.5" wheel spacers, and a 2.25" lift on my 05 Grand.

I also bought the super chips programmer so I can get a 20hp increase and a 20 Lb Torque increase.
 

slomatt

Adventurer
I'd recomend staying with a 32" tire for gas mileage and reliability reasons, and to aim for a ~3" lift with fender trimming to keep the COG low. I ran a 96 ZJ w/ 33" tires and a 3" lift for 6 years and was very happy with its performance.

- Matt
 

ox4mag

Explorer
I agree with everyone. Anything more than 3-3.5" significantly affects the geometry and the expense associated with the gains (cost-benefit) is, in my opinion, not worth it. I just put a 2" budget boost on my WK and fitted it with 265/70R17 tires (approx. 31.5") and despite some light fender rub which I'll correct this week with a grinder, it's perfect for my setup.

Keep in mind that for expedition and overland-type travel, it's not particularly about how high your lift is but rather how you drive the vehicle itself. Choose a lift and tire size that makes the most sense and consider upgrading the under-carriage protection to keep those vitals well protected.

Good luck and welcome!
 

WickedZJ

Adventurer
OK sounds like staying at 3.5" is the best bet. I have thought about trying to make a full belly skid or atleast as full of a belly skid as I can make. I appreciate the feed back. Any other advice to keep in mind for this type of build?
 

smbisig

Adventurer
I will give my thoughts about the D44a, ditch that idea and go with a real D44. the aluminum D44a that came in the later grands are not supported by the aftermarket. not sure if anyone make a true locker for them because of their reliability issues. your D35, in my opinion is stronger (- the clip) that the D44a.

steven b~
 

FishPOET

Adventurer
the aluminum D44a that came in the later grands are not supported by the aftermarket. not sure if anyone make a true locker for them because of their reliability issues.

There is very little aftermarket support for the 44a. It has nothing to do with reliability. For the manufacturers it is a numbers game. There just weren't enough 44a's produced.

If you have a 44a it can be trussed, polished and locked. It has been my experience (and pretty much the consensus on the grand forums) that the 44a is a much more reliable axle than the 35. Having said that if I was going to go through the trouble and expense of swapping in an axle on a grand to handle 33" tires I would swap in an 8.8. The 8.8 is stronger than both the 35 and the 44a and has much better aftermarket support.
 

smbisig

Adventurer
There is very little aftermarket support for the 44a. It has nothing to do with reliability. For the manufacturers it is a numbers game. There just weren't enough 44a's produced.

If you have a 44a it can be trussed, polished and locked. It has been my experience (and pretty much the consensus on the grand forums) that the 44a is a much more reliable axle than the 35. Having said that if I was going to go through the trouble and expense of swapping in an axle on a grand to handle 33" tires I would swap in an 8.8. The 8.8 is stronger than both the 35 and the 44a and has much better aftermarket support.

The D44a's are unreliable. The housing is strong, but the aluminum center section is not. The drawback is that they are a poorly made attempt at a light weight aluminum D44 housing. Their week point is the bearing caps, which I have see fail way too many times. That is why they are not supported by locker companies, just to much liability.

The Ford 8.8 in the later 95+ Explorers are a great axle, if done right. They came stock with 31 spline shafts and disc brakes. But, for overland expedition use, we come back to reliability. Like the D35, the Ford 8.8's have c-clips. This is your weakness, and a scary weakness if you ask me. Have you ever seen a c-clip go on the highway? Scary!

My ideal axle for your application would be a real Dana 44 ordered from Currie or Dynatrac with 35 spline shafts and an ARB. You would have Dana 60 shaft strength, with D44 clearance.

Thats my .02
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Ford 8.8 C-clips are not an issue.

The axle in general is large enough to support Jeep sized vehicles without worries.
 
Last edited:

ExpoMike

Well-known member
I agree, the Ford 8.8 C-clips are not an issue and if you get one with disc brakes, the rotor/mounting cage will hold the axle in place even if the C-clip failed, unlike a drum brake setup.
 

smbisig

Adventurer
I'm just speaking from experience. C-clips will go, and the shafts will come out even with the disc brakes.
 

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